B2650 Roof Blew OFF

[TORQUIN]

When I got my Kubota fiberglass canopy, my dealer told me to back the tractor onto the trailer, so as not to blow the canopy off.

Chris

 

[BryceSteiner]

I don't think this would be much of a problem to repair with the fiberglass resin, new nuts to put inside the cab roof. I would think this could be made sturdier than original.

 

[piper184]

You might be able to figure out a way to make a "T-nut" of sorts instead of the round rivnut. A bar of say 1/4" thick steel that will slide into the channel beyond the rivnut area, going both ways. Drill and tap the appropriate hole for the bolts. Then slide it in so that the hole is centered over the rivnut opening. The bar will distribute the forces over a wider area of the plastic. Even if it is only an inch in each direction it would be more support than that small rounded area.

Perhaps you could make it one long bar and slide it in from the end. Drill and tap the holes first to make sure they line up with the bolts. Then cut a slot at the end of the channel and slide it in. Once aligned properly figure out a way to secure it enough that it doesn't move while you put the roof back on.

Personally it looks like the manufacturer kinda cheeped out on the structure of the top, making it too light to do the job. If it will blow off on a trailer, it might do the same if left outside in a storm. Many products these days are just not as robust as they should be. I think you can fix this for way less than a replacement will cost, if you have the time and the skills. Buying a replacement is always the backup plan.

As backup plans go, I would probably always toss a strap over the roof when moving on a trailer and maybe even if it is parked outside with a storm coming.

Good luck with your repairs and please post pictures when complete.

 

[DieselBound]

When I've hauled my Kioti I've done so with it facing backwards.

Tractors aren't designed to go 60+mph. Not saying that folks can get away with doing so (and have for many years), but you have to think realistically about this. I bought a great utility trailer from a guy who decided that he wanted an enclosed trailer; he was hauling Model T cars and found that their tops didn't hold up too well at 60+ mph.

A smaller tractor is going to have smaller fasteners. Lids/roofs might be smaller on smaller tractors but not by a lot (all cabs need to be large enough to fit operators). They'll still be able to catch s significant amount of air.

Once the trauma settles down I'm sure the OP will be able to figure out a solution. Yes, sucks, but here we are...

 

[bordercollie]

Years ago, I saw a roof off of a JD cab laying on the side of the interstate ( West side of Texarkana) .

 

[5030]

My cabbed M9 has never lost it's roof and it gets trailered fairly often.

 

[Dustball]

I'd cut a small window in the plastic at each fastener location to allow the use of fender washers and lock nuts.

This is my first post as I just purchased a B2650 w/cab from an auction and am researching if I should trailer it with the tractor facing forward or backwards when I go to pick it up. Guess this thread answers my question.

 

[phk_xb]

Update, things move slow around here in the garage department. I tried the fibreglass route but could not get the fibreglass to stick to the roof. Any flexing of the plastic roof would pop the fibreglass off. I tried a two part epoxy that looked more promising but when installing the rivet nuts it popped the epoxy off. I did just read that the epoxy would not stick to polypropylene plastics, which I know now my roof is made out of PP and PE plastics. So knowing that my roof is made out of PP and PE plastic I just ordered a plastic welder gun/stapler to try that out along with some PP and PE welding rods. I’ll update my outcome with the plastic welding.

 

[5030]

When I strengthened my Riv-nuts in my roof and fixed the cracking, I used normal fiberglass resin and mat and it held just fine and still holds just fine today.