@#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting....

   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #31  
Nope. Maybe the diode is throwing you? There is a diode in twin cylinder harnesses between the ignition coils. When you turn the key off, there is a ground present on that wire. That kills the spark. The rest of the key positions nothing should be present. Power sends the CD in the coils to heaven...
You want battery voltage and a ground present at the carb solenoid in all positions but off. On rare occasions I find that go away when cranking, which isn't helpful at all.
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting....
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Nope. Maybe the diode is throwing you? There is a diode in twin cylinder harnesses between the ignition coils. When you turn the key off, there is a ground present on that wire. That kills the spark. The rest of the key positions nothing should be present. Power sends the CD in the coils to heaven...
You want battery voltage and a ground present at the carb solenoid in all positions but off. On rare occasions I find that go away when cranking, which isn't helpful at all.
Help a foggy old tired brain.... What is the CD? Do you mean Capacity Discharge?...

Think I found it....
 

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   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #34  
Help a foggy old tired brain.... What is the CD? Do you mean Capacity Discharge?...

Think I found it....
In this case the CD would be capacitive discharge. The older Briggs were inductve discharge but use a hall effect trigger for the spark discharge
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #35  
Still stubborn.... But it runs like a banshee once started....
Not meaning to be redundant but the starter is turning engine over reasonably fast isn't it? I have to ask because we are running out of possibilities and you did mention something earlier on about "resorting to jump box".
Look at parts breakdown for your engine to see if it has a compression release to ease starting. If it does I suggest adjusting valves. If and when you do adjust valves,be sure to follow instructions regarding whether exhaust valve is adjusted on compression or exhaust stroke,it makes a huge difference.
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #36  
Be very careful to get the exact instructions from Briggs for your specific engine before adjusting the valves. They may instruct you to be at a certain position before or after (can't remember which) TDC.
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting....
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Yes it has compression release.... Funny thing is after sitting for 24 hours from last run time, it started ok just fine today.... Still think its a fuel draw issue when carb fuel bowl is dry....
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #38  
If it starts fine when it has fuel, I wouldn't touch the valves.

I literally replaced the fuel line, fuel shutoff valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, tank grommet and pickup tube on my JD Z225 in addition to replacing the engine. And I made sure the vent hole in the gas tank cap was clear.

forgot...are you sure your choke is actually working. Part of my trouble was the choke didn't seem to be working when starting the engine. I converted it to a manual choke with a separate cable and it worked fine for a while.
 
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   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting....
  • Thread Starter
#39  
This has separate manual choke cable an its verified working..... Still think a small (pinhole) in fuel line and it has trouble drawing fuel becasue the pinhole reduces the amoun of vacuum fuel pump creates... Its those silly bubble showing up in fuel filter that keeps telling me this....
 
   / @#$%&* B&S. Hard Starting.... #40  
I like these $15 universal 12v fuel pumps.
Solder & heat shrink longer leads on it, lamp cord is fine. Put alligator clips on end (Harbor Freight, etc.). Remove fuel line going to carbs & plug it. Fuel line output side to carbs, inlet side fuel line down into your gas can. Clipped across battery, see how it does.
You'll see if it's a fuel delivery problem.
It's also handy for filling the gas tank.
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