Rotary Cutter Attachments
- Thread starter LMike
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dapper
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Mike, Welcome to TBN!
I have a 3008 bush hog and it is the 3pt type. I use it with a NH TN65 and have plenty of HP to mow with (except in very tall grass, but there are gears for that) This is all the mower I want on the back of the TN (about 1500#). Makes the tractor bit lite in the front end. Better with the bucket on, but I don't like to mow with the bucket on as it can get in the way (can take out a fence row in a hart beat LOL) . Your 4835 may be heaver in the front end than the TN, or maybe able to add weights. Most of my fields are fairly level to slightly rolling so no problem there. I think there is a lot of advantage to the pull type not putting the weight on the tractor when raised. Then again, pull type make for longer and wider turns as the unit is slightly longer. Have never pulled a "pull type" so I don't have much to compare to. I am sure some on here will have better comparison for you shortly. I will say that I am not all that happy with the cut of the BH3008. I find that, IMHO it doesn't cut near as smooth as a 7' single blade does. I for one would not do it again. Can't say it is a bad machine, it's not. I just expected it to have a better cut.
I have a 3008 bush hog and it is the 3pt type. I use it with a NH TN65 and have plenty of HP to mow with (except in very tall grass, but there are gears for that) This is all the mower I want on the back of the TN (about 1500#). Makes the tractor bit lite in the front end. Better with the bucket on, but I don't like to mow with the bucket on as it can get in the way (can take out a fence row in a hart beat LOL) . Your 4835 may be heaver in the front end than the TN, or maybe able to add weights. Most of my fields are fairly level to slightly rolling so no problem there. I think there is a lot of advantage to the pull type not putting the weight on the tractor when raised. Then again, pull type make for longer and wider turns as the unit is slightly longer. Have never pulled a "pull type" so I don't have much to compare to. I am sure some on here will have better comparison for you shortly. I will say that I am not all that happy with the cut of the BH3008. I find that, IMHO it doesn't cut near as smooth as a 7' single blade does. I for one would not do it again. Can't say it is a bad machine, it's not. I just expected it to have a better cut.
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Ken45101
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A three point is definitely better for backing into corners to cut or for following irregular paths (e.g. trails in the woods).
I thought a pull type would be better for uneven ground, but it doesn't really work out that way since it is further back from the tractor.
A pull type tends to be more expensive because of the lift mechanism and drive shaft joints.
The 3pt is easier to back up (I have some hills that I have to back down to mow).
The pull type is perhaps a little easier to hook up.
I have both a 6' 3pt (Woods MD72) and a 15' batwing pull type (BH 2515).
If I were buying one where both were the option, my preference would be the 3pt.
Ken
I thought a pull type would be better for uneven ground, but it doesn't really work out that way since it is further back from the tractor.
A pull type tends to be more expensive because of the lift mechanism and drive shaft joints.
The 3pt is easier to back up (I have some hills that I have to back down to mow).
The pull type is perhaps a little easier to hook up.
I have both a 6' 3pt (Woods MD72) and a 15' batwing pull type (BH 2515).
If I were buying one where both were the option, my preference would be the 3pt.
Ken
Missouri Pioneer
Gold Member
I wrestled with this decision several months ago. There are ardent supporters of each type and you can search earlier threads on this issue. I had decided that I wanted a heavy duty 7' unit with one gearbox and found an old Bush Hog 307, a model that could be either a pull type or a 3 pt. It weighs 1,700 pounds, well within the capacity of my tractor, but I just didn't want to lift that much on a regular basis, feeling it would be too hard on the machine.
Bottom line: I bought the 307 Bush Hog pull type and ended up spending more $$ than I had planned having it redone, but it turned out pretty well. I haven't used it yet and may not until next spring. I think it will work out fine, hope so.
Bottom line: I bought the 307 Bush Hog pull type and ended up spending more $$ than I had planned having it redone, but it turned out pretty well. I haven't used it yet and may not until next spring. I think it will work out fine, hope so.
boggen
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*ughs* pull type are a pain in rear. for backing up. if you ever delt with single axle trailer. you would understand, how fast they can change direction on you. and normally not the direction you want them to go.
3pt hitch, i would prefer, you can lift the hog up into the air. and back up on say thorn bushes.
yes 3pt hitch version are heavier. but majority of time i always see mention of wanting a FEL (front end loader) and bucket on. and if no FEL then front weights.
3pt hitch version, you are able to backup to edge of a lake / pond. or stream edge. to get things cut down. granted always use extreme caution near edges. but you do not have to worry as much about rear gauge wheel getting stuck. due to ability to keep bush hog lifted up on 3pt hitch. and keep the blades out of the mud / dirt.
personally prefer FEL and bucket on, due to most likely i am going to be in tall weeds, and in or around woods. and having the bucket down near the ground, allows me to catch tree limbs that have fallen or perhaps a stump. and or if my tires end up in small washout, more likely bucket will catch. before going further down into the washout.
another reason for me wanting FEL and bucket on. i tend to have a lot of hills. were i either need to back up onto. or back down hills say around a lake. and being able to use bucket if need be, to either push me up or pull me back up a hill can be nice.
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only reason why i have a pull type now, is because allis chalmers CA has a snap coupler vs 3pt hitch setup. it was cheaper for me to get pull type, vs paying extra to convert from snap coupler to 3pt hitch. that would then accept 3pt hitch attachments.
only other reason for myself to go for a pull type. would be for a RTV, and the bush hog has motor on it.
3pt hitch, i would prefer, you can lift the hog up into the air. and back up on say thorn bushes.
yes 3pt hitch version are heavier. but majority of time i always see mention of wanting a FEL (front end loader) and bucket on. and if no FEL then front weights.
3pt hitch version, you are able to backup to edge of a lake / pond. or stream edge. to get things cut down. granted always use extreme caution near edges. but you do not have to worry as much about rear gauge wheel getting stuck. due to ability to keep bush hog lifted up on 3pt hitch. and keep the blades out of the mud / dirt.
personally prefer FEL and bucket on, due to most likely i am going to be in tall weeds, and in or around woods. and having the bucket down near the ground, allows me to catch tree limbs that have fallen or perhaps a stump. and or if my tires end up in small washout, more likely bucket will catch. before going further down into the washout.
another reason for me wanting FEL and bucket on. i tend to have a lot of hills. were i either need to back up onto. or back down hills say around a lake. and being able to use bucket if need be, to either push me up or pull me back up a hill can be nice.
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only reason why i have a pull type now, is because allis chalmers CA has a snap coupler vs 3pt hitch setup. it was cheaper for me to get pull type, vs paying extra to convert from snap coupler to 3pt hitch. that would then accept 3pt hitch attachments.
only other reason for myself to go for a pull type. would be for a RTV, and the bush hog has motor on it.
Ken45101
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Perhaps you need to slow down? The key is to go slow enough so that you can make corrections before it gets out of control.
The only real difficulty that I have in backing up a single axle trailer is when it's behind my dually truck and I can't see it in the mirrors. Even then it can be done.
Ken
boggen
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Perhaps you need to slow down? The key is to go slow enough so that you can make corrections before it gets out of control.
The only real difficulty that I have in backing up a single axle trailer is when it's behind my dually truck and I can't see it in the mirrors. Even then it can be done.
Ken
it can be done, and slowing down to make more corrections helps just as you noted. but getting yourself in multi spots of uneven ground and more likely rutted areas as well. or getting hung up. it can be a rather pain to back up a pull type bush hog, do to it acts much like a single axle trailer.
not saying it can not be done, it can be time consuming with a pull type bush hog. vs just backing up with a 3pt bush hog that does not have a mind of its own, of which direction it might want to turn on you.
stravis
Gold Member
I've had both. Right now I have a flail and a 3pt brush hog. I'm in the market for a 10' pull type.
For me, the pull type has several advantages. Your tractor can handle a bigger mower with the pull type, typically. It's easier to mow closer to fences and trees with the pull type and it also corners better (less of the corner getting too sharp). Backing is no more difficult than backing a trailer, which hasn't ever been difficult to me. The advantage to that is that I can back it around a tight corner that I might not be able to get my tractor into (due to the length) with a 3pt. They don't swing out like a 3pt so you don't have to worry about it swinging into something (watch your inside corner, though). IMO, it's a better cut as well. It follows the contours of the ground better rather than going up when the front of the tractor starts into a dip.
Down side is that you have to watch the inside corner. When going across a significant mound or cresting a hill, you need to adjust the height slightly to avoid it bottoming out (although they bottom out less than a 3pt in my experience). Backs like a trailer, which is a problem for some. Requires a remote (two if it's a batwing). More maintenance as you have the lift hydraulics and tires to grease.
For me, the main advantage is the better cut and the added maneuverability.
For me, the pull type has several advantages. Your tractor can handle a bigger mower with the pull type, typically. It's easier to mow closer to fences and trees with the pull type and it also corners better (less of the corner getting too sharp). Backing is no more difficult than backing a trailer, which hasn't ever been difficult to me. The advantage to that is that I can back it around a tight corner that I might not be able to get my tractor into (due to the length) with a 3pt. They don't swing out like a 3pt so you don't have to worry about it swinging into something (watch your inside corner, though). IMO, it's a better cut as well. It follows the contours of the ground better rather than going up when the front of the tractor starts into a dip.
Down side is that you have to watch the inside corner. When going across a significant mound or cresting a hill, you need to adjust the height slightly to avoid it bottoming out (although they bottom out less than a 3pt in my experience). Backs like a trailer, which is a problem for some. Requires a remote (two if it's a batwing). More maintenance as you have the lift hydraulics and tires to grease.
For me, the main advantage is the better cut and the added maneuverability.
Thanks for all the replies, I just bought a new DS96 Woods pull type today, chains frt and rear, and airplane tires, mainly went with pull for less weight on tractor, have some pretty good hills in Barren Co., Ky and my wife enjoys bushhoging some.
Don't know if this is the right place to post this but for anyone interested, I purchased the bh at Big 3 Tractor in Bloomfield Ky. These guys saved me over a grand on this purchase against 6 other dealers from Louisville to Glasgow Ky., One dealer came within 350.00 of Big 3 but without the chains or air tires.
The way the economy is now, why these dealers still want to price gouge people is beyond me. I had almost given up on buying a new one til I ran across Big 3.
Don't know if this is the right place to post this but for anyone interested, I purchased the bh at Big 3 Tractor in Bloomfield Ky. These guys saved me over a grand on this purchase against 6 other dealers from Louisville to Glasgow Ky., One dealer came within 350.00 of Big 3 but without the chains or air tires.
The way the economy is now, why these dealers still want to price gouge people is beyond me. I had almost given up on buying a new one til I ran across Big 3.
Ken45101
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It could be as simple as the other dealers have had supplier price increases whereas where you bought yours has had it sitting there since before price increases.
At this time of year, some dealers may sell things at zero profit, or even a loss, so as to avoid carrying the inventory during the slow season. Selling at a loss isn't always a good idea.
Some dealers have higher overhead, more expensive real estate, or better customer service. Some dealers are cutting prices to stay in business, but they might not be there in another 6 months.
But yes, there are some dealers who feel they are elite and can charge more. Time will tell.
Ken