Attaching the Tractor to the Trailer

[John in the UP]

I typically trailer my JD3320 on a 20' PJ trailer about 300 miles one way to our property in the U.P. of Michigan.

For attaching points on the tractor, I have the largest size clevis that would fit through the existing holes in 4 locations. The working load of each clevis is more than twice the combined total weight of the tractor and implements.

If the trailer was here, I'd drive the tractor on it and take a couple of pix to post, but I'll try my best to explain how I secure the tractor to the trailer.

The front 2 clevis's are through the tractor frame, between the loader and the front tires. A third clevis is through the draw bar and the fourth is attached to one of the open holes for top-link pin on the grader blade.

On the front clevis's, 2 straps (one on each side) angle forward to the front corner d-rings. The strap attached to the draw bar angles back toward the rear corner d-rings. The strap attached to the grader blade angles forward (around the rear tractor tires) to the stake pockets in front of the trailer fenders.

I'm wondering if I'm using the "best" attaching points on the tractor. I have NOT had any issues with the load shifting (and I do encounter some bad road sections), but I haven't encountered any bad situations yet (and I hope to keep it that way).

What do you guy's think? What other attaching points on the tractor might I consider?

Thanks for your advice.

-John

 

[radman1]

Sounds good to me. I would guess the weak link in most tie down situations maybe the stake pockets. Most people use the stake pockets, including myself and the weld could be the weak link. Many use heavy chains, 4 binders, clevises etc. However, I have never heard of a stake pocket tearing loose. Fortunately, most of us never have the opportunity to test the stake pockets to their fullest.

 

[Willl]

I tie mine down like you do John. The only place I have second thoughts on would be the rear tie to the draw bar.

Often thought the better location would be straps around the rear axle tubes.

 

[John in the UP]

Thanks for the replies guys. Willl, the draw bar is what prompted me to ask in the first place, but I don't know where else to attach to...

I hadn't thought about the axle tubes, which are more like "housings" (i.e. much sturdier than a tube), but after looking at it, seems like theres a good chance the straps would be damaged and possibly cut through there.

Anyone else?

-John

 

[GeneD14]

Over the last 13 years I have trailered quite a few tractors and crawlers long distances and I have had to learn the hard way a few times. I used to use ratchet straps for most applications but I noticed that once in a while they would break or tear due to the load bouncing as the trailer went over a bump in the road. I have long since switched over to grade 70 transport chain and have had zero problems.

 

[Willl]

I do use chain all the way around.

But if I relocated the rear tie downs to the axle tube, I wouldn't want chain to gouge the casting.

The plan was to use short, wide straps with D-rings, then finish off with chain to the trailer.

 

[wkpoor]

Over the last 13 years I have trailered quite a few tractors and crawlers long distances and I have had to learn the hard way a few times. I used to use ratchet straps for most applications but I noticed that once in a while they would break or tear due to the load bouncing as the trailer went over a bump in the road. I have long since switched over to grade 70 transport chain and have had zero problems.

2 things I noticed in the picture have been pointed out to me in other forums concerning tie down. Eye bolts are not considered good points to pull from as their load is severely compromised at an angle. I too have used them in the past. Second thing is the using the railing on a landscape trailer. Welded D-rings are far more secure from the frame of the trailer.

 

[Charlie175]

Tractor in gear or out?

 

[wkpoor]

I like to bind the tractor out of gear and then after its all secure I put it in gear. That way I haven't loaded the tranny for the whole trip. I also set the brakes unless its a Deere because they have the park position on the gear shift.

 

[GeneD14]

2 things I noticed in the picture have been pointed out to me in other forums concerning tie down. Eye bolts are not considered good points to pull from as their load is severely compromised at an angle. I too have used them in the past. Second thing is the using the railing on a landscape trailer. Welded D-rings are far more secure from the frame of the trailer.

Thanks for your concern but: The chains are ran through welded on D-rings at each corner of the trailer. It's difficult to see them in that picture. Those are not I-bolts they are drop forged 5/8" lifting rings. I agree that pulling at an angle they can't carry the same load as pulling straight. Each lifting ring is rated at 5,200 so just on the front axle the combined strength of the 2 rings are 10,400 lbs on a straight pull. The front end of the tractor weights less than 1,700 lbs. so without getting out the slide rule to calculate the stress load at the exact angle I would say that it is safe as-is.

In the picture you may also notice that the binder handle wasn't tied up yet to prevent it from snapping open. That is the last thing that gets secured, usually with a heavy wire.

Here is a picture of type of welded D-rings on my trailer that I posted a few years ago:

 

[wkpoor]

Yeh the picture was such that I assumed you might have tied down to the railing. Good looking weld on the ring. The tractor club has someone making tie downs that attach to the tractors with implement bolts and makes for a super secure point to chain from. But they have to be custom made for each model. I too have just threaded in a forged eye bolt on the side on in the front to bind from. I got some concerns from others about that. Thats why I passed it along.

 

[Tim12659]

If I am hauling my tractor a short distance I secure it with 2 of the ratcheting straps...one around the front axle and one at the rear axle.
If long distance moving I have a piece of "ALL SCREW" that I fasten through the tow or hitch ball hole of the tractor and a hole in the trailor deck that I run the screw through...Tightening down at both ends with a nut with the plastic lining to prevent the nut from backing off. I recently pulled my 3186 Cub Cadey 500 miles with this method and a tie down at front axle as mentioned earlier. Works for me...

 

[Willl]

I have a piece of "ALL SCREW"

All by itself or along with the 'required' chaining ?

 

[atgreene]

The drawbar is one of the best tiedown points on any piece of equipment. It's low, easy to access and one of the strongest points on the tractor made for pulling.