Approaching first 50 hours

[Skeletor]

Like the title says I’m closing in on my first 50 hours on my 1725. I know they have changed the requirements of the first service. I’m not sure if I’m going to change the hydro fluid or not. The book said you used to have to but now you don’t. I’m thinking of changing the filter and at least cleaning out the suction screen tube. Stupid question but can I take the spin on filter and the suction tube out without all the fluid leaking out?

I have an oil filter and a fuel filter on hand already but I’ll have to order the spin on filter. Am I missing anything? Any recommendations? Thanks

 

[ray66v]

MF has finally joined the 21st century, and eliminated the 50 hr. oil change on the transmission? Good. The 50 hour was called for to remove debris from assembly. If they do their jobs properly, and clean everything before assembly, it's unnecessary.

There are also three different mechanisms to trap those debris and keep them from going anywhere. The sump, the suction screen, and the filter. So, it's not a concern. I offer the fact that aside from a manufacturing defect, (which MF didn't fully correct), on early GC's, there have been ZERO transmission problems as proof there are no justifiable concerns here.

If you would feel better pulling the suction screen, or inserting a magnet into the sump, you can. It would be best to have two people there when you pull the screen. One to hold their thumb over the hole, while the other cleans the screen.

Hydraulic fluid doesn't wear out under normal conditions. It can get contaminated. And, it can get overheated. If no dirt, or water get in it, and you don't have some sort of incident where it gets cooked, it's good to go.

The two most important things to look for at 50hrs, are missed grease fittings, and hose rubs. Both will find you, if you don't find them first.

Dealers are notorious for missing grease fittings during initial prep, and MF is good at not making sure hoses are not rubbing on things.

Good luck with your tractor.

 

[WranglerX]

Some people have advocated using suction of shop vac to hold negative pressure in HST case so when they just change filter and clean screen they have minimal loss of hydraulic fluids... Seem reasonable as a concept, but have not tried it yet.... I think my dealer sort of got to me on my 50 hour as they changed the hydraulic fluids when rereading owners manual it only say it needs to be done at the 250 hour mark... Also having to get appointment at dealership and either having to transport tractor to dealership or having them come get it, is a PIA... Think 250 hour is going to be done onsite by myself (once I figure out how to catch about 4 gallons of hydraulic fluids) or have a "mobile service" come to me....

Also CHECK all areas of where shop has worked.... I think they had "shop rat" (heyboy) do the work on mine as they did not tighten the lug nuts on wheel properly after removing/replacing HST filter screen...

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

The shopvac trick works amazingly well.... you'll only loose what is in the filter plus a few drops.... that's it!

I have done it 3 times now, works every time.

 

[WranglerX]

If you are going to do your own (DIY) filter & fluids change be aware there is a couple of online sources for filter kits.... Seems there are at least two, one for just engine (Oil & Air filter & Fuel) ) and one for "everyting"... Links are somewhere in this forum....

 

[hube2]

MF Maintenance Package for Filters & Fluids

I'm 15 hours out from my first 50 hr service on my GC1723EB. Wondering if anyplace sells a package deal that includes all the filters and stuff for a the recommended service. Like engine oil filter, air filters, fuel filters, and transmission filters. I don't think the transmission is listed...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Skeletor]

Oh should I change the front dif fluid? If ah what do you guys recommend?

 

[ray66v]

The highest level of protection you can get, would be synthetic "EP" designated, gear lube.

Yes, it's overkill. But, it's two quarts, so it's not a big expense.

80-90w range should be fine. No, it's not really thinker than the transmission oil. Gear lube is not measured on the same scale.

You would also be fine with regular EP gear lube, or your hydraulic transmission oil.

 

[5030]

First thing I do when I get a new FWA tractor is drop the front axle and outboard fluid and replace it with 85-140 gear oil. Not that I've bought a new one in decades because I have not and the FWA gear oil gets changed every 2 years when I change the transmission fluid and filters but then I use both of my units for running hay. I can crank out 50 hours in week easy.

Gear oil provides a much better shock load capability than transmission fluid, whatever you tractor uses. Other than replacing one set of kingpin bushings at around 6000 meter hours, I've had zero issues with either of the FWA axles.

 

[WranglerX]

Excuse me but could you explain more, the manual says front diff and gear boxes use same as HST... The MF recommended HST oil is a blend, part synthetic and dino oils and rated as a 10w30.... Not sure how that equates to 85-90W "gear lube"...

 

[ray66v]

Excuse me but could you explain more, the manual says front diff and gear boxes use same as HST... The MF recommended HST oil is a blend, part synthetic and dino oils and rated as a 10w30.... Not sure how that equates to 85-90W "gear lube"...

Again, gear oil is rated on a completely different scale, than crankcase oil.

Most people make the incorrect assumption gear oil is heavier, given the higher weight numbers. That's not automatically true.

The other thing most people don't understand is, the actual viscosity of oils vary a lot, even though they are sold as the same weight. That means two different quarts of 30w oil, can, and often do, have quite different viscosities.

80w gear oil, is in fact, about the same viscosity as a 30w motor oil, >at normal temperatures<.

So, the actual viscosity difference between a given 85-90w gear oil, (which is about all your normally going to be able to find), and most brands of hydraulic transmission oil, is negligible.

The Kubota UDT fluid is an exception, because it's on the thin side. But, the rest seem to all be about the same as Permatran, last time I checked.

Both the 80w gear oil, and the hydraulic transmission oil, are light weight gear oil. The rest of the additives are what makes them different.

In some applications, 30w motor oil, hydraulic transmission oil, and 80w gear, are interchangeable, because they are all about the same viscosity.

My older zero turn mower originally simply used 30w motor oil in the hydraulic drives. Now, since there are multi viscosity hydraulic fluids made especially for these mowers, I have switched it to a 20w-50 hydraulic oil. But, it worked fine on the motor oil.

The hydraulic oil will work fine in your front axle. It's designed to be able to do that. It has also additives to do other things like make your wet brakes work well.

But, extreme pressure gear oil is specifically designed to be able to handle higher levels of pressures. And, hypoid gears, (like in your front drive), do create high pressures.

So, your highest level of protection would be to use a synthetic EP gear oil, in the front axle.

 

[Skeletor]

I haven’t changed the front axle oil yet. If I go with gear oil can it have the limited slip additive in it? I was killing time at Walmart waiting for my kid and they had this stuff. I didn’t get it yet because I wanted to make sure.any thoughts?

Valvoline FlexFill Full Synthetic SAE 75W-90 Gear Oil 1 QT Pouch https://a.co/d/7MJ2OjQ

 

[DMW]

The Valvoline is fine, but does require 4 quarts for a full front axle fluid change.

 

[ray66v]

The Valvoline is fine, but does require 4 quarts for a full front axle fluid change.

I don't remember it taking four, but it has been 14 years.

I stand corrected.