555 no fuel at injectors

[rdwyer]

Finally got enough progress to get the 555 to turn over, but it will only fire on ether. Opened the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter and fuel dribbles out without air bubbles. I opened the bleed valve on the pump circled in red on the screenshot and it squirts out decently when cranking over. Nothing at the injectors though after a lot of cranking.

What is the next logical thing to test?

Supposedly this thing ran just fine in October of last year.

A few disclaimers…

1- I have not yet swapped the fuel filter…don’t know how old this one is.

2- It’s been consistently cold here with temps rarely getting above freezing for a few weeks…often into single digits at night.

Next time I’m there I’ll do the filter. If I’m getting fluid at the 2 bleed points I mentioned, could it still be the filter?

Could frozen water in the diesel be the culprit?…if so, where?…In the lines running to the injectors?….in the pump itself?

Thanks for any assistance.

 

[AntiqueIron]

I’d suspect gelled fuel. Wait for it to warm up a little- upper 20s should suffice. Carefully warming the system with a torch could work too- be gentle and make sure you have no leaks!

You need to add conditioner to diesel fuel in cold weather to run the engine.

 

[rdwyer]

I’d suspect gelled fuel. Wait for it to warm up a little- upper 20s should suffice. Carefully warming the system with a torch could work too- be gentle and make sure you have no leaks!

You need to add conditioner to diesel fuel in cold weather to run the engine.

Thanks. Unfortunately it’s going to only get colder and I’ve got to have the machine off his property soon. I’ve got a shop manual coming soon that I hope will assist in troubleshooting the fuel system.

 

[AntiqueIron]

I’m assuming the machine was simply parked and now won’t restart?

Is the shutdown stuck?

 

[rdwyer]

I’m assuming the machine was simply parked and now won’t restart?

Is the shutdown stuck?

No. It’s all the way forward on the pump. If I take that pump off and open it up to inspect it, how do I mark it in a way that will allow me to put it back together without messing up the timing?

 

[alexpops]

I would change the filter first & add some power service 911 to the tank & a shot in the filter before taking the injector pump apart. does it have glow plugs that work?

 

[rdwyer]

I don’t believe it has glow plugs. I can put a heat gun on it. Waiting for the shop manual as I have to believe that will have a logical procedure to troubleshoot no fluid at the injectors.

 

[careyo63]

Either's not good on a diesel! You can get it to fire so the Eng. not locked up. IMHO don't use it. Compression Check them would be a good thing to know. Fuel Filter, Clean Fuel and my guess it runs. If you look where you have the Red Circle in the Pic.. Next to that where it's located the Fuel line could be sucking air. One side of the Rubber line is clamped but not the other end No Clamp? which may be a leak before the pump. That would be what to look for etc..

 

[EddieWalker]

Do you have a glass bowl on the fuel pump? On my 1998 555E there is a filter inside the fuel line where it goes into the fuel pump that gets plugged up. It's also a good idea to remove the glass bowl and clean everything inside there with brake cleaner. I just spray a can on everything until it's clean.

Be sure to fill the fuel filter with diesel when you install it.

When I've run out of fuel I have to loosen the lines for all four injectors and then I hand pump it until all four have fuel coming out of them. Only then will it start back up for me.

I've never messed with it when it's cold out. If you are getting fuel to some of the injectors, odds are good that the injector pump is fine.

The fuel pump on mine has gone out just about every four to five years. They are cheap on Amazon or Messicks. I haven't noticed a difference between OEM and Aftermarket.

 

[rdwyer]

Either's not good on a diesel! You can get it to fire so the Eng. not locked up. IMHO don't use it. Compression Check them would be a good thing to know. Fuel Filter, Clean Fuel and my guess it runs. If you look where you have the Red Circle in the Pic.. Next to that where it's located the Fuel line could be sucking air. One side of the Rubber line is clamped but not the other end No Clamp? which may be a leak before the pump. That would be what to look for etc..

Thanks. I’ll add the clamp to the other side and replace the filter. I’m thinking of running it on an e herbal tank with new fuel as well. Won’t get back down there until early next week. Manual comes tomorrow.

 

[AntiqueIron]

No. It’s all the way forward on the pump. If I take that pump off and open it up to inspect it, how do I mark it in a way that will allow me to put it back together without messing up the timing?

You should be able to pull the rack cover off the top of the pump without removing the pump or disturbing timing. You could check and make sure it’s all clean and moving freely inside but I think some anti gel would probably solve the issue.

 

[rdwyer]

You should be able to pull the rack cover off the top of the pump without removing the pump or disturbing timing. You could check and make sure it’s all clean and moving freely inside but I think some anti gel would probably solve the issue.

Excellent info! I’ll give this a try. Thanks.

 

[TractorTech]

If the pump top has not been disturbed since it was last running, I would say the shutoof rack is not the problem.
I would wager that there is enough gunk in the pump from age and your cold weather to cause the pistons that cause the high pressure charge to be stuck. As suggested, warm the pump with a torch to see if it will pump to the injector lines.
The missing clamp is not a problem as that is a return to filter.
It has a thermostart manifold heater in the front of the intake manifold that you could apply power directly if it isn't working off of the ignition switch, but you need fuel to the injectors before you worry about that.

Was it a victim of fire since October? I have not followed the story up until now.

 

[rdwyer]

No fire. I was told they last ran it in October/November and now they have a much newer unit on site so they don’t need this one. Is there a way to prime the injectors without turning the engine over?…some sort of manual method? It’s very cold here and turn the motor over constantly is tough on the battery and starter.

 

[careyo63]

You most likely have a fuel problem! We can see that! Mentioned the possible missing clamp doesn't mean that was the problem. If it sits Vacuum can suck air in it. Rule out #1 compression. You was using either to get it to fire was a indication of being low. Now could be possible No compression after using the either ?. Which is well known to cause problems on a diesel Eng.. Go through all the lines and replace the High degree Ghetto Job!! No doubt about that now. Doesn't take a genius to see that. Replace the lines and Chk. the compression If it has any now..

 

[TractorTech]

No fire. I was told they last ran it in October/November and now they have a much newer unit on site so they don’t need this one. Is there a way to prime the injectors without turning the engine over?…some sort of manual method? It’s very cold here and turn the motor over constantly is tough on the battery and starter.

No, there is no way to get the injectors primed without the injection pump turning over. The starter will be fine, but you just need to go in short 20 second tries. Your battery cables are nice and heavy; good for transferring needed amps.
One thing to do as well when priming is to open up the throttle fully.

 

[careyo63]

No fuel or No compression. Or both. Why?. Cold start My org Diesel 1/4 throttle rain or shine hot or cold. The Motor spins slow when it cold. You have to keep a full Chrg. on the battery. But I'm in Ga. so not much of a problem. Old Org. 77 model and use a Thermal warmer to heat the intake up. Old school! I keep the gas ford for that in the winter. You have a problem there also. Notorious plus a compression release also. I hold my Valves open to get the motor spinning fast! Works like champ!

 

[rdwyer]

I’ll test compression down the road. It’s not getting a drop of fuel at the injectors so that’s the immediate apparent reason why it’s not starting. I’ll go Wednesday when it’s supposed to get above freezing here. I’ll put a torpedo heater pointed at the fuel pump area to see if the problem is something as simple as frozen water. New filter in hand.

 

[careyo63]

Good! you understand what we are saying to do. Auto store should have a gauge. Rent or borrow even. Worst case with a deposit and then unscrew the Injector at the head. Should able to use that port as a Spark plug and Chk. it. With all the fuel problems I'm guessing it's low or No.. Diesel lubricates the Cyl. Low lean or even No fuel causes that! Ring wear. And look for fuel with the INj. out. No spray no fuel

 

[TractorTech]

Good! you understand what we are saying to do. Auto store should have a gauge. Rent or borrow even. Worst case with a deposit and then unscrew the Injector at the head. Should able to use that port as a Spark plug and Chk. it. With all the fuel problems I'm guessing it's low or No.. Diesel lubricates the Cyl. Low lean or even No fuel causes that! Ring wear. And look for fuel with the INj. out. No spray no fuel

Finding a compression tester for a diesel, especially a Ford tractor diesel, to rent will be next to impossible. There are no "spark plug" type holes in this head! The adapter for the injector is available, but not readily. He doesn't need to remove the injectors to see if fuel is getting to the injectors.
In those temps and the fact that there is no fuel at the injectors, he'll be lucky to get the system bled. Just because he fired it off with ether, doesn't mean it is ruined or low on compression. Old Ford tractors with the BSD engine, like this one, will run or fire, but they need fuel to the injector. One thing at a time.

I have a hard enough time starting my Fords in Southern California mountain weather, but the lows hardly ever get to single digits.