Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[woodlandfarms]

My top link is 1 in thick. Just cut and drill two pieces of 1/2 and weld together. or have your welder make up something like mine with some extra holes.

Cool. Good idea

 

[ponytug]

Dear Carl,

Perhaps I missed something, but why not cut the old fitting off and use your old one?

All the best,

Peter

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have. This will be the 4th one I have replaced. Terry basically said that the 1850 is a mower first then a tractor 2nd. Meaning that the 65 HP engine, 4000lbs of tractor weight are mis matched with the anemic lifting capabilities. I got the sense that I am not the only 1850 owner who has this issue. But that was never said outright. And I am pretty abusive of this tractor.

My biggest concern is that i put this on then damage something really expensive.

 

[ponytug]

You raise a good point. Shear pins get designed in for a reason. Perhaps this is your version of a shear pin. Why not get a couple of top links made, but made to the existing strength? You know that they break first, and you won't break something else, potentially much more expensive. If you beef it up too much, you are just passing the force elsewhere to something that may (will?) be harder to fix.

Just a thought.

All the best,

Peter

I have. This will be the 4th one I have replaced. Terry basically said that the 1850 is a mower first then a tractor 2nd. Meaning that the 65 HP engine, 4000lbs of tractor weight are mis matched with the anemic lifting capabilities. I got the sense that I am not the only 1850 owner who has this issue. But that was never said outright. And I am pretty abusive of this tractor.

My biggest concern is that i put this on then damage something really expensive.

 

[J_J]

If you guys look at post #6 close. you will see that is about the weakest link in the setup, and was not designed to fail. Nobody would design something to fail first. You build it to last. PT happened to chose a weak joint, and this has been further compounded by several weldings, maybe not so good . You don't even need a swivel joint for the rollover link. About the only place that you see that is on the 3pt, and then then you can tighten up on the side links to steady the load. You do not want something to break when you have that expensive machinery you are trying to move, or that load of wet clay, etc. especially working around people.

If you are going to use the same rollover link, at least add two 1/2 thick by 2 in wide steel about 6 in long. along side the shaft, with holes drilled out.

If you want strength, do this. Find some DOM tubing with an inside diameter of 3/4, with a wall thickness of 1/4. Cut it to the width of the inside legs, about 2 in. Find some steel the length you need, and 2 in wide, either 3/4 or 1 in thick, or two 1/2 steel pieces. Cut a 1 1/4 in hole in the steel at each end and weld in the DOM tubing, then drill for a grease fitting. Then you can be satisfied that something else will break before this rollover link.

 

[BobRip]

When I was greasing my rollover arms today, I noticed grease coming out between the rollover arms just inside the weld. Looks like the tube is cracked. The outside welds look good. Should I.

1. Continue to enjoy and use the PT and wait for it to fully fail.
2. Put in a new rollover arm assembly.
3. Weld some plates between the arms to strengthen it.
4. Something else.

 

[MossRoad]

Can you get a picture, Bob?

 

[BobRip]

Can you get a picture, Bob?

Can't find the camera, but borrowed nephews. See attached. The break is on the left side between the two arms. You can see a little grease oozing out. It looks like I could weld a plate between the two arms and strengthen this.

 

[J_J]

Bob,

It remember someone else replaced their rollover link with a newer assembly, that was had a thicker center and wall thickness.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

It remember someone else replaced their rollover link with a newer assembly, that was had a thicker center and wall thickness.

That would be best, I am sure. It looks like you have to do a lot of grinding of welds to remove it. Is this correct?

 

[J_J]

Yes, that is true also if you want to grind out the weld and give it another couple of passes. or cut the complete unit out and replace the inside shaft and rollover unit. I uses a metal cutting blade and cut both sides by the lift arms, and I also set my pants on fire from the sparks.

 

[BobRip]

Yes, that is true also if you want to grind out the weld and give it another couple of passes. or cut the complete unit out and replace the inside shaft and rollover unit. I uses a metal cutting blade and cut both sides by the lift arms, and I also set my pants on fire from the sparks.

It's not the weld that's broken, but the tube right next to the weld. If I weld it is there a chance that the outer tube would weld to the inner tube and then it would not rotate. I guess this is the way it works (outer tube with arms, inner tube welded to lift arms.) This is one reason I suggest welding the roll over arms together with a plate.

 

[J_J]

Here is some data from the search mode.

Broken pin and rollover tube

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...3103d1124155900-lift-arms-714722-mvc-350f.jpg

New assembly, stronger

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d1124190377-lift-arms-714877-rollover-pin.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/34740-pt-425-pros-cons-13.html#post580491

post #129

 

[Clarke]

When I was greasing my rollover arms today, I noticed grease coming out between the rollover arms just inside the weld. Looks like the tube is cracked. The outside welds look good. Should I.

1. Continue to enjoy and use the PT and wait for it to fully fail.
2. Put in a new rollover arm assembly.
3. Weld some plates between the arms to strengthen it.
4. Something else.

I would order the parts and fix it. Put one on my 425 new part stronger then old. Easy job. Pin comes with assembly.

sg

 

[BobRip]

I would order the parts and fix it. Put one on my 425 new part stronger then old. Easy job. Pin comes with assembly.

sg

What did you have to do to get the pin out?

 

[J_J]

Grind the welding off the pin.

 

[BobRip]

Grind the welding off the pin.

That's what it looks like to me. Just want to make sure. Thanks.

 

[BobRip]

I just talked to Ketih. He recommended to try and repair it. I will try welding the crack and adding some plates. Parts are about $180.

 

[woodlandfarms]

180 plus shipping. I have to get a new cylinder from them and while the cylinder is not cheap, I don't want to know what the shipping is going to be.

(abandoning my original idea of replacement - anyone need a new 14" cylinder with a 1.5" thick stem?)

 

[KentT]

Can't find the camera, but borrowed nephews. See attached. The break is on the left side between the two arms. You can see a little grease oozing out. It looks like I could weld a plate between the two arms and strengthen this.

Mine broke and I had to replace it...

Bob, I tried welding the crack on mine three times -- adding different types of reinforcement each time -- and all three failed. The bar inside was slightly bent, concentrating the stress in one area...

Replacing it with the larger replacement bar and rollover seems to have fixed it...