Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[ponytug]

We all know that PT (Terry) suggests using superlube, which is a mix of an oil and teflon. My only concern with white lithium would be getting good enough penetration to lubricate the inner portion of the swivel. If the lithium grease penetrates well, it has better high pressure performance, which is what we would want.

All the best,

Peter

My PT-425 rollover links, neither the original or the new replacement, have grease zerks -- just the ball/socket swivel like those on the ends of the steering cylinders. I've been spraying them with white lithium grease.

 

[KentT]

We all know that PT (Terry) suggests using superlube, which is a mix of an oil and teflon. My only concern with white lithium would be getting good enough penetration to lubricate the inner portion of the swivel. If the lithium grease penetrates well, it has better high pressure performance, which is what we would want.

All the best,

Peter

On the rollover link, at least, it's fairly easy to wiggle the link and try to get penetration/coverage of the ball. It's some of the connections, like the lift arms or the QA that really concern me, similar to SnowRidge...

I think this is a key difference between PTs and true, industrial/commercial grade equipment. PT takes a good, innovative design and cuts corners in order to keep the cost down...

IMO, these are truly HD consumer/light-commercial machines, all the way around. For example, just imagine the wear/tear on one of these at the 3,000 - 4,000 hour point, which isn't at all unusual for landscapers and such...

That's not saying that I'm disappointed with my PT in any way -- I still consider it the best $$ spent on tools in my lifetime. Just pointing out that it's truly a different animal... But, I'm not sure I'd want to try making a living, depending on it.

 

[ponytug]

McMaster has a number for about $10/ea, if you want to change yours...

I'm sure that you could find others.

All the best,

Peter

I asked Terry about that. He said swivels with zerks were so expensive that you could replace a couple of regular swivels for the price of one with a zerk.

What I don't get is all the lift arm parts rotating on bolts, with no lube fittings anywhere except the rollover tube. The Ansung loader on my Branson has hollow pins with zerks everywhere.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So you guys are now thinking that these things need to be greased.

All the fittings on that bar have been replaced. Originals are gone. I have one more non grease which I may weld on, then start greasing them.

The thing though is why aren't the ones on the piston rods greased. Those take a heck of a lot of abuse for sure.

 

[J_J]

So you guys are now thinking that these things need to be greased.

All the fittings on that bar have been replaced. Originals are gone. I have one more non grease which I may weld on, then start greasing them.

The thing though is why aren't the ones on the piston rods greased. Those take a heck of a lot of abuse for sure.

Carl, Every fitting on the PT should be lubed. Metal to metal is not a good thing.

 

[J_J]

I completely agree with this assessment. I have also bent this cylinder a couple of times as well. A complete mystery to me why this cylinder is so weak. I have yet, though, found a cylinder at Surplus Center I feel would work. Still looking. Any thoughts? I think I have the dimensions around here somewhere (I am back in LA for the moment).

Carl, If you can not find a cylinder, Bailey Hydraulic Cylinders Manufacturer can make one for you in any size.

 

[ponytug]

Carl,
On my 1445 they are all zerks for greasing. As JJ writes, if it moves, you want it lubricated, i.e. greased.

All the best,

Peter

So you guys are now thinking that these things need to be greased.

All the fittings on that bar have been replaced. Originals are gone. I have one more non grease which I may weld on, then start greasing them.

The thing though is why aren't the ones on the piston rods greased. Those take a heck of a lot of abuse for sure.

 

[MossRoad]

David, I think Carl would destroy that top-link in short order. He is doing some serious landscaping on his property.

I agree, but it can't hurt to try. After he destroys it, he can still use the ends on a solid piece of stock as a replacement. It just won't be adjustable.

And speaking of grease... does anyone grease the ball ends on a 3PT hitch on a regular basis? Nope. Because they do not swivel too much.

 

[marrt]

Ponytug,

Are you saying all your ball ends have a grease zerk? For example, on the loader arms.

I actually thought greasing these items (with spray) was a bad idea because it would attract dirt and grit.

 

[ponytug]

Dear Marrt,

Yes, every joint has a zerk on my 1445, except for the 4 swivel ends on the two hydraulic steering cylinders. Put another way, every point that rotates on the front end has a zerk associated with it.

Having a zerk at each point does simplify the greasing because you go down the list, top, bottom, left, top, bottom right,... MR had written sometime ago about having a greasing point sheet, which I considered, but since everything gets greased, it is pretty easy. (Well, except for the inboard end of the linkage arm cylinder, which is just plain awkward.) If you have a mixture of zerk and spray, I can see the utility of the list.

The dirt seems to stick to the excess grease, so it seems OK. Despite lots of dust, I don't seem to get much sticking to the superlube either. In my limited experience, both seem to work well. I can see that greasing the 4N1 bottom swivels might be problematic, as they get dragged in dirt a fair amount.

All the best,

Peter

P.S. The ball ends on the 4N1 bucket are spray lubricated, but the rotation points have zerks. Go figure.

Ponytug,

Are you saying all your ball ends have a grease zerk? For example, on the loader arms.

I actually thought greasing these items (with spray) was a bad idea because it would attract dirt and grit.

 

[marrt]

That's interesting. I didn't realize PT was producing cylinders having ball joints with Zerks. They're pretty common elsewhere though.

One question: for ball joints without a zerk, what's the consensus best option for lubrication? The superlube with teflon doesn't seem to have much effect. I always thought PT recommended it just to provide some form of answer to inquires about greasing those joints. As MR pointed out, not many people (no one I've ever seen) grease the ball joints on tractor hitches...and those joints are exposed to a lot of stress. They're viewed as disposable I think and you can but replacements are TSC. Is it really necessary to grease these joints? If so, what about a light penetrating oil/spray? Maybe something synthetic from amsoil or whoever? It would attract dirt. However, there's not much "action" to drive it deeper into the ball joint.

 

[J_J]

I have a spray can of lithium grease that I use on the joints and wipe off the excess.

 

[KentT]

I have a spray can of lithium grease that I use on the joints and wipe off the excess.

Yep... I use the same technique.

 

[MossRoad]

Me, too. I just wipe off any dirt, hold a rag behind the target to stop overspray and spray with spray lube. I do this every 8 hours or so. I also twist the joint and then spray the other side so I get as much as I can.

But as I mentioned, I had the same swivel balls on my 4pt hitch arms on my old IH and I never lubed them once. Perhaps they do not move that much compared to the FEL and steering joints on the PT?

 

[cqaigy2]

Sometimes the spray lithium and sometime i use grease mixed with old gas, putting it on with a paintbrush.

 

[SnowRidge]

One more vote for spray on lithium.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[ponytug]

Dear Carl,

It is largely about the cross section area, so the relevant second dimension would be 1/2"x2" or something.
(=1sq. in. vs 3/4"x2"=1.5sq. in)

I say largely because you wouldn't find 1/8"x 8" very useful, since it would bend in the thin dimension too easily when under compression.

All the best,

Peter

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[woodlandfarms]

Dear Carl,

It is largely about the cross section area, so the relevant second dimension would be 1/2"x2" or something.
(=1sq. in. vs 3/4"x2"=1.5sq. in)

I say largely because you wouldn't find 1/8"x 8" very useful, since it would bend in the thin dimension too easily when under compression.

All the best,

Peter

Yeah, I am thinking a 2 or 2.5" piece but do you think 1/2" is thick enough or should I try to find a 3/4" piece... I don't think there is much price difference so I am leaning toward 3/4"

 

[J_J]

My top link is 1 in thick. Just cut and drill two pieces of 1/2 and weld together. or have your welder make up something like mine with some extra holes.