Any Ideas for a Cheap Compact Rear 3 Pt Counterweight?

mike69440 · Mar 13, 2017

rfc143 said:
If adding weight to the back of the tractor does nothing but reduce the load on the front axle, don't manufacturers have recommendations about the limitations of same? Yes, the loads on the front axle are lower, but they're increased on the rear axle (which admittedly are usually bigger and more robust), but doing so increases the bending moment of the tractor frame itself about the rear axle, and it certainly does nothing to mitigate loads on the FEL arms, pins, and cylinders as well as the 3Pt cylinders and linkages. Does anyone know of a situation where a front axle has been damaged by a manufacturer's supplied, matching FEL for a given tractor without any weight on the 3 pt hitch?

Yes I did in my front Axle with my L39, but that is due to some really nasty and constant loading and a beefy loader after many hours. (Not to mention loading rocks in bucket with an excavator) Note: L39 does not have improved axle of the L45.

So you worry too much. Just don't push in 4WD while lifting and loading on high traction surface with a very strong loader and the front Axle/Frame etc. should outlast the tractor.

Any counter weight that does not make the front end noticeably light and bouncy is just about right.

Sysop · Mar 13, 2017

mike69440 said:
Any counter weight that does not make the front end noticeably light and bouncy is just about right.

I think it should be pointed out, adequate weight for loader work will make it seem a bit light and bouncy without any load in the loader. It is when the loader is loaded that it should seem well balanced and solidly planted.

I like to watch my front tires. I keep my air pressures at the low end of the recommended ranges for good traction. This also makes the tires more sensitive to the balance of weight on the unit. If I'm mashing the front tires down too much with my loader loads, I add weight to the rear.

sixdogs · Mar 14, 2017

This has been a very informative thread so thank you. I had no idea of the weight transfer to the front axle and loads created and it's good to know.

LD1 · Mar 14, 2017

Musdalen said:
Not all concrete is 150#/cf. I contacted the Sakrete people to ask them a question and what they told me worked out to 128#/cf, about 15% short of the 150# rule of thumb. Just so ya know.

Dry powder or cured?

Oldoak · Mar 14, 2017

Sysop said:
I think it should be pointed out, adequate weight for loader work will make it seem a bit light and bouncy without any load in the loader. It is when the loader is loaded that it should seem well balanced and solidly planted.

I like to watch my front tires. I keep my air pressures at the low end of the recommended ranges for good traction. This also makes the tires more sensitive to the balance of weight on the unit. If I'm mashing the front tires down too much with my loader loads, I add weight to the rear.

I don't think that should be the standard operating practice for most tractor owners. Lifting a heavy load with the FED can cause the tire bead to break loose from the rim resulting in a flat tire if the tire pressure is too low.

Any tractor manuals that I have read recommend running at the higher end of the pressure range in the front tires when working with a FED. I would go with R1 radial tires if more traction was needed. Tire chains for severe mud, snow or ice conditions. Other than that a bigger tractor may be the best bet.

Musdalen · Mar 14, 2017

LD1 said:
Dry powder or cured?

Cured, of course.

dkbaker · Mar 31, 2017

A co-worker cut a plastic 55gallon drum in half, drilled a hole in each side, ran a drawbar (with 3 pt top part too) through the holes. Then a couple pcs of 1.5" pvc pipe Standinding up in the drum. Filled it with concrete. He uses the pipe tubes to put he yard tool handles ( shovels, hoes, rakes....) in for transporting around his farm. He says he put a hitch receiver in the back too. so he can pull a small trailer. I thought that was a cool idea.

bdhsfz6 · Mar 31, 2017

Lots of great ideas. Thanks everyone for your input.

Question: Does anyone have experience with this Titan Ballast Box?

Amazon.com: Ballast Box 3 Point Category 1 Tractor Attachment: Home Improvement

At $255 with free shipping through Amazon, it's hard to justify spending time building one. It seems to be well reviewed but appears to be made of rather thin metal. I suppose it could be filled with concrete if it started to fall apart.

jb1390 · Mar 31, 2017

I run a 2000 pound concrete block. These can often be purchased from a local concrete supplier. I think I paid $20 for this one. Building the frame around it is pretty simple. If you wanted to turn it sideways it would not protrude as far, but would apply less force. I do not find it difficult to maneuver as is, so I left it lengthwise for the increased ballast.