Another John Deere 1050 hydraulic problem.

[beenthere]

Hope you get it figured out.
But so far, you have me real confused as to just what is going on, what has gone on in the past, and where you may be going in the near future.
Wish you well...

Hope you get a pressure gauge and figure out your system. Good luck.

 

[krisbodean85]

I bought the tractor from a friend of mine. He hired someone to add a joystick controller because he didn’t like the dual lever. When I got the tractor the loader would work and 3 point hitch would work the front end loader would work with a load but when I bought a bush hog to go behind the tractor it wouldn’t pick the bush hog but the loader would still go up and down and pick up a load. Well then I asked on this forum and got some help on how to hook up the lines. But before I came here to ask I swapped hoses around not the ones that go to the cylinders just the ones that hook up to the tractor and by doing so I busted brazing on the big line coming out of the hydraulic pump on the front of the tractor (it’s located on the bottom side of the pump). Well I took the line out and got it repaired. Reinstalled the line and hooked the lines up like folks had adviced me to do and the tractor worked fine for its first time bush hogging. It sat for a few weeks and came back to use the tractor and it worked at first and quit working. Today as I was bush hogging I touched the lines again and they were not as warm as I thought. And when it works at the initial start up of the tractor(when it’s sat for a day) it’s real jerky I can hear the pump running when I’m pulling the levers (either one of them fel or 3 pt hitch) but later on as I’m using it and try to pull levers I get or Hear nothing. I’m sorry if I’m confusing y’all but I’m not great at explaining things as you can tell.

 

[Rock knocker]

Hopefully this helps.

Looking at your photo in post (#4) of this thread, I thought something was in error. The hydraulic tube that is capped should definitely be in use. If you look at my supplied photograph, you will see a hydraulic module hard piped in the right of the photo (drivers left). In your tractor I assume that the hard pipes coming off this module are still in existance in their original location. I removed mine when I relocated the valve in 1991.

But anyway.
(1) The physically forward of these tubing fitting is the power beyond port from the remote loader valve block.
(2) The rearward fitting out of the module block is the high pressure outlet of the tractor and should be piped directly to the inlet of the loader control.
(3) The hose to the photo left of the rock shaft lock valve is the return to tank from the loader control valve

For proper operation you must have a total of seven hoses going to the loader control valve. PB must be used and used properly. I did exactly what the previous owner was attempting to do my self in 1991, and everything has been flawless.

About that other thing.

Mailed half of it today, other half tomorrow.

 

[Rock knocker]

Wait a second.

Are you also missing the three-point (rock shaft ) control lever and stand alone valve?

 

[krisbodean85]

I don’t have that box that’s on the right of the picture you just posted.

 

[Rock knocker]

Is the three point draft control present? Is the handle there?

Secondly. Does the joy stick have a power beyond fitting and is the hose hooked up?

 

[krisbodean85]

I’ll get better pictures in the morning

 

[Rock knocker]

I've annoted one of your photographs with how I think you need to run the hoses. If you'll notice, you will need to use power beyond. I base my theory on your needed hydraulic circuit by this photograph on page 70-20-8 of the Technical manual

 

[krisbodean85]

This is how my tractor is set up right which looks exactly how the manual says.

 

[Rock knocker]

It looks like you have all three joy stick hoses hooked up, and the draft control lever is there. How's it working?