Another BX25 snow option question

[GeorgeKG]

Back blade is inexpensive, but it sucks for snow removal in my experience. A 5-ft blade on the back of my Iseki was my only snow removal device for the past 12 years. We don't get huge amounts of snow here in VA but the new BX25 is going to get something better for the snow. Here's why:

Back blade is on the back of the tractor (duh) and that means you are looking and working behind you the entire time. You have to push snow backwards or else it builds up between the wheels and blade. You have to turn your upper body and neck 180 degrees to the right so you can work the 3PH up and down. You are pretty much stuck in this position while you are pushing show. I have 600 ft of gravel drive and it isn't fun being twisted around on the tractor.

Right now, the BXpanded blade is at the top of my list but I have not pulled the trigger yet.

..... I think I like the back blade approach because it will cost at least $1500 less, be balanced with the FEL and be more versitile year round. But will it really move deep snow?

.......:laughing:

 

[YotaBota]

This is my 2nd season with a backblade on my BX25. Later in the year, I will purchase a snowblower. Constantly twisting to the rear is a pain in the rear-and neck. Also, and even more of a pain is the constant manual adjustment of the angle that the blade hits the ground. On pavement it's easier, but most of my snow removal efforts are gravel. SO plowing, pushing, or pulling the snow without creating ruts or removing large chucks of packed snow is a near impossibility-at least for me. One guy had created a 3 point hitch with 3 hydraulic rams to make the adjustment easier BUT I don't weld or have the time and burning desire to create this. So I'll spend the $3500 for a front mounted snow blower. But that brings up another question, that I will post, because you're not supposed to answer a question with a question

John

 

[jdonovan]

Back blade is on the back of the tractor (duh) and that means you are looking and working behind you the entire time. You have to push snow backwards or else it builds up between the wheels and blade. You have to turn your upper body and neck 180 degrees to the right so you can work the 3PH up and down. You are pretty much stuck in this position while you are pushing show. I have 600 ft of gravel drive and it isn't fun being twisted around on the tractor.

The 'normal' way to use the rear blade on a tractor with some ground clearance is:

Angle the blade 15-30 degrees to one side, facing forward.... then clear the snow by driving forward.

This only works for snows that are about 1/2 the ground clearance of the tractor. With a BX, thats what 3" of snow

If the snow is deeper, then you've got to work backwards.

 

[VermontWacko]

This is lots of years of negative experience with the back blade approach -- and the BX25, being a frame-reinforced subcompact, has low clearence -- making this setup less effective.

OK -- y'all have moved me off that approach.

That leaves either one of the front-mounted blade approaches or one of the throwers. I understand that people love the front mounted throwers but $s matter too. Time for me to do more cost comparisons and come back with alternatives for y'all to comment on.

Sugestions welcomed. (I'm not gonna fabricate something -- so, fyi, I will be sticking with commercially available stuff.) Thanks once again for your input.

 

[BryanMA]

Just a note about ballast - I find that my filled ag tires are just about a perfect combination for winter use. The ballast is just about right and they don't hold the snow. Just my $.02

The backhoe is a little heavy, and tends to get in the way in tight situations. This year I am running the front snowblower and for that the filled ags work great.

 

[GeorgeKG]

I haven't been that lucky. I have tried that over the years but didn't have much success. I think your technique would be fine for a paved surface because you can drop the blade and roll. My experience is that gravel requires constant attention to blade height and that means looking at the blade all the time.

The 'normal' way to use the rear blade on a tractor with some ground clearance is:

Angle the blade 15-30 degrees to one side, facing forward.... then clear the snow by driving forward.

This only works for snows that are about 1/2 the ground clearance of the tractor. With a BX, thats what 3" of snow

If the snow is deeper, then you've got to work backwards.

 

[donn12]

A blower would definitley be better for lots of snow. You could look for a used 3 pt blower. Yes you would be looking back but it should not take long. You also get to keep the loader on the front.

I think if you get the kubota blower you can switch it to the front later if you buy the hitch and the pto extender.

 

[jdonovan]

I I think your technique would be fine for a paved surface because you can drop the blade and roll. My experience is that gravel requires constant attention to blade height and that means looking at the blade all the time.

ANY tool used on a non-paved surface will need constant attention to avoid digging in unless that surface is perfectly flat.. and I've never met a drive that was.

 

[jdonovan]

That leaves either one of the front-mounted blade approaches or one of the throwers. I understand that people love the front mounted throwers but $s matter too. Time for me to do more cost comparisons and come back with alternatives for y'all to comment on.

Front blade will probably run you 1/2 the cost of a rear thrower.

Depending on how much snow you get and how much space there is on the sides of the drive would sway my vote.

If you get 10's of feet a year, and it never melts between storms... get a blower.

Plows need to move the snow every 8-12" (some prefer 6" limits), if you get 20-30" storms that means several plowings per storm.

Also you'll need space along side your drive to push the snow into. If your drive goes through hills and is 'sunkin in' then you'll have problems pushing the snow somewhere.


The blower can generally move up to what ever its height is. For a 22 sized machine I doubt this will exceed 20-24". Some of the big blowers are in the 30-36" tall range.

 

[KU Gator]

JDonovan

I was not aware of the BXpanded blade until this post. I looked at the pictures on the website and it looks interesting.

Does it only hook to the bucket with the chain plus what looks like two slide on connections at the bottom of the bucket?

Does it slide around on the bucket when you use it?

It sounds like you are rather pleased with its performance. Can you give a bit more of a review?

Thanks.

 

[radair]

JDonovan

I was not aware of the BXpanded blade until this post... Can you give a bit more of a review?

Thanks.

Look here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/191810-bxpanded-snow-plow.html

I have a 1/4 mile long (steep both ways) gravel driveway and went with a rear blower. I rely on the FEL to get close to the garage and house too much that I couldn't give it up. Lots of folks say what a pain in the neck a rear blower is but I switch from side to side and get a nice spinal twist stretch that others pay the yoga instructor for! Works for me. Two passes with a 5' blower and I'm about done.

 

[GeorgeKG]

Jdonovan

Did our latest snow give you a chance to work with the BXpanded blade? Sure would appreciate a first hand report.

 

[jdonovan]

Does it only hook to the bucket with the chain plus what looks like two slide on connections at the bottom of the bucket?

yes

Does it slide around on the bucket when you use it?

no, not when adjusted properly.

It sounds like you are rather pleased with its performance. Can you give a bit more of a review?

here, now with video of it in use.

 

[AHNC]

I'm in VT today and there is hardly any snow, well, where I am in Burlington. We got another foot at home in MA and with the fourth storm in a row and no melt off the problem is where to put it. The folks that plow are living with smaller and smaller open area. I use a snow blower and have been able to keep the whole area clear. I'd go with a front blower and a rear blade. And, your neighbors will love you for it:laughing:

 

[GeorgeKG]

Thanks for posting the details and video. I had my first experience running the BX25 in the snow tonight. It was only a few inches, but convinced me that the bucket alone isn't much good in the snow. Your info was the final thing that helped me make a decision and I'm ordering one tonight.

yes


no, not when adjusted properly.



here, now with video of it in use.

 

[VermontWacko]

OK -- as Dick Chaney said ... it is time for the decider.

Backblade approach was eliminated earlier -- due to massive advice in this thread that it just won't work in my situation. (Anything involving fabrication or patients were eliminated earlier because I don't have those skills.)

(Situation is: deep snowfalls in most years and 130' dirt/ grass drive rising 10' and turning to get up from the barn to the driveway. (Driveway = 'dooryard' here in VT --FYI.) Driveway is 90' and flat. BX25 sleeps in the barn, rear tires are loaded with RimGaurd and w/ 2-link chains.)

Front, frame mounted blade approach also eliminated in my thinking beacause high snow banks can't be pushed back and really deep snow can be too much to handle (and the FEL would be off and have to be remounted, etc. Too much of a pain in *** for me.)

Front loader mounted blades (such as ANBRO and Curtis) or FEL mounted blades (BXpander) are, according to y'all, all good equpment in the right situation. And, because of loader-arm hydrolics, they can knock back banks.

BXpander is also very cost efective at about $1K, but has the 'cons' of elongating the tractor (less handy in tight spaces, possibly needing aditional rear balast) and the angle must be set by hand. Loader mounted blades with quick hitches and hydrolic power angle cost more -- around $2k. All of these blades are quick to use, but struggle with snows over 1 foot.

Throwers seem to be liked by most who have them. The con is they cost more ($2.4K to $2.9K) and have slower ground speed -- particularly relevant in cleaning up after a small storm. They also have a number of moving parts that need to be lubricated on a fairly regular basis. The pro is they can handle deep snow on all sufaces, on hills and around turns. Since this is what happens here, I (actually Dick) have got to go with a thrower.

Now, front or back? My conclusion is that either would work for me. But Dick has to pick just one.

The 50" Ber-Vac Blizzard is the front mount thrower that Kubota paints orange and offers. Everyone on this blog who has one, likes it -- maybe even loves it. It is the price that hurts. In part this set-up is expensive because the mid-PTO kit and front Quick Hitch is required and, in part, because it is well made. (I won'tl need these other pieces of hardware -- so they offer me no real 'flexibility value' -- unless someone invents a rocket launcher attachament that I just have to get. Better yet, how about a reasonably priced stump grinder -- utilizing high RPMs of the mid-PTO?)

A back thrower keeps the FEL in place (good functionality and tractor balance) and costs less. The 'con' is that you are working backwards and a significant number of you have said that is less than great -- especailly if you have long distances, clear snow at night or during storms. (I have the last two.) To compare equal quality, my Orange dealer quoted the 48" and 54" Ber-Vac, PTO mounted throwers. They are as much of a beast as the front mounted Ber-Vac and the 54" is 4" wider. It costs about $2.4K and needs the 3PH ($170) that is optional on the BX25.

The front thrower costs more, $300 (@$2.7K with mechanical controls), you can't have the FEL on at the same time and you loose 4" of width. (50" is still 6" wider than the BX25.) But you work facing forward, mid-PTO has high 2500 RPM (vs. 540 RPM for rear PTO), your head lights may be good enough and because it is somewhat more popular, it may have higher resale value. With loaded tires and chains, traction should be good -- and eventually that back blade or box scaper in my future would be a good compliment (quick removal of light snow and balance).

Bring in Dich Chaney -- toss the coin -- its ... the front thrower (The $300 savings just didn't seem worth it -- projecting to the first time I'm out in a blizzard, in the dark, with no cab and auxilliary lights not yet installed.) Just shows you, the human mind can justify anything. I promiss, if this thing isn't a dream, I will report any anguish back to y'all.

Many thanks to Bob @ Giddings Equipment the Kubota dealer in Pittsford, VT for his insights and to all of you who have chipped in.

 

[irvingj]

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I don't think you'll regret it.

And remember (from an expert at rationalizing...), in light snow --either not too deep or light & fluffy-- I can go with my blower just as fast as the tractor can go, no problem. High range, pedal to the metal. It's definitely not slow in those circumstances.

If the Kubota's anything like the M-F, it doesn't take long to switch back to the FEL-- but I doubt you'll need to.

Blow, baby, blow!

 

[devildog1]

Lots of info to process and great answers but for where you live and the Bx25's size and weight and ground clearance. Front or rear snow blower is best, come on you guys get mucho snow in VT. just like us in upstate N.Y.For area's of heavy snow most of the winter the snow blower will be the easiest on you and tractor, yes cost most but the best to do. Many of the TBN members have gone through this , just like you, including myself. Buy the snow blower you will not regret it, winter just started.
DevilDog

 

[Adventureman]

I'm in central west NH and I've got a BX23 with the front blower and love it. My driveway is bluestone gravel, sloped down to the road and few hundred feet in length lined with a stone wall on one side. A number of years ago, I had a snowbear plow on my jeep and busted it up badly when I slammed an ice pile at the end of the driveway... I could only push the snows to one side and eventually found the drive getting too narrow(beside the gouging of the drive). So I got the BX23 with the front blower and leave the BH on the back for ballast AND to break up large snow/ice piles leftover from plowtrucks which I then blow off into the trees (I've been moonlighting clearing driveways and snowpiles). Occasionally it comes in handy pulling me out of hidden ditches(like today :laughing: ).

I don't have chains and haven't needed them for the 5 years I've used it..( I have turf tires as well!) When we get lighter or lesser amounts (like 3-4 inches or less) I would use the blower as a plow and then engage the thrower when it piles up enough.

The one thing I really like is the float feature which is part of the FELS hydraulics which works well with the blower as well. It helps avoid digging the driveway before it has a chance to freeze hard.

So far this season, I've already made more than half the cost back in just clearing the small mountains of snow the plowtrucks have been leaving behind. Mind you that this is the 5th winter with this and it has already been paid for a few times.

I believe you'll be pleased with investing in the front thrower. It may have been painful to purchase at 1st but it was well worth it in the long run.

 

[kday64]

I think if you get the kubota blower you can switch it to the front later if you buy the hitch and the pto extender.

The kubota rear blower is much heavier than there front blower and read somewhere on TBN the Mid PTO spins the opposite direction than the rear PTO. Don't forget mid PTO spins twice as fast as well.

Reversing and reducing gear boxes might be required.