Agrotk excavators: Does anyone have one? Opinions/comments/critiques?

[Fredrik]

I've had my Kat 12 since May 2023. My honest opinion is to look at other brands.
I've had to put lock washers, locktite and lock nuts (where I could get to the bolt end) on just about every thing bolted.
The bolts on the track base got so loose one day that the whole top portion almost separated, ie, tracks and turn table in one place and on the ground beside it the dog house and arm on its side. Some bolts were never even put in to hold components together.
YES I still have and use it , but only because I can't sell it and still sleep well at night.
There are plenty of affordable options out there.

 

[Mitchz]

I have 3 Agrotk H-12 excavators with the Briggs and Stratton Engine. They are a great little machine where I live in Florida. Plenty of power for Florida soils and very fast machines. I had to swap a couple hoses to change the control pattern to my preference which took 20 minutes. I also cut out the existing engine cooling vents for much better cooling and super easy access to the engine. Although assembled in China, the machine incorporates name brand components that are extremely durable and easy to obtain if ever needed. I have only ONE single complaint with these machines and that is that they are "jerky". I have many thousands of hours operating equipment, especially excavators of all sizes. I can just barely operate these things without getting totally beat up. It's like jumping on a mechanical bull at high speed.
Now, I know that somebody out there probably knows an easy cure for this and I would dearly love to hear it !!!

 

[Mitchz]

I've had my Kat 12 since May 2023. My honest opinion is to look at other brands.
I've had to put lock washers, locktite and lock nuts (where I could get to the bolt end) on just about every thing bolted.
The bolts on the track base got so loose one day that the whole top portion almost separated, ie, tracks and turn table in one place and on the ground beside it the dog house and arm on its side. Some bolts were never even put in to hold components together.
YES I still have and use it , but only because I can't sell it and still sleep well at night.
There are plenty of affordable options out there.

Sorry for the earlier erroneous post. I am unfamiliar with this site. However he goes:

I just bought a H12. It arrived and all looked good initially. However I discovered some things as I tried to use it.
First, I pulled out the choke to start it. Wouldn’t start. I discovered that I had to pull out the choke beyond the normal stop before the engine would start (about 6”). As soon as it starts I push the choke back in.

After using the excavator for several minutes I discovered that it was leaking hydraulic fluid into the chassis. I didn’t discover that until the chassis filled with enough fluid to leak onto the ground. I then discovered that the enclosed wrenches to access the hydraulic couplers were virtually useless as they didn’t provide access to get to the hydraulic couplers in order to tighten. There were 3 loose couplers.

To remove the side and rear plates you need a 17mm, 18mm, 1/2”, and socket and drive extenders at least 9” long. There us no 18mm wrench in tool box. This is required to remove the sides and back plate in order to remove them to access the hydraulics. Note that all the plates are bolted together as well on the bottom where an adjustable crescent wrench ( or box wrench) is required. Note that the counterweight also has to be partially removed to remove the rear plate.

The engine can’t be accessed without removing the side plates. There is no oil stick.

When time to lubricate, there are both regular grease fittings AND low profile grease fittings. The enclosed grease gun only has an adapter for regular fittings and also doesn’t accept standard lithium grease tubes. To lubricate a low profile grease fitting adapter is required.

The throttle arm totally disassembled itself as the pin just fell out. Easy fix with a finish nail once I figured out how it was to look.

Finally the controls required some time to become acquainted with as they will stall the engine without enough throttle.

Despite all that, for $8K it can’t be beat. I have a Deere 310 SE but because of limited access I needed a much smaller unit. I used it to remove and relocate very large and heavy rocks as well as an infestation of Russian Sage roots. Renting a unit for the 3 month project probably would have cost the same.

I plan to sell it in the spring so we shall see how the resale holds up.

 

[JPaganel]

I also just bought an H12 and I found this place and registered because there is that 70 page thread on these things here. That seemed like the most information on them in one place.

My cost was $5300 + tax. Which is the cheapest I have ever seen a mini-ex of any kind, even a busted up one.

I am a homeowner and live in a city, so anything larger is not really an option. This machine fit through my fence gate. I have a retaining wall to fix and a bunch of landscaping fails to correct in the yard, plus there is also my parents' place that could use work. Renting one would probably eventually cost the same as this, plus there is the whole thing of being under the gun to return on time.

I am by no means an expert on equipment, and everything that follows is my opinion and guesses, so if anyone wants to correct me that would be great.

So far I have used it to do a couple of decidedly non-excavatory things, such as pulling a car into my driveway and yanking an old chainlink fence post out. That all worked fine.

The machine came with a very cheap tool box containing two manuals (machine and motor), a tool set (two open end wrenches, a screwdriver, and a spark plug wrench), the cheapest grease gun I have ever seen (although it does include both fittings for standard zerks and for whatever those conical things are), and a plastic bag of some seriously suspect-looking grease. I don't plan on using the grease or the grease gun.

I got better at dealing with the jerkiness in about 20 minutes - it's a matter of habit to a large degree. Although, I think lengthening the control sticks might help.

The engine is an off the shelf Briggs & Stratton. It's kinda hilarious how they made a remote choke for it just by drilling a hole in the choke lever and bending the cable into it.

The only problems I had so far were caused likely by the prep after it came off the boat. The gas wasn't very good, and there was so little, I stalled out driving it off the trailer. Also, hydraulics were underfilled. Fresh gas and a little fluid to top off the hydro tank took care of it.

There are a few things that are design faults to my eye. Nothing that is really bad, just things being annoying.

The B&S engine is clearly a generic unit, and isn't really meant to be installed in an enclosure. Took me forever to figure out the oil situation. It actually has two fillers and two drains - one set at the back and one at the front. You can get to the rear fill by pulling the rear grille. That's something like 8 10mm bolts. They really should be latches. Rear fill has a tiny dipstick, you can at least check oil. Don't do it on a hot engine, you will probably burn yourself on something.

You can access the front filler and drain by pulling the floor panel. Two 12mm bolts. I am not sure you can actually get a bottle in there to fill it, and while that drain is more accessible, I don't see a way to get a pan under it. Probably worth looking into screwing a hose in there and making a remote drain. Also, B&S manual says they have a longer fill tube, which might help, although I haven't found a part number for it yet.

Same floor plate hides the battery, it's under your left foot as you sit on the machine. Also a dumb place for it - if you ever have to jump it, gotta pull that floor plate.

The hydraulic tank doesn't seem to have a drain. I think when/if I am going to change out fluid, I will have to unscrew a hose, which I think is the suction hose for the pump. Kinda thinking of seeing if I can get a T fitting in it and route a short hose to the outside as a drain.

Manual says the only filter in the hydro system is a strainer on the pickup. That kinda seems not enough - I am pretty sure there should be more filtration. I think I can add a filter kit to the return line pretty easy.

I read that there are some issues with heat both on the motor and in hydraulics. I haven't used it enough to see them, but it seems reasonable. The motor has a cooling fan built in, but it's like 10 inches away from the outside, not even near the side grille. Maybe a duct would help, or some people seem to have had good luck with electric fans.

I also will probably look into a hydraulics cooler. Seems like cheap insurance. Really not sure where I could mount it, though. Manual says "don't let it get too hot", but doesn't really say how hot that is, which is kinda goofy.

 

[D'oh]

Well, AgroTK now has their QH12 1-ton mini-X on sale for $6199 + tax, including US shipping. Shipped from Chicago.

That is an amazing price, but does not include many attachments or spares. Those willing to brave a direct import can score attachments and spares for much much less. With all costs in mind, you will probably not do much better than $6200 per unit, however.

The AgroTK website has a minimal parts diagram, and there still seems to be no hyd oil filter or cooler, and no wheel brakes.

$5899 13.5 HP B&S 1-ton Mini & Small Excavator, Gasoline For Sale | AGT-QH12 - agrotkindustrial

At Agrtok, we're committed to providing our customers with the best possible value, which is why we're offering our Agrotk 1-ton mini excavator for just $5899 – significantly lower than our competitors' pricing. And with our one-year warranty, you can rest assured that you're getting a...

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The QH12 Agro TK I purchased at the same sale as my SDLooL 380 Mini Skid, Does have a Hydraulic Filter, but no Cooler or Wheel Brakes. It is an Exact Copy of my FF Industrial FF12 I purchased last spring.

I am still trying to figure out the Origin Company, but I believe Yancheng Cross i the closest I have seen. Oil Tank under the Floor is the hardest one to spot

 

[Sonny580]

I just got the L-12 ----- WAY better than the H-12 setup. These things are confusing cause they all look alike but are totally different inside!
The L-12 has the rear hood that raises up to get to the motor and the H-12 does not,--only the seat tips and you cant get anywhere near the motor to work on it or check the oil.
As for quality,--- well NONE of the grease fittings work, gotta go buy decent ones AND course everything is metric on it. Motor on mine came with the intake valve stuck open,---had to take the head off and the valve and chamber was full of something melted and burned to the surfaces! Wot a crock!!
Digger itself is fair,---no production machine for sure but great for the tiny places the 580 ck wont fit in and I'm too damn old for shovels anymore!
The thumb gotta come off to use the digger, tossed mine in the junk pile, blade gotta have a taller plate welded on top to keep dirt in front of the blade and not fall behind it! I would like to have the grapple bucket and rake along with the ripper tooth for mine, IF I get the motor runnin again.
$4,000 or less should buy one.

 

[dfkrug]

Motor on mine came with the intake valve stuck open,---had to take the head off and the valve and chamber was full of something melted and burned to the surfaces! Wot a crock!!

Congrats (or condolences) on the new mini-X, Sonny.

Got pix of what happened inside the intake? I assume you got the Briggs XR2100. It is built in China, but is a good engine. Hopefully fixable.

blade gotta have a taller plate welded on top to keep dirt in front of the blade and not fall behind it!

The blade will interfere with the bottom of the house in raised position if you weld anything on its top edge. The first machines that got the cast bolt-on counterweight did not account for that, and there was interference. Your best bet here is to rig up some sort of protection for the cylinder, and take small bites when dozing. I have not done this yet.

Buying these machines is a case study in forensics.

 

[MattB4]

I just got the L-12 ----- WAY better than the H-12 setup. These things are confusing cause they all look alike but are totally different inside!
... IF I get the motor runnin again.

After some cold weather starting difficulties I found out these B&S engines now come from the factory with a Torch spark plug. Torch is a Chinese company and they put out some really crappy spark plugs. Through the years of me finding them in various small engines the one constant was how better they would work once going to a reputable spark plug brand.

I replaced mine with a Honda brand NGK (made in Japan!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJV1XQU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and the difference is noticeable. Starts easy and runs smoothly through all throttle positions. I like it so much I bought 2 more plugs to have on hand. You have to be careful that someone does not sell you the resistor type (BPR6ES) of the plug. I had to return an order from the first place I bought a NGK plug from because they shipped the wrong one.

 

[Sonny580]

This one has the XR 250000 motor in it not the 210000. The spark plug has the B & S logo on it so who knows what it is.
Didnt think to take pix of the intake but it was hard melted on carbon like crud, and NEW motor right off the shipping crate should NOT have anything on it!
Did finally get valve unstuck and out,--cleaned up, reground the valve and ready to put the head back on. Also the carb is plugged partly cause it only runs with the choke half on which I can live with IF necessary but what the hell did they try to run in it before they boxed it up at the factory?? Got me beat! Anyway these motors say B & S on them but I was told they are chimineese clones of Hondas. I have no idea but they do look like Hondas and sound like them so who knows! I just want it to run and dig.
I did get a half hour digging when the valve stuck open for the second time and I took the head off to see what was going on. Called the local AUTHORIZED B & S dealer for warranty service and of course was denied right out of the gate which I knew would happen but just wanted to make the dealer squirm! LOL! Ya by it ,---Ya own it,--- YA fix it yourself!
Another thing I ran into was the grease fittings! NONE of the ones they put in at the factory will take grease! gotta replace every one of them with known good ones! Of course they METRIC chit too so gotta go buy more stuff!
Bucket side plates gotta come off,--- all the big bolts stickin out interferes with dumping the bucket and the tooth bolts are kinda in the way so looking to drive carriage bolts in them with nuts on the bottom side OR just weld them on since I will never wear them out in the rest of my lifetime.
Track tighteners need to be converted to bolt and spring instead of using grease gun! Thats a real crock!
Anyway the problems continue with it! LOL!
Might eventually make a nice digger out of it if I live long enough!

 

[MattB4]

This one has the XR 250000 motor in it not the 210000. The spark plug has the B & S logo on it so who knows what it is.
...

Mine has the B&S Logo but also says Torch. You should have gotten an engine manual that specifies the spark plug and gap. Sorry you got a damaged engine with a new unit. Have you contacted the Seller about it? Or perhaps the AGROTK industrial outfit in Chicago. There is supposedly a year Warranty on these things

Instead of removing the side cutters consider doing what I did which is to weld them on and then remove the bolts. I also ground a bevel on the face to help with root busting.