Advice on Grapple Hydaulics

/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #1  

deanocraft

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2014
Messages
190
Location
Bryson City, NC
Tractor
MF 1529
I was on a hunting trip last week and spent a lot of time in a tree stand. Lots of time to sit and think... On day 2 of a 3 day trip I decided to buy a grapple for my Massey Ferguson 1529 tractor. I have sold the wife on the idea, so it's gonna happen soon. I have a loader on the tractor, but no rear hydraulics. In researching previous posts on this very topic, I am confident that a diverter valve will work for me. I am also pretty sure I can hook it up myself.

I do have some questions, though... Unfortunately, the tractor is in NC at a house we don't live in quite yet, so I can't examine it when I have questions! I am leaning towards buying a diverter valve from Surplus Supply and once I have it in hand, I can work out where to mount it and what fittings and hoses I will need. The hydraulics have 11.5 GPM total flow, so I am looking at something like this valve. It has flow which slightly exceeds my tractor's maximum, so I think it will work. My biggest question is how I will figure out what type of hose connectors are on the tractor right now. I know there are different types... Will something be printed or stamped on the existing fittings?

I will probably buy a Wicked Grapple from EA and they will also sell me a WR Long SSQA mounting plate to convert my pin type bucket mount and the other plate to convert my existing bucket to SSQA.

Do I sound like I am on the right track here? Any advice on the plumbing will be appreciated!
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Based on advice I saw in previous threads, I hope to mount the valve and then measure the length and route of the hoses I'll need using a water hose or rope or wire...
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #3  
Yes you are on the right track.

Get everything mounted before you measure for hoses.

On my tractor, The hoses that hook to the loader valve with the quick connects.....those hoses were only a few feet long and then they hooked into hard steel lines on the loader arm.

I mounted my diverter right next to where those connected to the steel lines so I could re-use those hoses. Just buy the right adapters and unhooked from steel lines....hooked to diverter.

Then a couple of short hoses to go from diverter and plug those steel lines back in.

Then a pair of longer hoses and couplers of your choice (as there are so many different styles) to run up front to plug into where the grapple goes.



The diverter you have selected is almost just like mine. But dont get hung up too much on its flow rate. Because it isnt a continuous flow application. It is ONLY gonna pass fluid when you move the loader or grapple.

IF you havent....read my thread on my diverter install. Link is in my signature
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I did read your thread on the grapple install, LD1. Thanks for posting that. Unfortunately, it was before I had my epiphany in the tree stand that I needed a grapple... I searched looking for that thread, but I did not find it again. I am glad you pointed it out. You did a nice job on that. I'll go ahead and find a valve and buy it. Once I figure out where to mount it, I'll move on to the next step of hoses and fittings. And somewhere in there, I'll order a grapple!
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #5  
I did read your thread on the grapple install, LD1. Thanks for posting that. Unfortunately, it was before I had my epiphany in the tree stand that I needed a grapple... I searched looking for that thread, but I did not find it again. I am glad you pointed it out. You did a nice job on that. I'll go ahead and find a valve and buy it. Once I figure out where to mount it, I'll move on to the next step of hoses and fittings. And somewhere in there, I'll order a grapple!

For alot less money than some other brands...I am very pleased with my tomahawk grapple. Tines are well gusseted, and works as it should. I havent managed to bend or break anything and thats with a bigger tractor than yours. I think I gave $1200 for mine locally.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#6  
That grapple mighht be a bit large for my tractor, but it does look like a good deal. I ordered this valve and will attempt to mount it weekend after next.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thank you Jabelding. I agree that the weight is an issue, and that grapple is the lightest I've seen. I am still debating the best one for me, but I like their products. I think I am leaning towards a wicked grapple with the traditional L shape because I can stack firewood on it... (at least in some pictures I have seen)! I think that may prove handy to me in the long run.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #9  
20170715_153553.jpg
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#11  
So, some progress has been made... I was at our place where the tractor lives last weekend, so I was able to figure out the best place to mount the diverter valve. I don't have all my tools there, so I dismantled the support that holds the loader valve and brought it home to work on the mount. I am mounting it under and slightly rear of the existing valve.
IMG_2066.JPG

I had some 3" wide 1/8" flat bar, so I went at it with a sawzall, file, and grinder. Then drill some holes and add a little black paint.

IMG_2092.JPG

And mounted it on the support member I brought home to work on.

IMG_2094.JPGIMG_2096.JPG

I still have questions in my head... I am new to this hydraulics game. I am pretty sure that the existing hoses on the curl circuit will reach the new diverter just fine. Hopefully, I can figure out any adaptors I need to buy. The holes in the diverter are 8SAE, but I do not know what the hose ends are. I am also trying to figure out how to mount the quick connect ends of the grapple lid hoses. I think I could mount some kind of a plate to the driver's side loader arm, (yes I know the tractor does not have a passenger side). Here is a picture...

IMG_2062.JPG

My problem with that is where do I get such a mounting plate, and how to attach it? I do not weld... I can drill, but I am not sure if that is the best idea. I have seen posts on TBN by a guy who used some type of a disc with a stud extending off that he epoxied to clean metal on his tractor. Does anyone remember that guy's name or what that product is called?
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #12  
You could get a U-bolt that fits on the torque tube between the loader arms and make the bracket out of angle stock that bolts to the U bolt.

A hydraulic store can set you up with fittings and makes hoses for you. Bring in a hose off the loader so they can match the fitting.

Or you can use the document from DiscountHydraulicHose.com to determine what fittings you have. But sometimes it's not clear which it is. Then it helps to have an expert look at it. http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thank you Eric. That might work... I'll keep that in mind for my next visit to see my tractor. I can see that I would have to figure out how to stay away from those steel hydraulic lines with a u bolt, but it may be doable.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #14  
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Excellent, Shaeff! That is just what I was looking for.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #17  
Orient the U bolt so a corner where a leg of the U and the flat plate meets is over the lines.

If you want to use adhesive, VHB or UHB tape on a bracket could have a larger surface area than the click bonds and be easier to apply. Either way make sure the bracket and paint is extra clean (I use acetone) and stick it where you want it as it's not coming off. Is it strong enough? People use it to stick solar panel brackets on the tops of camper vans. Adhesive might not hold if you forget to latch the SSQA and the grapple falls off the tractor only to be held up by the hydraulic lines. A guy here did that (by accident) and posted the video.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #18  
Grapples have also been know to come off when a limb pokes thru and moves the latching handle. Limbs poking thru are also hard on the radiators etc etc. keep that in mind on what grapple you buy, or how you modify it or on just how you operate using it.
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Hey all you hydraulics guys... it has been a while since I updated this thread. I have been pretty busy and have finally gotten all the hoses hooked up and the grapple on the tractor. I don稚 have any leaks in my connections, so that makes me happy.

I am having a problem, though. I put the diverter valve on the loader curl circuit and now that I can test this thing, neither the curl/dump nor grapple open/close will work. It is as if there is an obstruction in the diverter. All other hydraulic functions on the tractor work fine. I needed to mow, so I ran my flail for a couple hours and everything else works as expected.

I purposely avoided the curl/dump and grapple functions while mowing. The only thing I noticed that I had not noticed before is that the hose going to the 3 pt got pretty hot over the 2 hr mow session. I could touch it, but it was definitely hot. I can稚 say for sure if that hose, (I assume it is the power beyond to the 3 pt), normally gets hot.

I will say that the diverter solonoid does not make a very loud clank noise when I activate it to power the grapple. I expected to hear a more powerful clank, but I don稚 have any experience with hydraulics or diverter valves... the sound is more like a gentle click. I wonder if this is normal or if this may be my problem. It just seems like there is something wrong in the diverter, as neither function works through it.

Any guidance on what to check first would be greatly appreciated!
 
/ Advice on Grapple Hydaulics #20  
Does your loader valve have regen on the dump curl? If it does it might not work with a diverter setup.
 

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