Adapting JIC from 3/8” to 1/2”?

[hayden]

Are you looking to directly (or as directly as possible) connect the quick connects to the valve, or would there be hoses between them? In the pictures they seem separated, but maybe you are changing that?

If direct connect, you can get female to female JIC swivels with different sizes on each end. I agree with others that its also worth checking whether the valve end are ORB. They sure look like it, but you thought some were not? If the are, I'd look at removing the ORB to JIC Male, and look at replacing with an ORB to JIC Female that will connect directly to the couplers? Also check the couplers to see if they are actually ORB with JIC fittings attached? Maybe an ORB male to ORB amle will allow a direct connection without all the intermediate adapters.

 

[threepiece]

Are you the guy that bought the valve for $1 or some crazy price at an auction?

If so, you're paying for it now, LOL. Good luck. Cheap or free isn't always a good deal.

If not, it seems crazy that a regular spool valve has two different ports.

Yes, I bought this valve at the scrap yard for about $4.

The issues I am having have nothing to do with the valve and everything to do with my desire to plumb it with steel lines as opposed to flexible hose. Had I chose to use flexible hose this installation would have been done two weeks ago and this thread would not exist.

This is my first endeavor into hydraulics. While I may be paying a price for doing it this way, I am also getting an education that I will likely use in the future. A good deal if you ask me.

 

[threepiece]

Are you looking to directly (or as directly as possible) connect the quick connects to the valve, or would there be hoses between them? In the pictures they seem separated, but maybe you are changing that?

If direct connect, you can get female to female JIC swivels with different sizes on each end. I agree with others that its also worth checking whether the valve end are ORB. They sure look like it, but you thought some were not? If the are, I'd look at removing the ORB to JIC Male, and look at replacing with an ORB to JIC Female that will connect directly to the couplers? Also check the couplers to see if they are actually ORB with JIC fittings attached? Maybe an ORB male to ORB amle will allow a direct connection without all the intermediate adapters.

I plan to plumb with 1/2” steel tubing from the valve to the connectors. I want to use flexible hose only where flex is necessary.

The coupler body is essentially one piece with a 1/2” JIC machined on the end.

While the six fittings in the work ports look like ORB, three of them are special. The special ones have an additional O-ring on the bottom face. I’m not sure the purpose but I don’t want to change anything there. All six fittings have 3/8” male JIC to connect to.

I have a ridiculous amount of time in this project because my shop is 200 miles away, I have little hydraulic experience and a stubborn desire to archive a clean installation.

 

[Sportsman762]

I have a problem with making things work were they should not. Sometimes it costs me way more money than if I did it with proper stuff. Generally I end up hating the extra work it caused me, but I keep trying to shoe horn stuff together. So what your doing seems like a fun challenge.

I would use 1/2" tube.
On the valve end I would use flared fittings
Parker 8BTX-S nut and 8TX-S sleeve. They are pretty affordable. There are other brands but I am lazy and don't want to look their part numbers up.

UNMARKED 8 BTX-S NUT FITTING NSNB | eBay

Manufacturer's ID: 8 BTX-S NUT FITTING. Manufacturer: UNMARKED.

www.ebay.com

https://www.zoro.com/triple-lok-sleeve-8-tx-s/i/G5003915/

Next I would ditch the bulkhead fittings. I am assuming you have 1/2" npt couplers. In their place I would use 1/2" tube bite style to 1/2" NPT bulkhead couplers. There might be other brands but the Swagelok SS-810-1-8 fits the bill

Amazon.com

Its probably cheaper to use hose, but whats the fun in that.