A simple three point counterweight

[Par4x4]

Here you go, let me know if you need any more. the 4x4 steel angle go all the way to the embeded drawbar and fasten in with large bolts, the 2 inch fastens to the drawbar with a long 3/4 inch all thread, and welded to the 2 inch receiver, and then rebar welded at an angle on each side to the drawbar and the side of the 2 inch reciever for side to side stabilization.

James K0UA

This looks like what I need except for the receiver hitch which I don't really need.

 

[RSKY]

I wish I had never seen this old thread. Now I've gotta build one.

RSKY

 

[DavidL61]

This what i eventually plan on doing. use a 55 gallon plastic drum and design it so i can attach to my quick hitch.

 

[aeblank]

This what i eventually plan on doing. use a 55 gallon plastic drum and design it so i can attach to my quick hitch.

assuming I already posted, but that's what I did. Put in rerod. My dad had one (in a barrel) split in half after a few years. Mine is QH compatible. I forget the weight, but it seems like it was maybe 1400#. I'd have to find/open the CAD to tell exactly.

Anyway.....
Tractor - Counterweight - Album on Imgur

 

[captjack]

This is as simple as it gets - install rear pallet forks - back up to big ol chunk of oak - watch tractor squat !

 

[teg]

Might want to check the air pressure in those tires!!!

 

[captjack]

This is as simple as it gets - install rear pallet forks - back up to big ol chunk of oak - watch tractor squat !
View attachment 529932

 

[AWSubie]

I was thinking about making a ballast box but Titan had there's for sale at $219 and figured I couldn't make it for that. So now I'm the owner of a Titan ballast box. But I certainly did enjoy reading all about the innovative ideas on this thread.

 

[Chipy]

I've browsed this forum a bunch while figuring out how to design a ballast box. I thought I'd add pictures of mine.
I couldn't make myself pay $200+ for a ballast box when I knew I could build one for about $25. I grew up pouring concrete with my Dad's construction company so building the box was a no-brainer.

 

[kenlip]

Here you go, let me know if you need any more. the 4x4 steel angle go all the way to the embeded drawbar and fasten in with large bolts, the 2 inch fastens to the drawbar with a long 3/4 inch all thread, and welded to the 2 inch receiver, and then rebar welded at an angle on each side to the drawbar and the side of the 2 inch reciever for side to side stabilization.

James K0UA

Hi James,

I am in the process of copying your design - thanks for sharing.

For the holes in the angle for the pin for the toplink, how critical is sizing? I have an MX5100, which is a Cat-2. I have a 1" hole saw, which basically creates a zero-clearance hole for the 1" pin. I am worried that this could be problematic when trying to attach the ballast. The next size up hole-saw I have is 32mm (1.26"). This would allow easy insertion of the 1" pin. Would the 1/4" of 'oversize' be a problem?

Another option is to drill smaller holes - I may have a suitable drill bit or may be able to borrow one - and use the Cat-1 pin.

All opinions and advice will be appreciated.

Ken

 

[Oldoak]

I would use the 1" hole saw and ream the holes out with a file or burring tool or similar until you get the pin clearance you want.

 

[k0ua]

Hi James,

I am in the process of copying your design - thanks for sharing.

For the holes in the angle for the pin for the toplink, how critical is sizing? I have an MX5100, which is a Cat-2. I have a 1" hole saw, which basically creates a zero-clearance hole for the 1" pin. I am worried that this could be problematic when trying to attach the ballast. The next size up hole-saw I have is 32mm (1.26"). This would allow easy insertion of the 1" pin. Would the 1/4" of 'oversize' be a problem?

Another option is to drill smaller holes - I may have a suitable drill bit or may be able to borrow one - and use the Cat-1 pin.

All opinions and advice will be appreciated.

Ken

It would probably rattle a bit with the larger hole. I would drill the 1 inch hole and then take a rat tail file or in my case a dremel tool and a stone and open it up for easy clearance. This should only take a few minutes.

 

[k0ua]

I would use the 1" hole saw and ream the holes out with a file or burring tool or similar until you get the pin clearance you want.

Well, there you go...

 

[countrybumpkin]

I use the hole saws a lot when making pin attachments and they work just fine. If your concerned about it, take a piece of scrap steel, drill a test hole and see how the pin fits.

 

[aeblank]

As if your 1" hole saw runs true enough to not create an oversized hole anyway....

 

[kenlip]

Thanks, guys.

I drilled a test hole in some ply and the pin is a snug fit. Interestingly, the hole saw, a Makita brand, is marked 25mm. 1" is 25.4mm, so theoretically the hole should have been 0.4mm undersize. Adding to the 'confusion' is the fact that diameter of the teeth on the saw measure at 24.7mm.

So, it looks like hole saws are more of an approximate starting point than anything one can use for accurately sized holes.

I'll drill the holes with the 25mm hole saw and adjust with the Dremel or a file if/as required.

Ken

 

[Coyote machine]

I created my ballast box with my box blade. I filled two 55 gallon black plastic barrels with sand and laid them at about a 45 degree angle from the base of the BB toward the rear of the BB from the edge closest to the tractor's back end. The barrels are on either side of the support bar of the BB that connects to the top link of the tractor. So, I installed the barrels to my BB, by using 3" ratchet straps to hold both barrels to each other, and to the BB so neither barrel can move. This was done with the BB sitting on level ground, then each filled barrel was lifted into place by a HD nylon lifting strap, and put into place from my loader using my pallet forks and the strap. Then I attached my BB to it's 3PH and away I went. It works well, and only needs slight adjustments to the straps as necessary after they stretch some from being new. I can lower and raise the BB and use it with scarifiers or not, just as I would without the barrels for counterweight. No muss, no fuss, no welding or other drawbars, drilling or any effort other than filling both barrels with sand. Note they are sealed barrels- sand installed through factory bung holes.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I put on my cone fertilizer spreader, then fill with sand. When I am done, I just spin the sand out.

It works good in the winter because it gives me weight for pushing snow, but then I can sand the driveway and heavy haul roads if I need to as well.

Well worth the $100 I spent on it (used). New they are $400.

 

[Reg]

ONE way is to grab a few golf bag "tubes" to use for rake holders and rough wire them in place with coat hanger wire.
Then put 6 or 8 inches of gravel in, straighten them up again, add a few more inches of gravel, straighten them, repeat until they are stable.
In a very short time the gravel will shake down and pack TIGHT against the cross bar and top link attachment and hold them fast.

Not as heavy as concrete, but so much easier to do over if you want more rake holders or bigger ones.
If you don't add any drain holes you could top it up with water for a bit more weight.

Don't let the rake holder tubes fill up with water though.