A simple three point counterweight

[smoker]

Thanks k0ua, makes sense. I like the 55 gal drum idea with provision for handeled tools etc. Seems like there is never enough room for carrying extra stuff. smoker

 

[longshot47]

All the suggestions seem workable and the photos are great.
When I did mine [BB] I fussed around with locating the top link so as to keep things simpatico......until I decided to situate the drawbar above the center of gravity on the barrel....and omit the top link connection altogether. The barrel remains vertical in all positions, rests on the ground when the tractor is not in use and the capacity of the barrel to pivot on the pins offers some forgiveness in the event that I back into something.
One of these days I'll figure out the picture posting thing.

 

[scott_vt]

All the suggestions seem workable and the photos are great.
When I did mine [BB] I fussed around with locating the top link so as to keep things simpatico......until I decided to situate the drawbar above the center of gravity on the barrel....and omit the top link connection altogether. The barrel remains vertical in all positions, rests on the ground when the tractor is not in use and the capacity of the barrel to pivot on the pins offers some forgiveness in the event that I back into something.
One of these days I'll figure out the picture posting thing.

Good Afternoon Longshot47,
Im with you on that one, I used a 35 gallon steel barrel, about 700 lbs I believe, and situated my 7/8" bar just under the first rib down on the barrel. That thing hardly even moves, and I have taken it over some pretty rough terrain.

KOua, very nice job BTW !

 

[smoker]

I like the KISS method.." Keep it simple stupid" Above center of gravity and centered. That interests me the best. Still could use the PVC pipe for carrying some small tools. Perfect. Thank you Gentlemen. smoker

 

[k0ua]

I like the KISS method.." Keep it simple stupid" Above center of gravity and centered. That interests me the best. Still could use the PVC pipe for carrying some small tools. Perfect. Thank you Gentlemen. smoker

Just keep in mind, that the tractor shown above is quite large, and has a lot of lift on the 3pt. so attaching above the center of gravity was easy and still getting the ground clearance he wanted to achieve. On a smaller tractor, without as much lift distance in the 3pt. you may not be able to attach up that high to get above the center of gravity of the barrel to not need the top link and still get enough ground clearance

James K0UA

 

[J_J]

Very interesting ideas! Would like to fab something like that for my B9200 but am not sure how you folks determined how much weight to use. I lifted a 55 gal drum of fuel oil with the forks I built from plans on this site. Everything worked well but had the feeling I was at the limit for this tractor. I have loaded turf tires. Sure would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, smoker

I also have the Kubota B9200Hst, and the lifting weight on the 3pt is about 450. A 55 gal barrel of water weighs about 440 lbs. If you are going to use a 55 gal barrel, only fill it about 1/2, to 3/4 full of cement, and stick some 2 in PVC pipes in it for rakes, shovel, with a space for chain laying in the top.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for the compliment Scotty, I have enjoyed having it, and using it. It has been very handy to carry things, and helps keep my "rear end" on the ground where it belongs:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[Reg]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but why would someone consider hanging an ugly old barrel an a nice looking tractor?

But if I was going to build a barrel weight, I would consider a cat. 1 draw-bar and poke that through the barrel, and fill with cement. This would be stronger than re-bar as far as bending, and they only cost $20 or so.

Be careful so you don't make the thing to heavy for your tractor. There will be a lot of jerking around back there and you don't want to rip something off the rear end. I never heard of that happening, but I'm new here.
:thumbsup:

Because it is merely a functional WEIGHT !
That is WHAT it is, that is ALL it is.
I see no need to paint it to match a tractor sunshade with contrasting fringe around the edge.
It isn't part of the driveway ornament (-:

I doubt that many Cat 1 tractors would have a PROBLEM with 1/2 ton or so on the lift arms, many implements weigh more than that and the capacity of many Cat 1 tractors is well over a ton - IOW, not an issue.

 

[smoker]

Thank you J_J, that is the info I was looking for. I was unaware of the 450# capacity. My main use for the ballast is to counter balance the tractor when I have the forks and pallet installed. Someone can stand on the pallet with a chain saw and trim branches on my trees. So you think if I shoot for ~300#'s of ballast I should be OK? smoker

 

[moored4]

Someone can stand on the pallet with a chain saw and trim branches on my trees. So you think if I shoot for ~300#'s of ballast I should be OK? smoker

Boy are the SAFTY POLICE going to have fun with this one!!!:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I don't thank this is your best ideal

 

[smoker]

Not much difference between my setup and a bucket truck. Pallet has rails on three sides. Max height off the ground 4'. I would think it would be safer than standing on a ladder....

 

[Wacky]

Boy are the SAFTY POLICE going to have fun with this one!!!:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I don't thank this is your best ideal

I think I hear them coming now!!

 

[smoker]

I paid off the safety police so I'm good now . I'm using a 30 gallon barrel and am having a slight problem deciding on how to overcome the weight thing. My tractor a Kubota B9200 has a lift weight of 450 lbs. 22.5 gallons or 75% full is already at that weight. I want to use the above center idea to eliminate the third member. I'm worried that the amount of concrete above the tow bar won't be enough to support it. Thought of building up the bottom with some stone???? What's the best idea? Thanks folks, smoker

 

[SPYDERLK]

... Make a couple U shapes out of rebar to extend down into the concrete.
larry

 

[smoker]

Yep, that's an idea that would work. Thanks, smoker

 

[Scotty Dive]

Looking for some opinions....

I was thinking of putting a 2 inch square tube down the center and through both sides of the barrel and weld one end to a Draw bar. Also weld two vertical 2 inch flat bar or angle iron from the sqaure tube allowing for the top link attachment. I thought this would be easier to fabricate then welding a lot in a plastic barrel. The draw bar would be on the outside of the barrel. Do you think this would be strong enough? Or should I use some of the existing ideas and run the draw bar through the barrel and cement too?

Please look at the enclosed pdf drawing of what I thought it might look like - THANKS

 

[Deere Dude]

Looking for some opinions....

I was thinking of putting a 2 inch square tube down the center and through both sides of the barrel and weld one end to a Draw bar. Also weld two vertical 2 inch flat bar or angle iron from the sqaure tube allowing for the top link attachment. I thought this would be easier to fabricate then welding a lot in a plastic barrel. The draw bar would be on the outside of the barrel. Do you think this would be strong enough? Or should I use some of the existing ideas and run the draw bar through the barrel and cement too?

Please look at the enclosed pdf drawing of what I thought it might look like - THANKS

That may work. The only problem I can see is the weight of the barrel will be hanging about a foot or so farther back from the tractor. Just wondering?

 

[countrybumpkin]

About the only thing I can see I would add is a diagonal bar from the upright to the bottom bar just prior to were it exits the barrel for the receiver. That would help triangulate the uprights and the trailer hitch, The concrete will help also.

 

[k0ua]

Looking for some opinions....

I was thinking of putting a 2 inch square tube down the center and through both sides of the barrel and weld one end to a Draw bar. Also weld two vertical 2 inch flat bar or angle iron from the sqaure tube allowing for the top link attachment. I thought this would be easier to fabricate then welding a lot in a plastic barrel. The draw bar would be on the outside of the barrel. Do you think this would be strong enough? Or should I use some of the existing ideas and run the draw bar through the barrel and cement too?

Please look at the enclosed pdf drawing of what I thought it might look like - THANKS

Scotty did you use the 3pt calculator spreadsheet?, it is floating around here on the forum, holler if you want me to send you a copy. I am thinking that of course you did not include any dimensions, but just by going on the relative drawing, you might have a lot of tilt forward of the barrel if your toplink connection is that far aft of your lowerlink connection points. The 3pt calc sheet is a good tool, it is what I used to make mine. It takes a while to understand and make all the measurements, but I think it is worth it.
Here is a link:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ch-calculator-cant-3point-hitch-angles-ss.zip

James K0UA

 

[Scotty Dive]

James -

I looked at the spreadsheet but got a bit confused on what I needed to measure and what it actually would tell me.... All of those numbers made my head hurt...LOL

Couldn't I just adjust or purchase a shorter/longer top link to get the barrrel horizontal? Or weld a horizontal off of the two verticals that are to attach to the top link?