A simple three point counterweight

[crazyal]

I did the 55 gallon drum too. I used a set of 7/8 pins from TSC for the lower arms and just used some scrap steel to make a top clevis. I put the lower pins in the center of the barrel so it doesn't stick out too far. The pins are threaded and came with nuts. I welded the nuts to a section of pipe and placed it inside then filled the whole thing full of cement. I did have a bunch of bags of cement that had set up before being used that got tossed in.

 

[k0ua]

Got more photos??? Interested in how you did the Toplink... I'm going back and forth from 55 gal. drum to a loaded pallet.

Here you go, let me know if you need any more. the 4x4 steel angle go all the way to the embeded drawbar and fasten in with large bolts, the 2 inch fastens to the drawbar with a long 3/4 inch all thread, and welded to the 2 inch receiver, and then rebar welded at an angle on each side to the drawbar and the side of the 2 inch reciever for side to side stabilization.

James K0UA

 

[moored4]

KOua! You have got a real nice counter weight that is very funtional. Nice job!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

KOua! You have got a real nice counter weight that is very funtional. Nice job!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks, yep it makes a world of difference, and the storage for handle tools, and chains is very handy. I have started to use the 2 inch receiver, for the sprayer, after getting 12Volts on the back of the tractor. It was a fun build, all except the welding with my head inside the barrel. The temp was in the 90's when I did that, and keeping the helmet on with all the sweat, leaning over into the barrel was a challenge.

James K0UA

 

[20 20]

KOua: nice job but something just seems out of place, doesn't quite match

 

[k0ua]

KOua: nice job but something just seems out of place, doesn't quite match

So your thinking orange or gray?

 

[teg]

Awesome job... Thanks for the photos. I'm back to thinking the barrel is the way to go.

 

[wvpolekat]

How have you guys gone about getting them filled? Do you just take it to the concrete yard and let them pour it in there? Or just use sacks?

 

[crazyal]

I think it's about 10 80lb bags to fill a 55 gallon drum. But if you have rocks or old cement that's no good you can mix it in since you really don't care about strength. If you want to add PVC tubes like K0ua did the rocks would need to be placed a little more carefully.

 

[Mande1992]

kOua: Looks awesome, should look good on my L3400 as well Been thinking about something to hold shovels, chains, etc...

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for all the kind words.
I wired the 2 inch PVC to the rebar,for stability and put about 2 inches of 2 inch rock in the bottom before putting in the concrete. Don't know that it was necessary but was thinking it would allow any water to evaporate out thru the tubes. I mixed the concrete by putting in 2 sacks first then a little water and mixing with a bar of steel, repeat, procedure. I only used 8 sacks for 640 lbs. and the barrel weighed at least 100 lbs with all the steel, and rocks in the bottom. I understand that most of the water weight stays in the concrete as a hydrate. I wanted plenty of space in the top for storage, and it has been very handy for all sorts of tools, clothing and stuff. The hooks on the side are highly recommended also, as a place to hook your chains when still hooked to the drawbar on the tractor, and you are moving to your next tree, this keeps me from having to constantly bend over and unhook the chain. Also great place to hang buckets.

James K0UA

 

[countrybumpkin]

Great looking barrel, has anyone used one with a quick hitch?

 

[MrZukerman]

So I have a few questions, do you need to put some weep holes in the bottom of the barrel for the moisture to get out, or will the concrete dry fine with out them, seems to be a pretty thick amount of concrete to set up that way?? Also if I were to get 12 80 lbs bags of ready-mix at lowe's, will it still weight 960 lbs after you mix it and it sets up, or will it lose some weight? I really like the idea of the tubes for shovels or rakes etc. Does your barrel set out in the weather all the time or do you keep in inside when not used, looks like it would hold water on the top and in the tubes, mine will set out most of the time, don't have room for everything under roof, wish I did though.

 

[moored4]

I really like the idea of the tubes for shovels or rakes etc. It looks like it would hold water on the top and in the tubes, mine will set out most of the time,

I was thinking the same thing. I plan on using a plastic barrel cause I have a good supply of them, free. Where you put the top link into the barrel it will drain the top, it looks like, true that hole or if not then I will drill holes in the outer edge of the barrel at the top of the concrete. I plan on position my tubes in the barrel using about 6 or8 inches of grape fruit size rock so later the concrete will flow down around them. That way I can pick up the barrel with my tractor before filling with concrete and drill a hole at each tube location for drainage. When I pour I will support the barrel on bricks. I will start with 2 sacks and let them set up just a little bit. Then if any has gotten in to the tubes, then I can rinse it out the predrilled holes.

 

[k0ua]

So I have a few questions, do you need to put some weep holes in the bottom of the barrel for the moisture to get out, or will the concrete dry fine with out them, seems to be a pretty thick amount of concrete to set up that way?? Also if I were to get 12 80 lbs bags of ready-mix at lowe's, will it still weight 960 lbs after you mix it and it sets up, or will it lose some weight? I really like the idea of the tubes for shovels or rakes etc. Does your barrel set out in the weather all the time or do you keep in inside when not used, looks like it would hold water on the top and in the tubes, mine will set out most of the time, don't have room for everything under roof, wish I did though.

I did not put the weep holes, I though about it, and actually planned on doing it, but decided that the tubes vented it enough. No it is stored indoors, but i do have caps for the tubes in case caught out in the rain until I can get to the barn, or do have to store it out because something else is on the 3pt. The top will not hold water, it just drains out the top-link hole. I have also put 6 inch PVC in one front "corner" for chain managment, and put 1/2 moon holes for water drainage. Not only will it weigh the 960 lbs with 12 bags, but will weigh more as the water will be "locked" up as a hydrate compound from the reaction with the concrete, or so I am told.

James K0UA

 

[George2615]

Great looking barrel, has anyone used one with a quick hitch?

I made mine from a plastic 55 gallon barrel. Wont rust that way. Filled about 2/3 to 3/4 full (I think I used 9 -80 lb. bags of redi mix). The steel framework inside weighs about 50 lb. so I'm close to 800 lb.
And my Harbor Freight quick hitch holds it fine. I also drilled several 1/2" drain holes in the barrel at the cement level and have a lifting point at the top so I can move it with the loader. Barrel sits outside all the time.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Thanks for the pic, That was my main concern was the best way to fab a hitch so the quick hitch could hook to the top link.

 

[smoker]

Very interesting ideas! Would like to fab something like that for my B9200 but am not sure how you folks determined how much weight to use. I lifted a 55 gal drum of fuel oil with the forks I built from plans on this site. Everything worked well but had the feeling I was at the limit for this tractor. I have loaded turf tires. Sure would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, smoker

 

[smoker]

Looks like it should just the ticket. I'm still not sure how much weight to add. I didn't mention I have a loader attached. Is there a way to compute the proper weight to add to the barrell? smoker

 

[k0ua]

Looks like it should just the ticket. I'm still not sure how much weight to add. I didn't mention I have a loader attached. Is there a way to compute the proper weight to add to the barrell? smoker

Your manual should gave suggestions on rear ballast, but in general consider the weight your loader will lift and whether you have loaded tires or not. I have a loader that will lift about 1000 lbs, and have about 360 lbs in fluid and 750 lbs in rear ballast. That seems to work pretty well, the relief valve pops before the rears come up now. Obviously if you have a larger tractor with more loader capability, you would need a lot more, and likewise if you have a smaller tractor then less fluid and/or ballast.

James K0UA