Oil & Fuel A quick 5 gallon fuel container rant

[LBrown59]

I'll get some pictures this weekend.

Thanks that would be nice.

 

[3238dpw]

Amazon.com: Han-D-Pump: Sports & Outdoors
I use one of these for my 5 gallon can. It works great when it works. It is really pretty much junk as I have to constantly take it apart and put the plunger back into the groove on the shaft. When it comes off it will not pump fuel.

Does anyone know of a more comercial version?

 

[N80]

Okay, back to venting a ventless can. Let's say I plan to use a snap-in tubeless tire valve stem. Can you get the valve core out of a basic one? If so, how? Or, am I going to need the air/fluid type stems like on tractor tires?

 

[patrick_g]

Okay, back to venting a ventless can. Let's say I plan to use a snap-in tubeless tire valve stem. Can you get the valve core out of a basic one? If so, how? Or, am I going to need the air/fluid type stems like on tractor tires?

George, your kidding, right?

Take a valve stem cap, one with the little slot in the end and use the slot for a wrench to unscrew the valve core. Alternatively, if you have no valve caps with slots, take your pop-in tire valves to a tire shop and use one of theirs to unscrew the core.

I hope I understood your question......

Pat

 

[N80]

George, your kidding, right?

Sorry, not kidding. I've never removed or replaced a tubeless valve core except the air/fluid kind. Never knew you could or why you would. I'm just curious though, why would you ever remove a valve core? The whole valve stem and core cost almost nothing and are really easy to replace. I've done that before. Pop the whole thing out, pop a whole new one in. Never had the valve core fail in a tubed tire. But I could see where it would be good to be able to do it rather than buying a whole new tube if the core failed.

Take a valve stem cap, one with the little slot in the end and use the slot for a wrench to unscrew the valve core. Alternatively, if you have no valve caps with slots, take your pop-in tire valves to a tire shop and use one of theirs to unscrew the core.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I now see that you can buy a core removal tool for a buck or two.

I hope I understood your question......

Pat

You did and that was the answer I needed. Thanks.

 

[patrick_g]

Sorry, not kidding. I've never removed or replaced a tubeless valve core except the air/fluid kind. Never knew you could or why you would. I'm just curious though, why would you ever remove a valve core? The whole valve stem and core cost almost nothing and are really easy to replace. I've done that before. Pop the whole thing out, pop a whole new one in. Never had the valve core fail in a tubed tire. But I could see where it would be good to be able to do it rather than buying a whole new tube if the core failed.



Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I now see that you can buy a core removal tool for a buck or two.



You did and that was the answer I needed. Thanks.

George, If you remove a tire or the bead breaks down (comes unsealed from the rim as on a hand truck with a load on it but low tire pressure) removing the valve core will allow a much faster inflation rate in your attempt to get the tire to seal on the rim again. Valve cores are quite restrictive to flow and are typically removed at tire shops to save time when a worker is inflating a tire to check for leaks, reseal the bead etc. They will often inflate the tire, sans core, and put a valve cap on, find a leak using a water tank or hose or spray bottle of soap solution then pull the cap and get a fast deflation. By the end of the day the time saved inflating and deflating tires sans core will add up significantly.

I too have had very few valve core failures but... it only takes one to really ruin your day. When you air a tire it is always good to test for a leak through the core before you replace the cap. Excuse the indelicacy, please... most folks use a little spit for this.

Having a tool is nice but where will it be when you need it? Using valve caps with the tool on the end ensures you have a tool readily at hand any time it might be required and they are really cheap.

Now you know why so many valve caps had the two little projections. It wasn't just a fashion statement or a vestigial configuration left over from earlier times.

Pat

 

[LBrown59]

George, If you remove a tire or the bead breaks down (comes unsealed from the rim as on a hand truck with a load on it but low tire pressure) removing the valve core will allow a much faster inflation rate in your attempt to get the tire to seal on the rim again. Valve cores are quite restrictive to flow and are typically removed at tire shops to save time when a worker is inflating a tire to check for leaks, reseal the bead etc. They will often inflate the tire, sans core, and put a valve cap on, find a leak using a water tank or hose or spray bottle of soap solution then pull the cap and get a fast deflation. By the end of the day the time saved inflating and deflating tires sans core will add up significantly.

I too have had very few valve core failures but... it only takes one to really ruin your day. When you air a tire it is always good to test for a leak through the core before you replace the cap. Excuse the indelicacy, please... most folks use a little spit for this.

Having a tool is nice but where will it be when you need it? Using valve caps with the tool on the end ensures you have a tool readily at hand any time it might be required and they are really cheap.

Now you know why so many valve caps had the two little projections. It wasn't just a fashion statement or a vestigial configuration left over from earlier times.

Pat

I make sure I have at least one of these on each of my Pick ups , tractors and my yard and utility trailers.

 

[N80]

Thanks Patrick.

I can see where having a cap with a valve extraction slot makes sense; nothing to lose and a lot to gain.

However, in 30 years of driving (and more offroad than most), a good many years of mountain biking, and 3 years of tractoring, I've never had a valve core failure. I torn some stems off, but that wasn't a core failure. And in all those years of driving (cars and trucks), I've had a total of two flats! Both ripped out sidewalls offroad.

Patrick, I can see your point about getting a bead to seat, that makes sense and I've had trouble with my tractor fronts getting the bead to seat after driving it off the tire off the rim. End up having to use straps. So I guess I may get me a few of those caps myself.

 

[patrick_g]

Yeah, George, cheap insurance. What is the down side? maybe $1 invested with no return. BUT if you ever use one it will be worth way more.

Removing the core when trying to seat a bead can help since it lets air in so much faster.

Pat

 

[GinNB]

I've heard the "remove the core to seat the bead easier" trick before, but my air chucks won't let air into the stem without the core in there to depress the matching "core" in the air chuck. Must be a special chuck on some tire machines with no chuck core that only work on the pedal-operated air hoses, if you know what I mean.

 

[gemini5362]

It is a special chuck on tire machines. The chuck has nothing to seal the air from coming out of it, that is why they have a valve ahead of them that you activate to get air. Also if you are going to put slime or something like that in a tire you have to remove the core. I have not done it but I am assuming that you would havea to remove the core to add liquid to tire weights. I have had a tire shop put in the wrong type of valve core after they fixed the tire.

Just for your information the valve on tires is called a schrader valve here is a link to wikipedia to explain about them Schrader valve - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[LBrown59]

I've heard the "remove the core to seat the bead easier" trick before, but my air chucks won't let air into the stem without the core in there to depress the matching "core" in the air chuck. Must be a special chuck on some tire machines with no chuck core that only work on the pedal-operated air hoses, if you know what I mean.

Been there done that.

 

[LetsRoll]

LBrown59...Here are those pictures you requested.

 

[number two]

Nice outfit and nice shop.See you have a Rotary hoist,as do I.Best investment I've made in awhile-been nine years now.

 

[LetsRoll]

Nice outfit and nice shop.See you have a Rotary hoist,as do I.Best investment I've made in awhile-been nine years now.

Thanks, I've had my Rotary lift for about four years. Just used it tonight to sharpen my mower blades and clean the deck. Tomorrow, I get to change the oil. My lift has paid for itself. I really like having the option of using it. I cant tell you when the last time I've used my creeper. I've had all my vehicles, my zero turn mower, finish mower, 4-wheeler and my motorcycle on my lift. I havn't had my tractor on my lift let. I take that back, I've picked up the back of it when I put rear hydraulic remotes on it. I had to pull the right side tire to do the work.

Which lift do you have? I have the 10,000 lbs one. Not one ounce of troubles out of it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/lawn-garden/122431-how-do-you-guys-change.html

 

[Soundguy]

You can remove the valve core to increase air flow.. sometimes it helps to seat a troublesome bead. -especially- on a tubeless tire.

soundguy

Sorry, not kidding. I've never removed or replaced a tubeless valve core except the air/fluid kind. Never knew you could or why you would. I'm just curious though, why would you ever remove a valve core? The whole valve stem and core cost almost nothing and are really easy to replace. I've done that before. Pop the whole thing out, pop a whole new one in. Never had the valve core fail in a tubed tire. But I could see where it would be good to be able to do it rather than buying a whole new tube if the core failed.



Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I now see that you can buy a core removal tool for a buck or two.



You did and that was the answer I needed. Thanks.

 

[LetsRoll]

You guys should try using a Cheetah bead seater or a can of ether to seat a tire that has come off the rim.

Cheetah bead seater can be made out of a 20 lb propane tank. The cheapest way, use a can of ether and a BQ grill litter (one that has a long shaft).

TSI Cheetah Bead Seating Tool 6 Gallon Capacity, Model# CH-5 | Bead
Breakers | Northern Tool + Equipment

OK...I'm Off Topic...

 

[Soundguy]

I say a guy shoot the rim out of a tire and into the air about 60' using gas and a match to seat the bead.. left the smoking tire on the ground.

cheetah beed seaters work pretty good.. but just alotta air and bouncing the average tire works good to.. that or a ratchet strap..

soundguy

 

[LetsRoll]

I say a guy shoot the rim out of a tire and into the air about 60' using gas and a match to seat the bead.. left the smoking tire on the ground.
soundguy

Woow...that had to make some noise. I've never had a problem using ether. One just needs to know how much to spray inside the tire.

 

[patrick_g]

I've heard the "remove the core to seat the bead easier" trick before, but my air chucks won't let air into the stem without the core in there to depress the matching "core" in the air chuck. Must be a special chuck on some tire machines with no chuck core that only work on the pedal-operated air hoses, if you know what I mean.

Yes, I do know what you mean but my chucks all work with or without a valve core in place in the valve stem. No "pedal" involved. They were purchased variously at Camping World, HF, and NAPA. The latter two each has a gauge and a lever to press to release air. When not depressing the lever the gauge reads the pressure in the tire. When pressing the lever the gauge reads the pressure in the tire but slightly wrong due to line loss during heavy flow.

The Camping world chuck set up is a clip on self holding angle chuck plus on a separate hose a straight on push to engage self holding chuck. The two chucks are cross connected to each other so you can fill dual wheels at the same time and get the same pressure first time every time.

I think the little thing in the center of the chuck which depresses the valve core's center piece has a shoulder farther back in the chuck that hits the rim of the valve stem and lets air out. Not totally sure about this last part but it looks that way in the picture I have in memory.

There are also valve caps that have a check valve in them and you can air the tire directly THROUGH them. This is best for just "touching up" the pressure a bit. The extra restriction makes for a rather reduced flow rate and is not recommended for pumping up a totally, or nearly so, empty tire. These could certainly inhibit the sealing action trying to get the bead seated and sealed.

Chucks are cheap, I'd get one that didn't require the valve core to be in place.

Pat