Rock knocker
Veteran Member
It should handle that task
950, 5ft bushhog overheating
- Thread starter Anomic
- Start date
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It should handle that task
Rock knocker
Veteran Member
1) Bad fan clutch
2) Worn pump impellers
3) Bad stat
4) Dirty radiator
5) Bad injectors
6) Bad fuel pump
2) Worn pump impellers
3) Bad stat
4) Dirty radiator
5) Bad injectors
6) Bad fuel pump
mikehaugen
Elite Member
I agree that it should have plenty of power. You should not be able to overheat it unless it is constantly noticibly bogging down. I have more power, but I run a 6 footer and the temp never rises above normal except when I am mowing something with a lot of seeds that keep clogging up the screen. My tractor will bog down in the thick stuff long before overheating is an issue. You may have less power than the bigger brothers in that family but you also probably have the same radiator so there is less of a heat load on it.
As mentioned already, flush the system... your cooling system is not running at peak efficiency. Only other thing to check is maybe air filters and possibly exhaust blockage.
As mentioned already, flush the system... your cooling system is not running at peak efficiency. Only other thing to check is maybe air filters and possibly exhaust blockage.
ProScape
New member
If you eliminate all other possible causes first I have seen instances where the impellers on the water-pump disintegrate without the pump assemble leaking thus the pump cannot pump the appropriate volume of coolant. This is rare overall but possible especially if the unit is older and the water pump has been in service for an extended period of time. Usually when water pumps fail they leak but not always. If everything else has been ruled out maybe time for a new pump. Goodluck
ProScape
New member
Rock Knocker's list is spot on IMO!!! Make sure to throughly check the radiator as well and don't hesitate to take it to a radiator shop. Make sure yousolve this problem before you blow a head gasket!!!!
buickanddeere
Super Member
The fan belt and fan/waterpump pulley may appear ok and tight. Odds are the belt is glazed and is worn out of ture.If worn, no amount of tightening will make it drive withut slipping and bearing life will be measured in dozens instead of thousands of hours.
If you pull the sheet metal and fuel tank off. Odds are you will find a rad you thought was clean. is actually plugged with oily mud. Bent fins from somebody using a HP washer doesn't make cooling better either.
If there is any oil contamination in the coolant. The oil makes a slimy insulating film and foam that reduces cooling.
Coolant needs to be 50/50 HD diesel coolant and distilled water. Tap water does contain minerals even if it's been through a water softener. Even a thin film of minerals barely eough to see is an insulator.
What is the air temperature in the shade?
How do you know the engine is running hot? Boiling over over? Is the gauge between normal and hot, that is no problem? Is the gauge buried in the red? Failed gauges in machines of that vintage is very commom. Dunk that sending unit in water on an active rolling boil and find out the actual indicated reading.
210F is not really that how for a modern working diesel engine. It is a pressurized cooling system with a 50/50 mix.
Is the rad cap any good and holding 15psi?
Repair the brakes. It worries me that what else did some slob ignore when he ran it without brakes for how many years before you purchased the tractor?
Brakes (950/1050)
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
1 CH11253 Tube 2 X X
2 CH11255 Lever 1 X
CH13128 Lever 1 X (NLA)
3 CH11251 Housing 1 X
CH13126 Housing 1 X
4 CH11252 Gasket 2 X X
5 CH11249 Brake Drum 2 X NLA
CH13124 Brake Drum 2 X
6 CH11247 Brake Shoe 4 X
CH13123 Brake Shoe 4 X
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
7 CH11248 Spring 4 X X
8 CH11256 Shaft 2 X
CH13129 Shaft 2 X (NLA)
9 CH11250 Housing 1 X (NLA)
CH13125 Housing 1 X (NLA)
10 12M7066 Lock Washer 8 X X 10 mm
11 19M7167 Cap Screw 8 X M10 X 25
19M7550 Cap Screw 8 X M10 X 35 (HS=10.9)
12 CH11565 Packing 2 X X
13 CH11257 Washer 4 X X M10
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
14 19M7167 Cap Screw 4 X M10 X 25
19M7550 Cap Screw 4 X M10 X 35 (HS=10.9)
15 CH11254 Lever 1 X
CH13127 Lever 1 X
16 14M7276 Nut 2 X X M16
17 12M7069 Lock Washer 2 X X 16 mm
18 24M7053 Washer 2 X X 17 X 30 X 3 mm
If you pull the sheet metal and fuel tank off. Odds are you will find a rad you thought was clean. is actually plugged with oily mud. Bent fins from somebody using a HP washer doesn't make cooling better either.
If there is any oil contamination in the coolant. The oil makes a slimy insulating film and foam that reduces cooling.
Coolant needs to be 50/50 HD diesel coolant and distilled water. Tap water does contain minerals even if it's been through a water softener. Even a thin film of minerals barely eough to see is an insulator.
What is the air temperature in the shade?
How do you know the engine is running hot? Boiling over over? Is the gauge between normal and hot, that is no problem? Is the gauge buried in the red? Failed gauges in machines of that vintage is very commom. Dunk that sending unit in water on an active rolling boil and find out the actual indicated reading.
210F is not really that how for a modern working diesel engine. It is a pressurized cooling system with a 50/50 mix.
Is the rad cap any good and holding 15psi?
Repair the brakes. It worries me that what else did some slob ignore when he ran it without brakes for how many years before you purchased the tractor?
Brakes (950/1050)
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
1 CH11253 Tube 2 X X
2 CH11255 Lever 1 X
CH13128 Lever 1 X (NLA)
3 CH11251 Housing 1 X
CH13126 Housing 1 X
4 CH11252 Gasket 2 X X
5 CH11249 Brake Drum 2 X NLA
CH13124 Brake Drum 2 X
6 CH11247 Brake Shoe 4 X
CH13123 Brake Shoe 4 X
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
7 CH11248 Spring 4 X X
8 CH11256 Shaft 2 X
CH13129 Shaft 2 X (NLA)
9 CH11250 Housing 1 X (NLA)
CH13125 Housing 1 X (NLA)
10 12M7066 Lock Washer 8 X X 10 mm
11 19M7167 Cap Screw 8 X M10 X 25
19M7550 Cap Screw 8 X M10 X 35 (HS=10.9)
12 CH11565 Packing 2 X X
13 CH11257 Washer 4 X X M10
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 850 950 1050 REMARKS
14 19M7167 Cap Screw 4 X M10 X 25
19M7550 Cap Screw 4 X M10 X 35 (HS=10.9)
15 CH11254 Lever 1 X
CH13127 Lever 1 X
16 14M7276 Nut 2 X X M16
17 12M7069 Lock Washer 2 X X 16 mm
18 24M7053 Washer 2 X X 17 X 30 X 3 mm
I was a able to adjust the brakes with the nuts on the linkages and they are working now. The pedals just where out of adjustment.
So using my little thermometer next time im mowing heavy stuff what temp is considered danger zone? And where should i measure on the top of the block?
I have no signs of overheating whatsover except the idiot light. The tractor runs nice and smooth and only "bogs" a tiny bit when i make my turn and start on the hill but it catches up under a second just blows out a bit of smoke and slow a bit
So using my little thermometer next time im mowing heavy stuff what temp is considered danger zone? And where should i measure on the top of the block?
I have no signs of overheating whatsover except the idiot light. The tractor runs nice and smooth and only "bogs" a tiny bit when i make my turn and start on the hill but it catches up under a second just blows out a bit of smoke and slow a bit
buickanddeere
Super Member
Time to dunk the idiot light sender switch connected to an ohm meter in a pot of constantly stirred water on the stove. Stir with a candy thermometer.
220F is time to get concerned but don't panic until 230F.
220F is time to get concerned but don't panic until 230F.
MarkV
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,698
- Location
- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
- Tractor
- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
Just because it hasn't been mentioned...did the previous owner use anti-freeze?
MarkV
MarkV
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2001
- Messages
- 24,646
- Location
- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
Yep, antifreeze is normally green and you don't want to use 100% antifreeze....normally a 50-50 mix with water.
So, what have you done so far to troubleshoot the overheating problem? You've got a lot of suggestions...
Y'know...not to be harsh, but if you didn't know the color of antifreeze, it might be you don't have the mechanical aptitude to troubleshoot and correct this problem. It might be cheaper ("cheaper" being a relative term when it comes to a Deere)to have a professional look into it.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Was mentioned yesterday at 9:07PM.
It is amazing that there are people out there that think tap water is perfectly acceptable coolant.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Have you tested both the freeze point and the corrosion inhibiter level of the coolant?
MarkV
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,698
- Location
- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
- Tractor
- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
Rock knocker
Veteran Member
Fixed it!
Thats what im thinking especially since i dont have alot of tools either. I have the cooling issue (need to check havent measured block at over 210 so maybe just a guage), and that front end is still leaking. Smeone posted the parts and an exploding diagram but it looks to be beyond my level. By the time i buy the tools and waste time maybe a shop will be cheaper. I can make 55$ overtime up to about 10hours a week and shop time is usually about 100$? And they will finish way faster. Factor in tools ill have to buy might be cheaper to have them work on it.
megaboz
Platinum Member
As someone less mentioned before check the belts. Also somewhere I thought i read where you running at a lower RPM, if that is the case, then that could actually be a problem.
Radiator could be plugged, water pump might be worn radiator cap not holding pressure. Low oil, bad oil, clogged oil cooler assuming it has one.
Radiator could be plugged, water pump might be worn radiator cap not holding pressure. Low oil, bad oil, clogged oil cooler assuming it has one.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Well, aside from all the great advise you have gotten,
How does the tractor sound when you are mowing??? Does it sound like it is under alot of load, and RPM bogging?? You mentioned mowing in 6th gear, which is 5.5MPH on your tractor, and thats pretty quick for the size and HP you have with that cutter.
I know you said it did it in other gears too, but is that before or after you already had it warmed up goon and hot after mowing in 6th, and dropping to 2 or 3 it just couldnt keep up?
But if it were mine, a good cooling system flush is where I would start...
How does the tractor sound when you are mowing??? Does it sound like it is under alot of load, and RPM bogging?? You mentioned mowing in 6th gear, which is 5.5MPH on your tractor, and thats pretty quick for the size and HP you have with that cutter.
I know you said it did it in other gears too, but is that before or after you already had it warmed up goon and hot after mowing in 6th, and dropping to 2 or 3 it just couldnt keep up?
But if it were mine, a good cooling system flush is where I would start...
crashz
Elite Member
I have a 770 that spins a 5 ft bush hog all day in 3 ft tall fields. In fact, it has done so over the weekend in 95 degree heat with no problems. Has always done so since i've owned it (10 yrs).
With that said, i changed the belt, coolant, hoses, coolant temp sensor and thermostat about 5 years ago just for preventative maintenance. The machine was almost 20 years old and all original. The radiator and thermostat housing were corroded and plugged with a white sediment that looked like a couple of pints of beach sand. The parts were relatively cheap, even from John Deere and it only took a couple hours including oil, filters and a thorough cleaning.
With that said, i changed the belt, coolant, hoses, coolant temp sensor and thermostat about 5 years ago just for preventative maintenance. The machine was almost 20 years old and all original. The radiator and thermostat housing were corroded and plugged with a white sediment that looked like a couple of pints of beach sand. The parts were relatively cheap, even from John Deere and it only took a couple hours including oil, filters and a thorough cleaning.
