'69 Ford 3000 Water Pump

[SoGeorgia]

Good afternoon. Anyone have any tips or tricks to make a water pump replacement go any faster/smoother on a '69 Ford 3000?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Soundguy]

? have someone do it for you?

the tinwork will be MOST of the work. the water pump itself is straightforward...

I reccomend repalcing hoses and coolant at this time unless they are new.. as well as thermostat. good time to clean out radiator core as well as backflush the block.

use a good fleet / sca/dca coolant if it's a diesel... don't hurt even if it doesn't specifically need it.

great time to tap on some freeze plugs too and see if any of them are paper thin.. i have seen PAINT holding some together.. would hate to waste coolan cuz a rotten plug let go.. etc..

repalce the fan belt unless good / new as well.

 

[SoGeorgia]

? have someone do it for you?

the tinwork will be MOST of the work. the water pump itself is straightforward...

I reccomend repalcing hoses and coolant at this time unless they are new.. as well as thermostat. good time to clean out radiator core as well as backflush the block.

use a good fleet / sca/dca coolant if it's a diesel... don't hurt even if it doesn't specifically need it.

great time to tap on some freeze plugs too and see if any of them are paper thin.. i have seen PAINT holding some together.. would hate to waste coolan cuz a rotten plug let go.. etc..

repalce the fan belt unless good / new as well.

Thanks brother.. I appreciate it.

 

[3000disaster]

I finally got my hydraulics straightened out, bus hogged for about 3 hours and my water pump went out!

Not to hijack, but can you replace the water pump without taking the radiator off?

 

[SoGeorgia]

I finally got my hydraulics straightened out, bus hogged for about 3 hours and my water pump went out!

Not to hijack, but can you replace the water pump without taking the radiator off?

You have to remove the radiator. The good news is I had the hood, front end, radiator and water pump off in an hour.

That being said, now I have other unrelated issues to post on when I get a chance this morning.

 

[3000disaster]

I have the hood off, one radiator bolt out, and the other is just spinning? Anybody have any ideas on how to get this Bolt off, I think it is an aft market carriage head, that's spinning?


Does the hood need to come off to remove the radiator?

 

[SoGeorgia]

I have the hood off, one radiator bolt out, and the other is just spinning? Anybody have any ideas on how to get this Bolt off, I think it is an aft market carriage head, that's spinning?

Does the hood need to come off to remove the radiator?

I took my hood off. I don't think I could have gotten to everything with it on.

Are you talking about the bolt at the bottom of the radiator that goes straight down? I didn't look that close but I don't think you can get to the head of it.

My new water pump works great! It pumps ALL the water out of the hole in the radiator I found when I got stuck on the stump!

Oh, I also have a fuel problem now. It won't start. I have a new fuel shutoff and spin on fuel filter adapters coming. I guess then I'll find out the fuel pump is bad as well.

 

[Soundguy]

if you can hold the head wit a small prybar and get it.. it might work.. otherwise neuter it.

 

[zombie]

I just changed the water pump in my tractor. From what I've gathered it's a 3500 industrial. I don't know how much different it is from a 3000, but I didn't need to pull the radiator out to change it. Pulled the front support from the block to the nose, air intake hose, left the fan sitting in the shroud, a little wiggling and it came right out. Have any pictures?

 

[SoGeorgia]

I just changed the water pump in my tractor. From what I've gathered it's a 3500 industrial. I don't know how much different it is from a 3000, but I didn't need to pull the radiator out to change it. Pulled the front support from the block to the nose, air intake hose, left the fan sitting in the shroud, a little wiggling and it came right out. Have any pictures?

I'm not saying it's not possible but it looked too tight in there for me to attempt it.. In the end it only took me an hour to get the hood, front end, radiator and water pump off.

 

[zombie]

Good deal. I was doing everything I could to avoid having to pull the front apart. Mine has a loader on it. Did you get it all up and running?

 

[SoGeorgia]

Good deal. I was doing everything I could to avoid having to pull the front apart. Mine has a loader on it. Did you get it all up and running?

Nope! Have to take it back apart to fix the radiator now

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I have found removing too much is faster than not removing enough.

The nice thing is these kinds of jobs should be the last time it will have to be done in our life time. :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

I have found removing too much is faster than not removing enough.

The nice thing is these kinds of jobs should be the last time it will have to be done in our life time. :thumbsup:

yep.. noting like damaging a multi hundred dollar rad trying to install a 75$ water pump..

 

[zombie]

Normally that's my attitude too, but after looking at the hardnose on mine, I was bound and determined not to have to pull all that off lol.

 

[3000disaster]

It's ironic that I have found this thread as it seems we are in the same boat with "The best
all purpose tractor" out there!

Saturday am,Drove 1 hr , purchased water pump , started on tractor after halftime of Alabama game.

I removed my water pump after finally getting a stuck carriage bolt, drilled, hammered, and chiseled off. Took the better entire 2nd half to get all hoses, water pump off.


Replaced pump this morning, put a new belt on as well, adjusted generator
Reinstalled radiator, changed oil, filter, breather oil. Put water and coolant back in and the **** thing was leaking! Cranked tractor, pump and hoses all fine, undo everything again.

Removed radiator again, found leak around the where the lower radiator hose attaches, small hairline fracture against the base of rad. Ran to parts store got some JB Weld and coated the crack at the base, I hope this works!!!

Will check it tomorrow!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

It is time to drop it off at a radiator shop and get it checked out and fixed right. I have got to the point if an old radiator gets pulled I have it checked. It normally cost $25 for a pressure and flow testing and well cleaned on the outside.
The 800 series was bad about vibration cracks I remember.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd solder it.. not jb weld it.

that's an expensive machine to loose to a leaky rad that you may not notice.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Ford Tractor Radiator - EONN8005MD15M