5ft brush hog on a 25hp compact

[caleb90]

So long story short, i decided to keep it and fix it up. Machine seems to handle it ok and the sturdyness of the deck made it seem worth while.. ordered a new blade pan,bolts and blades. Took a blade to tsc to try and match one up the best i can. I dont even know if they were the correct blades to begine with. Ended up ordering king cutter 24x3x1/2 blades with a 2in offset. While i had it apart i spun the gear box, and it had some roughness. So i tore that down, had one bad input bearing and was full of sludge. So i knocked the bearings out to get part numbers and soaked every thing in gas to clean the cases. Gearbox is an old ag312 input seal is size 1.375 X 3.350 X .468. And the bearings are nachi #6208 .. whats the best place to try and find that stuff?

 

[California]

Ask a transmission rebuilder where they get bearings and seals. Or better, a truck repair shop if there is one nearby.

Those are very likely universal parts, not something unique. Maybe even listed on Amazon. Here's the bearing:

Amazon.com

Looking a little farther - you may need to search using the metric dimensions of that seal.

 

[caleb90]

Bearings was an easy find. 40x80x18 mm .. 4 pack on amazon for 22bucks... seal is proving to be difficult.. found one on howes equipment.. 54 bucks... ya right

 

[2manyrocks]

Input seal on Amazon out of stock, but perhaps your local auto parts place has it. https://www.amazon.com/TCM-13334SA-...341&sprefix=1.375+x+3.350+seal,aps,324&sr=8-3

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

For my area, there's still a couple old guys working at the local Napa store that know how to look up generic parts out of books (not just a computer with "make, model, year").

That's probably where I would start if it was me, the local Napa store.

 

[caleb90]

Timken

450492​

 

[Fields_mj]

I have an OLD Ford 1710 and I pull a very heavy 5' bushhog with it. Technically, its somewhere in the 27hp to 29hp range. I don't deal with a lot of slopes, and my tires are loaded. I've never had to go to the slowest gear with it. The 1710 is nice because it has 4 ranges. I normally bushog in the 2nd range. Whether I'm in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear depends on what I'm mowing over. I've been down into the 1st range with it (normally 3rd gear), but its rare. I'm mowing CRP ground. Some of it got out of hand before I started mowing it (contracted farmer was SUPPOSED to be maintaining it). It had a lot of saplings in it. If I could bend it over with the bucket, I the tractor and bush hog had no problems with it. That's when I would slow down to the first range, just to give the machine time to hack everything up. For thick briars and weeds, 2nd range, 2nd gear is the sweet spot for me, which is actually moving along and a pretty reasonable pace for a bush hog. I know people who mow their yards at about the same speed.

 

[JT White]

I have a Yanmar 2310 compact tractor that I pull and lift my 5ft bush hog. I do however have wights on the front which I'm sure help with lift. I run it at 2300 rpm's with it's pto in gear two, so it don't spin it to fast and run the tractor in second gear as well. I mow 4-5 acres with no problems. So it works well for me. So keep your 5ft bush hog, it will work for you I would think.

 

[350c]

i have a tym t25 and i just picked up an old 5ft brush hog tonight. Thing is heavy built, deck is way thicker than the new entry units at tsc and rural king. That being said first i need to make sure the 3pt will lift it and the tractor handles it well. Second is if i have enough motor and if the tractors gear box will handle it. One would think it should as the old ford 8n's and farmal's had less hp and would run them fine. But those old tractors were built heavyer and bigger than these new compacts. Thoughts?

There are a lot of farmers on here with much more experience than I have, but a couple of comments:
1) rotary mower can easily “push” a light tractor down too-steep slopes, making it uncontrollable at times (from experience!);
2) personal preference would be a pull or trail type mower—regardless of size, a rotary mower shakes the dickens out of a tractor if connected with 3-pt (even top link loose), a lot less if simply connected by drawbar. Not as convenient to use, but easier on your tractor. Problem: trying to find an affordable trail type less than 7’; not sure why. I’d expect a lot of “farmers” (not sure I qualify with my current 6+ acres ) with smaller tractors would prefer. You can find “finish” mowers, but with warning of “lawn grass only”.

 

[MidwestMike]

I was aware of the HP to mower size ratio, but dealer told me to go with 5' on my little 24 HP B2650.
5 years, plenty of slopes and I never wished I was went smaller.

 

[Jaygyver]

I bought a 5' Sitrex finish mower (just under 500lbs) when I bought my JD770 (geared, 24 hp, 19hp pto) some 25 years ago for my 5 ish acres, 2/3 flatish and 1/3 hilly. It's basically one step above a Sub compact today but it does have the heavy frame and I never had any problems. I have never taken the loader off so I always had enough room to maneuver around stuff and it will take down up to 2" saplings. It will slow the mower (not so much the tractor) in the wetter areas where the grass grows faster but if I want to have a better cut I drop into 3rd gear Low for that area.
Things I have found out:
As been mentioned try to engage the PTO for anything at the lowest speed possible.
I have R1 tires on it and you CAN slide sideways on a hill if your not careful. (I can't use "Beet Juice" as the ground is too wet/muddy most of the time). In the summer I could drive my old semi tractor in my field and you couldn't hardly see the tracks but in the wet season I have buried the JD almost to the axle, thank goodness for the bucket and 4x4! Well, with help one time with the wife and Bronco.
Beware of the ground your driving on, when I drive/mow around my hilly areas I use my seat belt all the time. I had been mowing this one brushy area on a hill for almost 10 years and one day I hit a dip/hole I guess I had missed all those years and the front tire went in and I went over. It was that quick. No injury's or damage other then my pride.

 

[sararook]

And what type of material you plan to cut.

I have a B2920. 29hp. I would never consider a 5' bush hog. I've mowed overgrown pastures basically you couldn't walk through and were over my head. The 4' heavy-duty I have got it done but it was at capacity.

There's no way I could've done it with a 5'. I've done alot of mowing of easy fields and I'm able to gear it up and get done without overloading the mower. Leave the 5' mower for someone else. These tractors are not built to be overloaded. One foot = 7hp. 4 foot mower. 4x7= 28hp. I have a 29hp tractor so mine is matched perfectly. Good luck!

 

[Hodado]

Couldn't find the broken half of the blade? It likely went flying aerodynamically, like a boomerang. Look farther away. But replace it, it could be deadly if welded back and used some more.

If you have 18 hp at the PTO, there are people running a 5 ft rotary mower but you may need to take a lighter cut uphill or with heavy material.

My 18 pto hp Yanmar with 4 ft rotary mower occasionally requires taking a half-width cut under heavy conditions. Even so, I wish I had bought a 5 ft for its greater productivity.

Photo - the only time I overestimated and had to back up and try again at less width. Uphill, wet dense grass, was running at considerably less than pto engine rpm so maybe 14 pto hp.

My little 855jd has enough pto power with a heavy 5’ brush hog but a heavier tractor with more hp would definitely be better

 

[Doug Vee]

My little 855jd has enough pto power with a heavy 5’ brush hog but a heavier tractor with more hp would definitely be better

I am equipped with the same equipment and have been for over 20 years. The front end loader helps with the stability, but it would be better with ballasted tires. Otherwise, the power of the 855 is plenty.

Doug

 

[johneking]

i have a tym t25 and i just picked up an old 5ft brush hog tonight. Thing is heavy built, deck is way thicker than the new entry units at tsc and rural king. That being said first i need to make sure the 3pt will lift it and the tractor handles it well. Second is if i have enough motor and if the tractors gear box will handle it. One would think it should as the old ford 8n's and farmal's had less hp and would run them fine. But those old tractors were built heavyer and bigger than these new compacts. Thoughts?

Here's my "two cents worth":
In/around 1995 I bought a 1991 Kubota B20 from a local equipment rental company. It had about 1500 hours on it {as I remember} and one can imagine that those who rented it weren't too interested in its care! Does "rode hard/put away wet" ring any bells?!
I bought a WELL USED 5' Bush Hog to use at my hunting camp and was told my 17/20 HP tractor wouldn't be enough machine.
Being one of those who had to have "things" proved instead of going by what others say -- I welded it back into working condition, new/added supports, new blades etc. -- the Stump Jumper was SOOOO loose the blade tips would hit the underside and had actually chewed holes/slits/dents in the deck from basically flopping around when on -- I was amazed the guy had been using it and the only reason he was selling it was due to just buying a new 7' Bush Hog for his Ford tractor. As you mentioned, the newer ones aren't near the quality of the older ones -- his new 7' BH lasted him less than 5 years!
So -- my tractor is a 17 HP Kubota and will produce 20 HP when running implements -- supposedly! I have never put it on a machine to see as I don't really care.
After selling my asphalt business in 1998 at age 49 {retired? -- HA!} I decided to start Bush Hogging/Minor Land Clearing and I have done quite a bit when I choose to -- IF I did it for a living -- I wouldn't! {Bush Hog and minor Clearing - farm & garden services - craigslist}
My Kubota B20 with my 5' Bush Hog has no problem mowing/cutting/chewing up just about anything -- BUT -- hard wood saplings over about 1" to 1 1/2" and even those get pushed down with the loader bucket then drove over!
I've got videos of 14'/15' tall vegetation before/after that doesn't stand a chance with me -- again, I am not cutting acreage {usually 3 to 5 acres is my limit as I don't push my machine -- unless it's steep, I'm in 2nd gear and have a Hydrostat so I watch temperatures close.
As I'm in central Arkansas it gets HOT/humid in the summer months and I would build an enclosure and install AC -- but a 17/20 HP won't handle it along with implements -- so I will sometimes pass on a "project" if it's too hot, too steep, too thick etc.
As I will turn 72 in May and have repaired just about everything I've owned -- less all the crap that is computer operated! -- I don't worry too much about having to weld something back together.
All this being said -- unless you're going to cut/mow/Bush Hog 5,10,20 acres or more on a regular basis, your 25 HP will handle a 5' Bush Hog based on my experience with mine.
Here's one final thought -- ever use one of those old PUSH rotary lawn mowers {or even a regular mower} to mow grass in your yard? If you let the grass get too high -- you probably have to go slower and maybe even go over it twice.
Same with Bush Hogging.

i have a tym t25 and i just picked up an old 5ft brush hog tonight. Thing is heavy built, deck is way thicker than the new entry units at tsc and rural king. That being said first i need to make sure the 3pt will lift it and the tractor handles it well. Second is if i have enough motor and if the tractors gear box will handle it. One would think it should as the old ford 8n's and farmal's had less hp and would run them fine. But those old tractors were built heavyer and bigger than these new compacts. Thoughts?

 

[Up to the Axles]

If it's cutting HP that's the limiting factor, can you buy a 4" blade and use it? Yes, can't cut close to a fence, etc. but cheaper than another hog.

 

[bmaverick]

i have a tym t25 and i just picked up an old 5ft brush hog tonight. Thing is heavy built, deck is way thicker than the new entry units at tsc and rural king. That being said first i need to make sure the 3pt will lift it and the tractor handles it well. Second is if i have enough motor and if the tractors gear box will handle it. One would think it should as the old ford 8n's and farmal's had less hp and would run them fine. But those old tractors were built heavyer and bigger than these new compacts. Thoughts?

If your TYM T25 is a diesel, then you could even run with a 6FT stump jumper King Kutter brush mower. I'm doing this now with a 26Hp PTO on a Yanmar YM2610.

 

[caleb90]

Well got it back together today. Left the output bearings alone, they had a little grumble to them but will tackle that battle when they fail. New input bearings and seal, what i found odd was after reassembly i had two tight spots 180° from each other. Either the gear isnt flat and or the machining isnt perfect. Have proper gear lash so im hoping it will wear in. Biggest dissapointment was that the new input seal leaks, put it on with part numbers out so it should be good. Using 00 grease for lube and after 20 min of use it started pushing out. Maybe i overfilled and i built pressure? Might try to find a plug with a vent. So 260 for the unit when i bought it, 100 for the blade pan, 90 for the blades, 42 for blade bolts, 25 for the bearings, 24 for the seal, 20 for new pins and hardware. So aprox 561 for a 5ft brush hog thats better built than the new tin junk they make now

 

[rodneyn]

Well got it back together today. Left the output bearings alone, they had a little grumble to them but will tackle that battle when they fail. New input bearings and seal, what i found odd was after reassembly i had two tight spots 180° from each other. Either the gear isnt flat and or the machining isnt perfect. Have proper gear lash so im hoping it will wear in. Biggest dissapointment was that the new input seal leaks, put it on with part numbers out so it should be good. Using 00 grease for lube and after 20 min of use it started pushing out. Maybe i overfilled and i built pressure? Might try to find a plug with a vent. So 260 for the unit when i bought it, 100 for the blade pan, 90 for the blades, 42 for blade bolts, 25 for the bearings, 24 for the seal, 20 for new pins and hardware. So aprox 561 for a 5ft brush hog thats better built than the new tin junk they make now

You are correct on breather also pay attention to lube used. Some lubes build pressure under heat where breather is needed. I have in the past heated oil and put in gear box to assure if it’s expanding it will happen after heated. When cooled it may fall beneath check plug which is ok. You’re right the older units were built very heavy as steel and transportation was far less expensive. Recycling is smarter this day and age provided parts can be found. It can Save money for other farm expenses that arise. Farmers are thrifty people to assure longevity of the farm.

 

[RSKY]

The owners manual on my Kioti ck20S states that a 4' mower max with a manual and a 5' max on a hydro tractor. The dealer said that with a hydro if the tractor starts lugging you can just let up on the go pedal. I have ran a 5' for years with no problems. BUT, would make sure back tires loaded and wouldn't use without a loader or front end weights.

RSKY