5 acres - Subcompact vs Compact & Suggestions

[newbury]

I would also like to buy some of my neighbors land because I have probably 60+ acres of woods around me.

You've got a decent lawnmower. Calculate what you might get on sale or trade in and figure out if it's worth it. Then get a 25HP tractor for the future for the big chores and skip paying $2 or $3K for a MMM. You'll need the ground clearance.

 

[dragoneggs]

Unless your property is 'pristine' having a belly mower on your tractor is a headache. The pretty commercials so a MMM on a tractor on a manicured yard. How many times do you see a MMM going through the woods? .... .... Never. Two dedicated machines. Don't try to compromise and do it with one. Just basing this on your terrain description which is similar to mine.

 

[chim]

We have 3-1/2 acres of yard that has been mowed with a MMM for two years and then RFM's for the last 26. The RFM's are easy on and off for using other rear implements and they provide excellent additional ballast when using the loader. It takes just under 1-1/2 hours to cut the grass with a 6-footer at a reasonable pace.

 

[jeff9366]

For five acres either a subcompact or compact tractor will serve. 4-WD should provide traction on your sloped land with R4/industrial tires.

Have you performed your own service on your L&G Tractor? If so, you can perform routine service on either a subcompact or compact tractor.

Subcompact tractors with a Mid Mount Mower have about 3" or ground clearance with mower attached, 9" ground clearance with mower removed. Removing and replacing MMM is easier than in the past but still not fun. Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements.

Compact tractors of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts and usually have three-range (3) HST transmissions. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Either a subcompact or compact tractor will operate a MMM equally well. The longer wheelbase compact will be a smidgeon less maneuverable.

If you can afford a 1,600 - 1,800 pound Compact, go for it. If you consider Kubota, focus on the B2650.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel and Three Point Hitch ballast third.

The MMM is a inferior mowing option IMO. MMMs cost close to a used ZTR and get in the way of doing anything else. The loader also gets in the way of mowing.

I too recommend a Zero Turn Mower for lawn mowing. Or keep your L&G tractor and skip new tractor MMM. Instead, acquire a Bush Hog with your new tractor for trails and your meadow.


VIDEO: Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube

 

[dodge man]

I think people are giving you bad advice trying to steer you away from a mid mount. I have been using one for years. A three point would be fine for open ground but not as great when mowing around stuff. When you turn away from something the deck swings into the object. You also not only have the front tires mashing the grass down before you cut it but the rears to.

I just bought a JD 2025r and in my opinion the only real advantage of a JD is the auto connect deck. It comes off and back on in a couple of minutes.

 

[KennyG]

I'm not a fan of subcompacts because of the limited ground clearance and 3 point lift. I'm very happy with my MMM. It's a drive over, not auto-connect but it's very easy to install and remove. I considered a rear mower, but was concerned about the increased "tracking".

I am fortunate to have a very good JD dealer and my cost was essentially the same as similar Kubota and New Holland tractors. For me, the JD just feels a lot better to operate. After 9 trouble free years, even if it had cost more, that would be far in the rear view mirror. Get the tractor you really want.

 

[Egon]

In the past a Kubota B7100 HST (16 HP ) with loader and mid mount mower has worked for me in similar circumstances. In view of that a tractor of 20 to 30 HP should work well for you.

At present a JD 4200 with a backhoe & midpoint serves me well.

 

[nards444]

Kind of in the same boat as your in terms of land and what I want to do. JD and Kubota are nice tractors and nothing against them, but they are anywhere from 20-40% more, as good as they are I am not sure for the use that somebody like you would be doing, you would ever realize the cost or in other terms take advantage of it.

Ive narrowed my search to Kioti and TYM, which by the way TYM makes the RK, TYMs spec for spec actually are better than most of the top brands, I say that on paper at least, by all account I dont see many issues reported by TYM owners.

As for the mower, Ive borrowed a tractor with a MMM, not even close to zero turn, and really not any different than a beefy lawn tractor, think your playing a zero sum game when it comes to mowing. IMO tractors are great for mowing if your mowing acres upon acres with a tow behind.

 

[check 6]

For what it is worth dept. Years ago I went from a BX tractor to an open B2650 and then one with a cab. I am now back to a BX. Why, I thought I could do more with the "B" series and yes in open areas I could, but in the confines of moving stuff with a front loader around the yard a BX just can get in to more spaces. Also I found the "B" with a cab while nice had very high center of gravity and a narrow wheelbase and thus was somewhat top heavy. One had to be very careful on even a mild slope. As for mowing I had a belly mower on the "B" and used it some on long straight areas ( more later) but for my one acre lot a zero turn is the best. I have a Kubota with a 54 inch deck that works great and leaves a good cut plus I can get in and around beds etc thus reducing the trim mowing I have to do. Now back to the belly ( middle mower), yes the ground clearance is reduced on a BX especially with it mounted and removing and installing plus general maintenance is harder. So no belly mower. I am getting a 60" rear finish mower when I need mow long straight areas as it attaches easily to the BX and is far easier to service. As for the definition of long straight areas, in my case it is a 2200 ft log grass runway.

Bottom line a tractor primarily for tractor work and a zero turn for mowing has worked for me for many years

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I have 6 acres. 1-2 of yard and the rest pasture hills and tree line. I went with a 45hp 2wd tractor with fel because it was cheap, simple to work on and had plenty of loader lift capacity. I'm always picking up junk.

I mow all of my land. Around the house with a $400 riding lawn mower and the fence lines with it. On my tractor I have a 5ft rotary cutter and a 7ft rear finish mower. I prefer the tiny nimble lawn mower for the details and house area but the big mower makes the fields for fast.

A ztr is nice but it's a one trick pony and most cost more than my tractor did. The only thing i wish I had was 4wd but for the price I paid I can't complain.