4WD - is NOT using it destroying it?

[JasonMac]

I wouldn't ever worry about it. Use your MFWD when you need it. I wouldn't get too paranoid over not using it enough. You don't have to baby these machines. I don't use MFWD when traveling on pavement, or doing simple mowing. But I do use it of course for loader work, because the machine is almost useless without it. I also use it for bush hoggin' and Snow blowing, and rototilling. I really think you are looking into a problem that really isn't going to be a real problem at all. The chances are you aren't going to have a problem because you don't use it enough. I've owned a JD 855 for twelve years, (87-99), no problems. And now I have the JD 4200 from (99 to current) no problems. Don't worry about it. And my machines get a lot of hours put on them.

 

[yellowsocks93]

Yeah, I too would not worry about it. The only MFWD problem we have ever had on our 91 or 92 970 was some seal that dried out so it leaked a small amount of fluid. We don't use the MFWD on it so that could be the reason the seal dried up but it was cheap to replace. It was leaking in the front of the tube that covers the drive shaft to the front wheels to where it connects to the axle.

 

[rdam]

As I get more seat time, I'm amazed how much I USE 4WD. On level ground, It's near impossible to get a full bucket of dirt in 2WD. The rears start spinning pretty quick. However, in 4WD, it will drive right through the pile. My rears aren't loaded, but the 6 foot bush hog is hanging off the back.

I almost bought a larger 2WD machine thinking I would NEVER need 4WD. But the endless, constant, persistant nagging of the senior TBN'rs convinced me otherwise.

Sooooo, My 4WD is well lubed !!!!!!!

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Mine goes to 4wd whenever it is off. That effectively gives brakes to all wheels. )</font> Now that I have re-read the statement in my manual, I think they mean to put it in 4WD while you're not moving to avoid any sudden jolt. The wording first led me to believe it should be in 4WD any time it's not being used, but I now don't think that's the intention. This is the quote, can be taken different ways: "The front wheel drive should always be engaged when the tractor is stopped. Shift the lever to the "ON" position to engage the front wheel." ?? John

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> "The front wheel drive should always be engaged when the tractor is stopped. Shift the lever to the "ON" position to engage the front wheel." ?? John </font>

John I would interpret that statement to say if you want to use the 4 WD don't engage it on the fly, come to a full stop first. I don't think that it has anything at all to do with parking the rig in 4 WD. Thats just my interpretation though.

 

[Dirtnut]

john, are you sure they dont mean that when you need to put it in 4x4 you make sure the rear wheels are stopped so when you flip the switch there is no gear clash,just a thought.

as for not using the 4x4 to lubricate internal parts every so often how many of us turn the pto shafts on our implements every so often to lubricate gear boxes,i no i dont and never had any problems,(brush hogs,snow blowers that sit till the next season)so i dont think you have to worry about it to much.

 

[frank_f15]

now that makes more sense. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif always stop and engage the clutch before i change to 4 wd

 

[KiotiJohn]

Yes, as I stated in my last post, I think they did indeed mean to stop the tractor first. However, from reading the whole page, it was a little uncertain. I've heard of stranger things. Did you know that a lot of MFGs reccommend not leaving the clutch engaged for long periods? My Kioti comes with a hook to lock the clutch in disengaged position. I know that on an old tractor I had the clutch stick badly to the plate because it sat engaged for a long time. When I can remember it, I lock the clutch. John

 

[rockyridgefarm]

I never thought about the need to stop to engage 4WD. On mine, they make a big deal about shift on the fly 4WD, I never even thought that there are many that require being stopped. Not that it makes a whole lot of difference. But I routinely switch it on and off as I move...

 

[yellowsocks93]

Even on the advantage series Deere's like the 990 and 790 you have shift on the fly MFWD. John Deere is really on top of things! I usually shift/unshift into MFWD at a creep and sometimes to disengage or engage it you need to be stopped because it is not electronic like yours.

 

[Keoke]

I like using 4wd while going down hill with a loaded bucket. This locks your weighted front wheels to your braking, but now light weighted, back wheels. This is especially true when going down steep road with loose gravel. Other then that, use 4wd when you need extra traction or braking. If you don't need the extra traction/braking use 2wd and save wear and tear on the 4wd driveline and tires. Just my two cents, which is probably worth even less.

cheers,
george

 

[JerryT]

The only time I try not to use 4wd is when I am mowing my lawn. The front wheels will do a little damage, to wet ground, in 4wd, when turning. Probably 70% of the time I am in 4wd.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

I PM'ed the tbn DeereTech Brain Trust and here are some replies:


<ul type="square"> [*]Well here's my 20 year tractor opinion, and growing up with 4WD's around the house......., As you stated all the gears in the front axle of a Deere turn no matter what you are doing. So they are getting lube dispersed no matter what the MFWD lever is in. The only real reasons that I would give are two points. If you leave it off for too long of time, you run the risk of the external links of the engagement to rust up and even the shaft going into the transmission can rust up too. We see a good bit of this as the tractors get some age on them. It can get very expensive to pay a tech to take every linkage part off and free it up, and even have to get in to the tranny to free up the shift shaft. The reasons for running it out of 4WD are two fold but happen for the same reason. Deere and all the other companies work out their ratios to end up with the front tires turning around 2 to 5 percent faster than the rear, so you can understand why they tell you not to run them in 4wd on pavement. the extra wear on the tires is great and it puts the front drive system in a bind all the way from the tire back. I have seen tractors in so much of a bind that when the front tires are jacked up, the tires will start to turn as the gears and shafts "unwind" (same reason you had to drive your 4wd vehicle back and forth to get the locking hubs to turn) On the same note and thought, if you use the tractor in 4wd on nice soft turf grass with an aggressive tire you can tear the turf as the front tire tries to "skip" to release some of the tension it has created. Most times this pressure will work itself out as the tractor turns left and right since the front axle is an open differential, but at times it won't.
In a perfect world it wouldn't matter but I would say mostly it's to keep the levers free, same goes for the SCV lever for loaders. We are seeing more and more of them come in needing to be freed up. - joecdeere

[*]As far as the SCV, it seems that a lot of people after a month or two with the loader seem to get most of the jobs around the house done , and then either take the loader off, or just use it less. The ball joints seem to be the biggest problem, wouldn't hurt to spray them with a little lube next time you're under the left rear wheel area. - joecdeere

[*]The 4wd system will not be affected if you use it all of the time or just once in awhile. The only thing that will be affected is front tire wear, people who tend to leave the 4wd on all of the time will as a rule use more of the front tread do to scuffing. Also something else to note that on your 4310 when you hit the switch to engage the 4wd you are sending voltage to a solenoid that opens a valve that allows oil to flow to a hydraulic cylinder under the left tunnel area which allows the spring to engage the 4wd. This is not the way other manufactures do things. What this will allow is that if the wiring becomes damaged it will always stay in 4wd. Jason K.C. Canary-fultonville [/list]

These guys see a lot of machines and get to see first hand where the problems are...

 

[BillyP]

Some good information there, Mike. That Joe Deere has made some good posts and helped a lot of people out.

One thing people may or may not know about the eHydro. When the key is off, the tractor automatically engages the MFWD.

 

[Zork]

I would say, use it only when you need to. Since you know that truck/jeep 4wd are different you also know that when the 4wd isn't used, front output shaft bearings/ seals on the transfer case usually go bad, just as the outer pinion bearing in the front differential goes bad because of insufficient lubrication. Not to mention frozen or stiff u-joints. Most newer AWD/4wd incorporate clutches in the transfer case to allow for the torque to dissipate and not destroy the housing, along with live (non-hub disengaging) axles which permit constant lubrication. Those with front lock out hubs recommend 4wd operation once a month. To my knowledge, unless I am mistaken, most tractors are all positive locking with no clutches and do not allow the rear drive train to turn at a different revolution than the front drivetrain upon a certain value of torque. Therefore, you are likely to experience excessive tire wear, drive train wear, lower fuel economy, turf damage and whatever else if you drive on dry hard ground/ PAVEMENT. If your loading or pulling something that requires extra traction. - put it in 4wd. It wont hurt it on dry soil, it will only eat up your grass, dirt and fuel. I'd say, if you don't need it, turn it off. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Wildman1]

I only engage mfwd when I need the traction. As far as engaging on the fly, the Deere sez that's O.K. , but I always slow and reduce the drive load first. Changing gear ranges, though, seems to be more problematic. I always slow to a stop, release all pedal pressure and switch, otherwise I frequently get gear grind.

One thing that I noticed, I increased the front tire pressure to 30psi on those little jd2210 tires. They tend to bulge and roll with a heavy loader bucket. The mfwd became more difficult to engage/disengage. Obviously, the front to rear ratio was changed and pre-loaded the drivetrain more. So I reduced to 25psi and things became like grease.

I agree that tractor 4wd systems are totally unlike other vehicles. No transfer case or hub issues. But, the issue of non-use of the SVC and related components makes sense.