Quick Hitches 3rd link

[nwltruck]

Any one know if there is an electric top link instead of hyd. Would like to have an ajustable top link but would like to not tie up my only remote on the rear of the tractor. Or would it just be cheeper to put a deverter valve on and hyd top link.

 

[kennyd]

Any one know if there is an electric top link instead of hyd. Would like to have an ajustable top link but would like to not tie up my only remote on the rear of the tractor. Or would it just be cheeper to put a deverter valve on and hyd top link.

Go the Diverter route...any electric linear actuator that would stand up to the abuse of a T/L would be super expensive and very slow.

Here is two threads to look at:

3320 diverter installed - TractorByNet.com

Electric Selector Valve Install - TractorByNet.com

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree with kennyd, pretty much a waist of time and money even looking for an alternative to the hydraulic route. There is a reason that everyone uses hydraulics, dependable and relatively inexpensive for what you get.

 

[nwltruck]

The speed is not a problem. I have found a DC actuator that has a 1000# operating load and a 3000# static load, and it is under the price of the hyd top link itself. If this would not be enough. What would be?

It would be going on a JD 3320. The lift capacity is around 2600#.

I would also like to get away from adding more hydraulic lines to the bake of my machine. Just thought it may be a good idea.

 

[kennyd]

The speed is not a problem. I have found a DC actuator that has a 1000# operating load and a 3000# static load, and it is under the price of the hyd top link itself. If this would not be enough. What would be?

It would be going on a JD 3320. The lift capacity is around 2600#.

I would also like to get away from adding more hydraulic lines to the bake of my machine. Just thought it may be a good idea.

The shock load would well exceed 3000#'s on a T/L. Do you have a link to this actuator?

If this would not be enough. What would be?

A hydraulic cylinder of course. If the was a magic solution that was cheaper than a hydraulic cylinder, and did not require most people to have to add remotes to their tractors don't you think it would be so popular you would have heard or read about it already? You would only be "adding" two lines to the rear of your machine with the diverter.

 

[nwltruck]

sorry? I didn't know that all the good ideas had been thought of already. Just had an idea and wondered if any one had any input. This is the link to the actuator.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1680-12&catname=electric

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Some stuff just doesn't workout very well, not that someone has not already tried it. I would have to say that the size of your tractor would make the Actuator inoperative in short order.

Something to keep in mind is that you have come to a tractor board and asked a question. There are a lot of people here that know what works and what does not. What has been tried and failed and what has worked and does work the best for a certain application. All we have done is point you in the right direction and tried to save you some time and money. Sorry if someone seemed short with you, but that happens some days.

I hope that TBN is able to help you out with your top link quest.

 

[nwltruck]

I am glad that people will still take the time to help someone else and give them some advice. I for one come up with alot of strange ideas so don't expect this to be the last. Thanks for the advise.... hydrolic it is. :thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am glad that people will still take the time to help someone else and give them some advice. I for one come up with alot of strange ideas so don't expect this to be the last. Thanks for the advise.... hydrolic it is. :thumbsup:

I'm sure that while your out on the road, you have time and are able to see all sorts of stuff that gives you a lot of different ideas. No harm in asking, that's how we all learn.

If I remember correctly, you should be able to find everything that you may need to know about adding the circuits needed to do this in the John Deere forums. Just to throw a wrench in the mix, as long as your going to do this, you may want to add a hydraulic tilt cylinder. That way you would have a complete Top & Tilt set up. Trust me when I say that if you do much of any grading at all, "TnT" sure is nice to have. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Good luck with your research

 

[kennyd]

sorry? I didn't know that all the good ideas had been thought of already. Just had an idea and wondered if any one had any input. This is the link to the actuator.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1680-12&catname=electric

I am sorry if you took my post wrong, I did not mean to sound like a Smart A**. I do apologize:drink:

Also, that price is technically more that the HTL with a DPOCV they sell: [URL="https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&byKeyword=yes&search=9-7682"]9-7682. You already have the most expensive and frustrating part of adding a HTL for most people, the rear remote-use it my friend

 

[SPYDERLK]

The speed is not a problem. I have found a DC actuator that has a 1000# operating load and a 3000# static load, and it is under the price of the hyd top link itself. If this would not be enough. What would be?

It would be going on a JD 3320. The lift capacity is around 2600#.

I would also like to get away from adding more hydraulic lines to the bake of my machine. Just thought it may be a good idea.

I am glad that people will still take the time to help someone else and give them some advice. I for one come up with alot of strange ideas so don't expect this to be the last. Thanks for the advise.... hydrolic it is. :thumbsup:

Unfortunately, what the advice did not tell you was that forces are far beyond what you had in mind. Static [not bouncing] forces in tension could easily go well beyond the rating of that link from just lifting an overhung load with the lift arms -- much less a loaded boompole. Forces from bouncing would exceed the already marginal static forces many times over. And the 1000# adjusting limit would usually require any implement of size to be set down while making the adjustment or the screw drive would stall.
larry

 

[nwltruck]

I have planned to add a diverter to the front and the rear(I need a remote for the grapple) I do have a snow blower that i need the rear remote to swing the shoot. Other than that I don't really need any more remotes. I think if I put short 1/4" lines to the top link and tie them back they won't get in the way anyhow. Now I just have to decide if I want the front diverter on the tractor or the loader:confused2: