3pt Top Link chain

   / 3pt Top Link chain #23  
I rarely hook up the toplink to either the finishing mower or the bush hog. If there's a rock to hit, lifting the 3 point hitch gets it over any obstacle.

My 3 point hitch holds it's position quite well, no drop so no worries...
What does that do to the PTO shaft U-joints?
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #24  
After reading about guys using a length of chain top link, I made one. I considered what happens if the mower or land plane tips up all the way. My rotary mower would tip up to about 60° before the A-frame hits the back of the tractor diff. housing, but by then the PTO shaft has already broken, which I should've already known and shut down the tractor. Using a short pipe 6" shorter over the chain prevents this from happening.
I wonder how many tractor operators don't watch the implements they are using, just turn the key and steer? This can cause problems though, I have a loose disc in my back from looking over my right shoulder watching what's happening; my chiropractor fixes me about 1-2x/week.
What I need is a chiropractor to fix me at least weekly but it has to be a young she with tight fitting clothes as well..
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #25  
What I need is a chiropractor to fix me at least weekly but it has to be a young she with tight fitting clothes as well..
I went to one once, it made me stiff in the wrong places; never went back.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #27  
I think the advice applies for any implement that can carry weight that should be on the back tires.
Not arguing that point, the point I was making is everyone has drifted the dialog to mowers and bush hogs which is not what the OP had asked about.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #28  
What does that do to the PTO shaft U-joints?
Don't really know, never a problem for me. Plenty of overlap but not enough to ever bottom out. The pto shaft and 3 point hitch arms are pretty parallel and only a few inches higher. So nothing gets into a bind no matter how deep a ditch I cut across.

As for the OP, not sure chains are recommended for any other implement except for mowers...
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain
  • Thread Starter
#29  
All., thank you! keep the comments coming. About 80% of my mowing is done going backwards. I live in a holler and to keep the roads and ditches clean its usually a case of backing the mower over the edge back and forth all the way, thank God for HST. I know that is not the intended design of a rottery cutter. But i dont have a flat peice of ground on this place except where i have made it flat. How do you thing using a chain would work out mowing backwards.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #31  
All., thank you! keep the comments coming. About 80% of my mowing is done going backwards. I live in a holler and to keep the roads and ditches clean its usually a case of backing the mower over the edge back and forth all the way, thank God for HST. I know that is not the intended design of a rottery cutter. But i dont have a flat peice of ground on this place except where i have made it flat. How do you thing using a chain would work out mowing backwards.
Much of my cutting is in that manner also.
I do have a hydraulic top link and a flexible link on my brush hog.
The flex link allows the mower to raise up in the rear while backing into banks and such,
then the hydraulic top link allows me the ability to lower the rear of the mower when backing over the bank and clearing lower then the tractor.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #32  
Since no one has mention chain use on a box blade I'll point out that it works as long as you don't use the rippers which are mounted at the front and WILL tip the back of the attachment up. For just scraping it works well and follows the moderate ground humps and dips fairly well.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #34  
For the most part I would agree but my experience has been when moving forward, the front tires will drive over dips and humps causing the blade to either lift or dig in as it passes. The chain can help with some of that initial leveling before finishing with the solid top link.

Any others with their experiences to improve land flattening with a box blade would be helpful.
 
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   / 3pt Top Link chain #35  
I just finished grading (after removing up to eight inches of dirt) in three spots, maybe a 1/4 acre in total. Or about 20 loads in my 16' dump trailer.

Started with ripping using the 8' box blade, then mostly used the smaller box blade I've made towable, with the long tongue. It's been shown in several photos on this site.

Once everything was near smooth and level I used the towable 10' box blade, which heavy and has a very long tongue.

Next I'll disc it, and hope the irrigation water can flow like it used to before the prairie built the surface up over the decades.

Could I have done it with only the 8' box blade? Yes, and I could've left the hydraulic top link in float at first, mimicking a chain, but it would've taken much longer and not been as smooth. Not with me running the tractor anyway.
 
   / 3pt Top Link chain #36  
Assuming the OP is using a Kubota L3901, I don't believe that model has draft control. I don't understand why every utility tractor does not have draft control which makes using a back blade or a box blade easier to control. As for leveling out the highs and lows. I move the tractor forward to fill the box blade then I push that pile in reverse with the cutting edge even with the bottom of the wheels. The result is a flat ground. This is how a dozer creates flat ground. As for the chain top link, NO.
 
 

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