I posted some of the following on another thread regarding mid mowers, however most of my questions are side hill stability.
I am considering upgrading to a 3720 or 3520 tractor. My biggest concern on the 3000 series tractors is the narrow wheel track and total weight for side hill mowing stability. Currently my Deere 870 with loaded tires set to the wide wheel position and has a 64 outside wheel track that has proven to be adequate on my terrain.
The 3000 series brochure depicts a 68.4 rear track width. I have looked at a unit with the 43x16-20 R4 tires and that wheel track is about 57? I have reports that the turf special tires (41x18LL-16.1, R3) run about 64 wide but that tread would not be suitable for winter work here in PA.
1) Does anyone have front and rear track width measurement for a wide wheel track configuration with standard turf tires (41x14-20, R3) or the wider industrial tires (43x16-20, R4).
2) Anyone running a 72 mid mower on a wide wheel track setup?
3) Any real world comparisons of side hill traction for these two tire types?
4) Likewise, any comments on these two tire types relative to tearing up turf?
5) Are there wheel spacer kits available to widen the track on the front and/or rear for the 3000 series? P/Ns?
BriarCreek:
1. I'm running a 3720 (Soon trading on a 4720) with 6" (Each side) unverferth wheel extensions and loaded R3's in the 'narrow' position (Fronts wide). I'm about 66" wide in the rear (I'm not with the tractor so I can't measure the front). Without the extensions I'd be 54" wide, or about 59.xx" in the wide position - Still pretty narrow. The R4's run a little bit wider but the difference narrow/wide is only about 1.5" vs about 5" narrow to wide on the R3's.
2. I was running my 72" 7 iron and went to an 84" RFM - Enough Said.
It was a royal pain in the butt putting it on and off anyway, would lose adjustment,
you need to loosen the lead screw for the height adjustment all the way, etc.
With the wide stance it's even worse reaching underneath so I gave up.
If I could leave it on it would be fine, but taking it of for 'tractor' work was a pain.
My advice would be if you are going to leave it on for long periods of time the
MMM is ok. The cut quality of the MMM is superb and it doesn't scalp much.
If you have lot's of 'tractor' work I would go with a RFM. And if you are doing
ANYTHING but scooping up stuff on level ground with the loader on you will be
banging up that expensive deck. (Note that it is pretty rugged and I never
bent anything badly on it but would throw it out of adjustment a lot.)
3. I ran my 3320 (No wheel extensions) with the MMM with the large R4's and had
unloaded large R4's on my 3720 when I got it.
I mow sideways a bit up to about a 15 degree slope. Both
tires are ok but the R3's are actually much better on firm, dry ground. You can
spin the R4's easily on hard packed turf if you are going straight up and down
in 2wd. (Note that I run that now with the extensions, I'd be leery running a 15
degree slope without them even I know it would be ok).
4. The R4's will leave compression marks on the lugs. The R3's just pat down a
wide swath but don't compress or leave marks in the soil. Note that I mow at
about 6000lbs in my 3720 (loader on/bucket off).
Both tires will tear up the turf if you cut sharp even in 2wd. Keep the turns
gradual and you'll be ok.
I've found the R3's to be a better all around tire than the R4's but note that I
don't trek through the mud a lot. In hard pack snow and on ICE the R3's
are way, way, way better than the R4's. The R3's also support Chains better
since they don't 'fall' in the lugs.
5. - See 1. Yes, Unverferth. I forget what they were (I think a little under $300
each).
