3 Point Log Skidder

[Tkblacktail]

After going through the TBN search engine, looking at images on-line, then looking into my wallet, I decided to make a 3 point log-skidder for my light forestry operations. I usually skid 12' Big Leaf Maple and oak. On occasion, I skid 16' - 20' fir logs. I have 15 years before my wood-lot is ready for wide-scale harvest again; by then, I will have some type of 3 point winch, perhaps a Farmi.

I'm pulling with the draw-bar and lifting with the arm-spacer bar now and it works pretty well on the "flats" and "straights".

I would like the operator's hands farther-away from the logs when detaching the chokers, a little more play at the front end of the logs, and I also want to use the upper link to do something too (not just sit there while the draw-bar & lifting arms do all the work).

Thanks to everyone on TBN for the previous posts here is what I came-up with; 2" square tubes properly welded. I don't have any measurements yet; still in the take-off phase.

View attachment 354965

I would appreciate any words of wisdom; particularly on the nomenclatures of the types and thickness of metal I should be shopping for.

Thanks.

 

[lutt]

I'm gonna watch this, I've been thinking about one also! LUTT

 

[99dakota4by4]

I have ~45 acres (mixed hardwoods) that will eventually need thinned. Most of mine is NOT flat... Would be interested to see your final plan.

 

[Yamforlife]

I am also interested to see the final plans 13 acres not flat. My only comment would be to add some sort of protective plate. :thumbsup:

 

[Gordon Gould]

Your design pictorial looks rugged. I see square tube and flat bar stock the way you have it drawn. You don't show demensions but I am thinking the way you have the lift point for your chains above the top link you must have some fat logs to pick up. I would be concerned with the chain connection point that high up if your logs are heavy. That is unless you know that it will be OK from previous experience. You would be better off (safer) if you could make it lower. ie between the top link and lift arms.

Here is a different type of design that you can get a high lift yet all the weight on the tractor is kept low, on the draw bar and lift arms. Nothing on the top link as it is unused. There is very little force to tip the tractor back with this hitch compared to one that employs the top link. This guy lifted some heavy stuff as you can see.

 

[Tkblacktail]

Your design pictorial looks rugged. I see square tube and flat bar stock the way you have it drawn. You don't show demensions but I am thinking the way you have the lift point for your chains above the top link you must have some fat logs to pick up. I would be concerned with the chain connection point that high up if your logs are heavy. That is unless you know that it will be OK from previous experience. You would be better off (safer) if you could make it lower. ie between the top link and lift arms.


Here is a different type of design that you can get a high lift yet all the weight on the tractor is kept low, on the draw bar and lift arms. Nothing on the top link as it is unused. There is very little force to tip the tractor back with this hitch compared to one that employs the top link. This guy lifted some heavy stuff as you can see.

Good info; maybe I'm not done designing my log-skidder yet.......:thumbsup:

A vertical pivot-point for the boom at the draw-bar
(+) A floating fulcrum for the boom at the spacer-bar
(=) A dynamic (if not exponential) lift value; genius!

 

[Marveltone]

Interesting thread. I can't wait to see what you end up building. For what it's worth, I've been wanting to buy or make a skidder, but time and money seem to have other priorities. Meanwhile, I use my box blade as a skidder. A short chain loops around the front end of the log and hooks to the top of the blade, just long enough to keep the front of the log snug against the rear of the blade. Lifting the blade raises the front of the log, just like any other skidder. The blade is lifted just enough to keep the leading edge of the log from digging into anything, while the box blade itself sticks out back far enough (my tractor has rather long lift arms) to make an effective anti-flip device. I have been very pleased with this set-up, as it's yet another use for something I already have.

Joe

 

[milkman]

Neat idea and looks like a stout design. A couple of suggestions, lower the chain lift point to about or just below the top link attachment point, that's used to lift the front of the log and make the center of gravity a little lower. Then make provisions to hook a chain from the log to the drawbar height to pull the log. Without the bottom hookup to pull the log, all the weight and the pulling force is on the top link attachment of the tractor. There was once a picture on here showing that point on the tractor ripped off, not a pretty sight.

 

[jimainiac]

Interesting thread. I can't wait to see what you end up building. For what it's worth, I've been wanting to buy or make a skidder, but time and money seem to have other priorities. Meanwhile, I use my box blade as a skidder. A short chain loops around the front end of the log and hooks to the top of the blade, just long enough to keep the front of the log snug against the rear of the blade. Lifting the blade raises the front of the log, just like any other skidder. The blade is lifted just enough to keep the leading edge of the log from digging into anything, while the box blade itself sticks out back far enough (my tractor has rather long lift arms) to make an effective anti-flip device. I have been very pleased with this set-up, as it's yet another use for something I already have.

Joe

Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
Another good use for the boxblade.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Good info; maybe I'm not done designing my log-skidder yet.......:thumbsup:

A vertical pivot-point for the boom at the draw-bar
(+) A floating fulcrum for the boom at the spacer-bar
(=) A dynamic (if not exponential) lift value; genius!

You don't get all that for free of course - there is always a catch. I can see you understand levers so maybe you already see it. The draw bar pivot is the fulcrum. The liftarms provide the lift with a shorter lever arm than the log. So the max log weight will be less than what you could pick at the end of the lift arms. Max log weight depends on your geometry. You give up weight for height. Your tractor is about 2650 lbs at the lift arms ( I think ) so even at 2:1 you got 1325 lbs available for the butt end of the log.

You don't have that trade off with your initial design.

EDIT; For reference a 16 foot green red oak that is 24" in diameter average weighs 3200 lbs. 18" dia is 1800 lbs.

 

[arrow]

Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
Another good use for the boxblade.

I'm glad this method is working for you. I think I would find it problematic in that my woods are dense and something like a box blade could be an incumbrance in tight spots.

 

[Tkblacktail]

Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
Another good use for the boxblade.

The box blade is a good idea; if mine wasn't as new as it is, I would certainly use it for that. I think the chokers would do "a number" on it.

 

[arrow]

Trask I've been thinking about this myself. In actuality, yanking stems out of the woods with a compact for the last 35 years, I have found little problem with simply attaching a hook to the 3 pt draw bar and lifting with that. The biggest pain in the neck has not been the point of attachment but what to do with the chains not being used. You want a place behind the tractor to keep them at hand but stored and out of the way. I use a 3/8" grab hook that is able to snug two 1/4" chains. Both are 7' long with one having a slip hook and the other having a slip and grab hook at the other end to be able to "tie" the two chains together if I cannot back up close enough to the stem. Right now I have to wrap the unused chain around the three point arms so they do not get hooked to the rest of the forest on the return. It amazes me how long i can do something that bothers the piss out of me but continue to do it anyway. Whatever design you end up with, have a place for the unused chains.

 

[Tkblacktail]

The draw bar pivot is the fulcrum. The liftarms provide the lift with a shorter lever arm than the log. So the max log weight will be less than what you could pick at the end of the lift arms. Max log weight depends on your geometry. You give up weight for height. Your tractor is about 2650 lbs at the lift arms ( I think ) so even at 2:1 you got 1325 lbs available for the butt end of the log.

You don't have that trade off with your initial design.

EDIT; For reference a 16 foot green red oak that is 24" in diameter average weighs 3200 lbs. 18" dia is 1800 lbs.

I'm reading your post and using my index fingers as a method of understanding the mechanics :laughing:.

I now-see the fulcrum being where you call it at; the draw-bar, thanks.

You entire post makes a lot of sense!

If the boom floats on the spacer bar as it rises and falls; lifting the spacer-bar should shorten the boom's length; bringing it closer to the tractor as it rises, measurably increasing the lift-capability (off-setting the trade-off by 5 or 10%).

View attachment 355060

I got less pressure on the 3 point, most pressure on the draw-bar, and consider lifting trade-offs

 

[Tkblacktail]

Trask I've been thinking about this myself. In actuality, yanking stems out of the woods with a compact for the last 35 years, I have found little problem with simply attaching a hook to the 3 pt draw bar and lifting with that. The biggest pain in the neck has not been the point of attachment but what to do with the chains not being used. You want a place behind the tractor to keep them at hand but stored and out of the way. I use a 3/8" grab hook that is able to snug two 1/4" chains. Both are 7' long with one having a slip hook and the other having a slip and grab hook at the other end to be able to "tie" the two chains together if I cannot back up close enough to the stem. Right now I have to wrap the unused chain around the three point arms so they do not get hooked to the rest of the forest on the return. It amazes me how long i can do something that bothers the piss out of me but continue to do it anyway. Whatever design you end up with, have a place for the unused chains.

Moving through the woods like the ghost of Christmas Past? I'm hanging them on my chainsaw carrier now and they swing from side to side. I also tie them together; if my 3 point is in use, I store them in that 3 point hook.

View attachment 355047

I have added several hooks and 45 degree supports since I took this picture.

 

[arrow]

This year I just used my 3016 for logging for the first time. What I did find is that the 3 point doesn't lift high enough for my liking. I can understand making a short boom for your log skidder angled upward for this tractor. Although my old JD 750 could not match the pulling power of the 16, it's 3 point actually lifted higher. I was looking at the tractor today and noticed there are 3 points of attachment for the lift arms. You can see them in your pic. I should try moving the arms up to see if they go any higher. That shelf you have must come in handy for chains and of course the chainsaw..

 

[Verticaltrx]

I built something similar a few years back: Building a small 3pt hitch logging arch

I actually set the attachment point for the chains lower than the top link to reduce stress on the top link. The lower arms are much much stronger than the top link and are designed for pulling, the top link is mostly just to hold the weight of the implement. With the attachment point up so high, you are not only pulling entirely from the top link, but also also putting all the weight on it too. Just something to think about, would hate for you to rip the top link bracket out of your tractor.

 

[Tkblacktail]

That shelf you have must come in handy for chains and of course the chainsaw..

I mounted the shelf low enough to reach and high enough so I wouldn't bonk my head.

View attachment 355069 "Shop Floor" materials.


I'll check into setting the arms at a position where they would/can lift higher; another great idea!

 

[Tkblacktail]

I built something similar a few years back: Building a small 3pt hitch logging arch

I actually set the attachment point for the chains lower than the top link to reduce stress on the top link. The lower arms are much much stronger than the top link and are designed for pulling, the top link is mostly just to hold the weight of the implement. With the attachment point up so high, you are not only pulling entirely from the top link, but also also putting all the weight on it too. Just something to think about, would hate for you to rip the top link bracket out of your tractor.

That is beautiful (so glad I asked for wisdom on this thread); I didn't see that thread in the TBN search engine... Your craftsmanship is admirable; especially the right angles and welds, and you took the time to document the process.

My take-away is to measure how high my tractor will lift; make the adjustments Arrow mentioned then mount the pulling point as low as possible (and as short as possible).

 

[Tkblacktail]

So, I'm gonna set this up and use for a while and see how it goes; dimensions TBD.

I'll post what dimensions I come-up with.

The draw-bar is the lower left; I'll use HD clevises for the links, the boom will float on the spacer-bar, perhaps 2 hooks to hold the chokers at the end of the boom.

View attachment 355086

I'll also collect materials for the initial drawing and also add a trailer-receiver.

Thanks for the great discussions.