2610D Turbocharging

[rock2610D]

Due to my elevation (8000 ft) I am turbocharging my YM 2610D. Already have a turbo on it but it is too big. Finally found a MHI TD025M out of a 90 CID kubota.

I will be installing it this weekend. I will document my progress as I go. So here is a photo of my tiny little turbocharger.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...So here is a photo of my tiny little turbocharger.

By George, that little sucker (blower?) is a cute as a little puppy!

Best of luck! Here's hoping it works well for you.

 

[DieselPower]

That should be nicely sized for the engine and should provide nice boost preasure. Bigger isn't alway's better.

 

[MJPetersen]

Rock,

Look forward to seeing your progress on this. Pretty little thing. Keep us posted with pics!!

Mike

 

[JerryG]

That is cute. I bet that is it is just about the perfect size for your engine. Looking forward to seeing the install and outcome. I have had the same engine, both without and with a turbo. The difference is truly amazing. I am sure that you will really enjoy the difference.

 

[rock2610D]

Well I have it mounted on the tractor. Still need to fab up the exhaust to muffler, cold side intake and exhaust, and oil fed and return.

Had to order a 10mm banjo fitting for oil feed. Should be here next week.

The oil return is going to be a Bi#####ch. Any advise would help.

Old turbo was mounted on top of engine and drained to oil fill tube. Not sure where to send return oil to, now. Considered taping into the drain plug but it is o-ringed and I do not like the idea of returning oil that way. It could create a vacuum in return line and hurt seals in turbo. Any recommendations???

 

[MJPetersen]

Rock,

On my 1510 the exhaust and the oil dipstick are on the same side. The dipstick is a separate plate that is bolted on. I thought that the oil return could be fabbed there with a new plate and dipstick tube. That was my idea anyway. Your tractor is so much larger than mine.

Mike

 

[rock2610D]

I wish my dipstick was on the exhaust side too. It is not, thinking about making a duplicate access port, the one the crankcase vent is on, and putting another hole in the duplicate for oil return. It is pretty high but it would be a short run and may work.

I cannot believe there is no other way to access the oil system, darn it!!!

 

[rock2610D]

Day 2: Got cold side exhaust and intake hooked up, Hot side exhaust is 80% complete.

Still scratching my head on the oil return stuff.

Could someone tell me the size of the oil drain bolt? Yanmar 3T80 motor in a YM 2610D.

I am thinking of using a large bango bolt and fitting screwed into the oil drain hole. I will have to vent the line similar to the crankcase vent on the side of the tractor but there would be no vacuum issues then.

 

[California]

Still scratching my head on the oil return stuff.

1) Would the double-banjo fitting on top of the injectors be the right size? One of those would give you an outlet to plumb the atmospheric vent to. But I don't understand why you need a vent. If after shutoff it sucks crankcase oil back into the line, so what?

2) I wouldn't put anything that easily broken under the belly of the tractor. I scared myself once when I ripped out the oil pressure electric signal cable while driving over brush. Not an oil failure, just a signal failure. And long ago I ripped a lot of the wiring out of a Willys Wagon doing something similar. ( I discovered several generations of amateur rewiring had been run external along its belly - the original wiring probably wouldn't have snagged).

In your case a snag would drop all the crankcase oil on the ground. I wouldn't risk it.

What about tapping a return fitting into the valve cover? That oil is under pressure, it can run uphill.

 

[rock2610D]

California, thanks for the reply, but oil return from the turbo has no pressure. Return to crankcase if via gravity only. Oil feed line is under pressure so I just tapped into the oil sender unit. Banjo fitting is jetted so turbo will not scavange too much oil pressure.

Given sealed bearings in turbo and oil running to oil pan under oil level the "siphon" action could cause turbo seals to fail early. It would be like putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose full of water and have the other end of the hose not leak water unless you released your thumb. I small vent tube to atmosphere will prevent any vacuum and not put any undue stress on seals.

I hear what you are saying about the banjo idea on the oil drain. I just cannot figure out any other way, short of drilling and tapping a hole in block which I will not do.

 

[mark777]

Rock,

Fascinating thread.

Have you considered the possibility of a remote oil filter kit? This would allow you to mount the filter assembly very near your oil return line from the turbo. And also plumb to the return line at the filter.

IE - Perma-Cool oil filter relocation kit:

 

[Box]

Rock,

Fascinating thread.

Have you considered the possibility of a remote oil filter kit? This would allow you to mount the filter assembly very near your oil return line from the turbo. And also plumb to the return line at the filter.

IE - Perma-Cool oil filter relocation kit:

Now that's using your head. Sure seems like that would be neat and clean way to get the oil line hooked up.

 

[rock2610D]

Thanks for all the ideas. However, I think that oil filters are under pressure?? Plumbing one of those into the return oil from turbo would only create a clog in the return line and oil would back up into the turbo and eventually get blown out into the exhaust.

Or am I missing something??

 

[mark777]

I can't seem to verify my own suggestion about a non pressurized connection at the remote oil filter idea.

My first thought (and one I hadn't mentioned) was to drill, tap (IE: 3/8" NPT) and install a hose barb fitting at the side of your timing case cover. Since everything I've read so far relies on a gravity fed line to the oil pan...I believe the hose fitting install would work as there's no vacuum, pressure or interference when installed at the correct location...........Maybe?

Mark

 

[rock2610D]

The timing case cover, could work. In your photo there are red dots that show possible drill locations. Not sure I can use those as they are towards the top and to the wrong side of engine. However I was looking at the area around the right side of the engine where the hydro pump is.


There is the issue of getting metal shavings in the oil and I am going to see if I can prevent this by opening the access port for the govener and catching all metal shavings.

It "appears" that the timing case cover is not made of the same type of material as the block. Is it alum. or what?

We may be on a good track here!!

 

[mark777]

Rock,

It's aluminum. And I wouldn't even consider drilling with out removing the T/C cover. You have the cam, crank oil and hydro pump pulleys scavaging the shallow trough and it's pretty scary what could happen if the gears sucked up the shavings and ingested into the oil supply.

It would add about 3 hours to R&R plus a timing case cover gasket and crank seal. Doing it this way and you'd never have a worry down the road...and I think it's a better option than punching a hole in the oil pan. Plus it allows you the opportunity to find and install at the most convenient spot and at the least intrusive position inside the cover. JMHO.

Mark

 

[mark777]

.........There is the issue of getting metal shavings in the oil and I am going to see if I can prevent this by opening the access port for the govener and catching all metal shavings.......

Sorry, I missed this part. You may be able to catch all of the shavings and save on the parts and labor....

Mark

 

[rock2610D]

Yes, the proper way to drill and tap cover would be to remove. However, I really do not want to pull cover at this point. May have to down the road.

After much consideration this is what I have decided, unless someone here thinks its a mistake, I am going to pull the cover for the access to fuel pump linkage. It is the cover that has the crankcase vent on it, and I am also going to pull the cover that gives access to the govenor.

I will fabricate duplicates of both covers and add 3/4" steel nipples welded to duplicate covers. I will then attach a 3/4 inch "tee" to allow access to the fuel pump linkage cover and also run a line to the duplicate govenor acess plate.


This gives the oil 2 places to go. If I get on a steep hill and oil starts to back up it will back up to the "tee" and hopefully drain from there. There is only about 3 inches of fall to Fuel Pump Linkage cover but I have about 5 inches to bottom of govener cover. Problem is that the govener cover to turbo is about 20 inches and the slope is not "good". Driving the tractor up a somewhat steep slope could make oil run TOWARD turbo. This is why I will have the fuel pmp cover as a back-up drain.

Does this read as reasonable??

 

[mark777]

Sure....sounds like the ideal spot (IMHO).

If you're fabricating your own cover plate and there is no internal protrusion (inside flush mount) then clearance for the throttle metering rod is the only concern, but it should have plenty of space to dump return oil.

I'm anxious to find if the turbo installation project overcomes your 8000' altitude problems. Looking forward to your first critique' regarding temperatures, performance, operation and fuel consumption.

Mark