2305 not cooperating, need help

[wxboy]

The other day I went to start the tractor and when I turned the key nothing happened. So I jump started it and everything was fine. I ran it for 30+ minutes shut it down then tried to start it and nothing again. I put the battery on a charger overnight then tried to start it the next day and still nothing. No cranking, nothing. Jumped it again and mowed the lawn for 45 minutes or so then it just shut down on me. When I got off the tractor I smelled a slight burning smell which smelled like burned ceramic to me but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from because the wind was swirling around. Carried a battery out into the back yard and tried to jump it again but this time it cranked a few times then started up for maybe a second and then it dies. Tried this a couple of more times with the same result. So I cleaned the battery contacts, added water to the battery(one of the cells was pretty low) and tried to charge the battery again but so far the battery doesn't want to take a charge.

I checked the fuse which is for the engine and the glow plugs and it was blown. I put in another fuse and tried to jump it with the same failed result and it blew the fuse again.

So obviously I have a battery problem which I'll be dealing with but I don't know what is causing the fuse to blow so in my mind just buying a new battery isn't going to fix the problem.

My next steps are the change the air and fuel filters since they probably need it but does anyone have any ideas or suggestions about what could be causing this or what else I can do to try to fix it?

 

[JiminGa]

I think your going to have to take it one step at a time, swap the battery and fuse and see what happens. you could have blown the fuse jumping it. sometimes we get worked up over perceived things that are really unknown and most of the time unfounded.

 

[cast_and_blast]

I agree - take an approach of measured change. Start by replacing the fuse (again) and getting a new battery. I'm guessing you have a bad cell.

Do you have a multi-meter to check the battery after it is charged? If so, what does (did) it read? With a bad cell you'll often be below 10 volts.

Scott

 

[RalphVa]

I agree with the others. You've a bad cell in the battery; a diesel will run without the battery, once started. Replace the battery. Put in a new fuse. See if everything works okay then.

Ralph

 

[wxboy]

I agree - take an approach of measured change. Start by replacing the fuse (again) and getting a new battery. I'm guessing you have a bad cell.

Do you have a multi-meter to check the battery after it is charged? If so, what does (did) it read? With a bad cell you'll often be below 10 volts.

Scott

The voltage this afternoon was 10.83 volts. I'm putting the battery back on the charger for 24 hours at 2 amps. I'm really hoping this battery comes back to life. And then I hope that the tractor will actually start and not blow the fuse again.

 

[jsboening]

I'd say bad cell as well. A good 12 volt battery should put out close to 13 volts. In my experience. I had two batteries in my Duramax Chevy, one measured a little over 10 volts the other was about 9. It would start if jumped, but not on it's own. Reminds me of what your going through.

 

[Willl]

The voltage this afternoon was 10.83 volts

Don't waste your time, that battery is shot.

 

[JD Greg]

Don't waste your time, that battery is shot.

I agree, the battery is shot.
Have experienced this in the past with motorcycles. They will die without warning and there is no bringing them back.

 

[cast_and_blast]

If you are going to charge it, do so in an open area. I've seen these things melt down due to an internal short.

I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new battery.

Scott

 

[farmeratheart]

I don't want to beat a dead horse, but the other responders are on the right track, I'll bet. My 2305 that I've only had a few months (bought used with 200 hours) started and ran fine on a Monday in September, but would not start on the very next day. Several complicated (and expensive) scenarios ran through my head, but a wise friend told me to check the potential across the posts with a multimeter. I had ~10.5 volts-decided it was probably a bad cell-new battery-BACK IN BUSINESS!

Good Luck!

Frank

 

[farmeratheart]

forgot to mention-left the old battery (with the probable bad cell) on the charger overnight (2amp) before buying that new battery. It did not take a charge. Save your electrons !

 

[wxboy]

Well 24 hours later I'm convinced that the battery is shot(the voltage while charging after 24 hours was lower than when it started).

I still don't understand why the tractor would stall out after running for 45 minutes to an hour and why the fuse blows when I try to jump it though. So the next step is a new battery and more fuses. I won't be buying a Deere battery though at $143.27 if I can find a similar battery for less.

 

[Labrat]

It may not run without the battery because the fuel solenoid drops out without voltage.

 

[mfreund]

I have had this happen to me twice in my p/u 5 years apart. I drove somewhere and when I went to leave the battery would not even cause the starter solenoid to even click. Both times the truck needed a new battery. A very experienced Auto Tech told me the batteries now are made so "environmentally friendly" that more batteries die in the summer than in the winter. Both times mine died in August and I will tell you it is easier to sweat changing a battery than make frozen fingers work I would suggest a new battery in the tractor and then replace the fuse.

 

[wxboy]

Well it looks like it was the battery causing the fuse to blow. I unhooked the bad battery and hooked up jumper cables to a good battery then put a new fuse in. When I turned the key it started right up. I haven't run it yet because I didn't buy a replacement battery but it seems like it will be ok. Currently I'm searching for a better battery for the tractor based on the high cost of the Deere battery and the fact that it only lasted 2.5 years.

 

[wxboy]

Well the battery didn't fix everything after all. Drove it yesterday around the yard and it was fine. Today I engaged the pto to mow and within seconds the tractor shut down and I smelled the same burning smell that I smelled 2 weeks ago when the machine first shut down. I took the deck off, put a new fuse in and started it up then I engaged the mid pto with nothing attached to it and the tractor shut down again. So as long as I don't engage the pto the tractor runs fine but as soon as I engage the pto it blows the fuse and shuts down the tractor. Anyone had this happen before or have any idea what would cause it to happen?

 

[davkir]

Hopefully this will help.

 

[wxboy]

I haven't been able to solve the problem yet but something different happened today so I thought I would mention it in case it helps someone point me in the right direction.

Last week and today the tractor allowed me to mow for 10-15 minutes before the burning smell started and then I would shut it down on my own before the fuse blew. One time today I didn't shut it down when the burning smell occurred and then the pto stopped turning. I was mowing and didn't touch anything and the deck just stopped cutting. After disengaging the pto and letting it sit for a few minutes I engaged it again and the mower worked briefly and then within a couple of minutes it just stopped again. I engaged it again later and this time it blew the fuse.

Sound familiar to anyone? I don't know if the pto solenoid could act up like this but I don't know what else could.

 

[davkir]

It sounds like a short to me, but it could be other things too. Solenoid valves will draw more current if they are not completely engaged. It could have some debris interfering with it's motion or the pressure relief valve that apparently controls the pressure to the solenoid.
When you can smell something burning, does the switch, wiring or solenoid feel hot?

 

[wxboy]

Thanks for all of the diagrams davkir. The switch didn't feel hot today and last weekend I did check some wires that I could see but I wasn't sure where the solenoid was so I'm not really sure that I was checking the correct wires. The wires seemed warm but not hot. I also disconnected a couple of connections to inspect them and all looked good but again I'm not really sure that I was looking at the correct wires. The wires I was checking were on the back right hand side of the machine(when facing forward). I was basically reaching in above the right rear tire to access the wires.