2305 Forward aux. Lighting Problem

[impnst8]

I just attempted to install the aux. lighting kit (LVB25546), and hit a snag. The mounting of the brush guards and the lights went well. Even had no trouble fishing the wires thru the ROP. Now, the only additional wires in the 2305's rear harness, was a rectangle shaped connector with one black wire and one red w/yellow stripe wire. The connectors that came with the lighting package were a four to two, two purple two black to one purple and one black. And these were the round sockets. The instructions said to plug the two lights into the four wire side, and plug the two wire side into the tractor's wiring harness. What am I missing??? I checked the rectangular, red and black, and got power with the light switch. Did I get the wrong wiring harness, is my 2305 missing a harness, or am I missing something?

On a side note...got 15" of white stuff last week. It was the first time I had the FEL hitched. After the second or third pass, I noticed red fluid flowing from the front hydraulics. I shut down and found the all front hydraulic connections to only be finger tight. Guess my dealer forgot to tighten a few nuts. A few turns later, and I was back to work. Surprisingly, that little tractor couldn't be stopped. It did a fantastic job.

 

[curley]

You may want to check with your dealer. I had the same problem on my new 2520 and the rear light kit. The tractor was going back to them to attach the loader so I had them do it. When it returned they installed the light kit with the matching square plug that was not included in the kit. The lights as you said were barrell plugs and would not match the square plugs on the tractor. My guess is this is a standard harness for the older machines and the newer machines must need this newer harness.

 

[orlo]

Impnst8:

You may be ok. I had the same issue. 1st, the single square connector is intended for the rear light. If you put a tester on it you'll notice that it's live with the lights on, but goes dead with the lights and blinkers on (Since you wouldn't want a rear light on when your on a roadway with the blinkers).

The connectors you got are to put a T (or Y) connector in each of the tail light harnesses. You'll find them wire-tied to the ROPS support under the rear fender. I knew were mine were already since I put on a folding ROPS and had to disconnect both taillights anyway.

Try one first, the problem I had (and you'll notice this right away) is that the T connector flips a wire due to a gender difference. Lights Still worked, Blinker Still worked, but when the blinker and the light was on my Front work lights would blink - Not what I wanted to say the least..... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I cut one or two (I can't remember and I'm not near my tractor) wires on each of the harnesses and soldered/shrink tubed them back together with the genders on two swapped so I could see that it was just 'feeding' the lights and not swapping anything. Worked fine.

I suspect I got the wrong connector maybe, or it was made for another tractor but the connectors you are looking for are tucked up and strapped (within split wire wrap tubing) to the frame. You'll need to cut the wire tires (The kit came with new ones) in order to get to them.

Good luck.

I've since used that square connector for a 55W rear facing work light. (I welded a Rearward Tab dead center on the top of the ROPS). It works great and shuts off with the blinkers and lights on.

Also, FYI I was concerned about the 20 AMP alternator running all the lights, but I have had no issue and my battery keeps charging fine.

Good luck.

 

[turbo36]

Personally I want my rear light on as well as the flashers when I turn around on the road blowing my drive so I installed two new switches to control my forward and rear lights.

 

[impnst8]

I spoke with my dealer today, who in turn, presented the problem to his service manager. Neither was sure of the answer but suspected that I got an older light kit, which was originally made for the 2210. The parts number on the box was correct, but the part # on the instructions was different. They're looking into getting me the correct wiring harness, and will call me with any info they find.

 

[orlo]

Turbo: I like your idea the best. I thought about putting switches on the forward lights but the only blank in the dash was for the Cruise control (Which I don't have). Originally when I was worried about the load of the lights I was going to switch the front lights (Front headlights) also since with a FEL in use they don't shine too much.

Did you put the switches on the lights or on the dash?

 

[turbo36]

I mounted them below the dash on the wrap around cowling located just in front of my left knee, I used lighted switches I got from from the local auto parts store. The switch rating was capable of directly powering the lights so I did not need to use a relay. I ran a wire directly from the battery connection on the starter with an inline fuse for protection. I will post a pict tonight.

 

[PLUMBER]

I had the same problem with my 2520 got tired of dealer say DAH i dont know ,so i ended up cutting ends after checking with test lite for proper operation i connecet the wires with some high quility solder heat shrink connectors took about 10 minutes better than deeres connectors good luck

 

[turbo36]

Heres my 2305 with the standard JD mounted lights

 

[turbo36]

This is how I mounted the switches , I figured if I didn't like them here all I had to do was replace the access panel cover and not the dash.