2210 smokes on startup

MikeFromVA · Oct 6, 2004

( I also agree completely with what another poster said about DFA. I never add fuel with out it any more. The noise reduction alone makes it worth it. )

I must have missed this - what is DFA (___ Fuel Additive)? I haven't heard of it either.

mhalla · Oct 6, 2004

( I must have missed this - what is DFA (___ Fuel Additive)? I haven't heard of it either. )

DFA = Diesel Fuel Additive

I use the Power Service brand.

Mike

PDe · Oct 6, 2004

Break-in oil should be available at your dealer. I changed the oil/filter in my 2210 at 25 hrs and refilled the crankcase with break-in oil; then at the 50 hr mark I switched to JD surpreme 15w40. At 100 hrs I may switch again to Rotella synthetic.

csmclean · Oct 6, 2004

My relatively new (a mere 8.7 hours) 790 emits a puff of blue-white smoke on first startup (or a restart if it's not been running more than 10 minutes), then clears right up. Ambient temps have been no lower than about 55 F when I've used my tractor so far.

The oil looks clean as a whistle thus far.

If it's coolish, I use the preheat for about five seconds, reduces crank time and smoke. The engine in mine is direct injected, so uses a heater element in the intake manifold, vs. individual cylinder glow plugs (the 2210 uses the Yanmar 3TNE72 engine, I think, which is indirect injection).

I've let it idle for maybe 20-30 seconds before lifting the hitch (w/ mower) or the FEL. Seems fine. Occasionally, I get a slight stumble if I advance the throttle right after startup; I suspect the engine is still too cold to efficiently burn all fuel at that point.

Craig

Docsknotinn · Oct 7, 2004

As already mentioned DFA is Diesel fuel additive. Power service is popular and inexpensive but I don't reccomend it for winter use as PS does not contain any water dispersing capabilities. I found that out this spring when I pulled a rusted fuel filter from my 2210. I switch to FPPF in the winter or primrose or Schaeffers. Anything with a water package to help with the condensation.

johndeere2210 · Oct 18, 2004

I am service manager for a John Deere dealer and proud owner of a 2210. It is inherent for any diesel engine to smoke on start up. The 2210 will smoke a little more than other engines on cold start due the unique feature of an auto bleed fuel system. This enables us to run the engine out of fuel and simply fill the tank and restart the engine with out bleeding the air out of the system. This feature however, will cause a little more smoke on cold start due to a slightly longer cranking period which puts more fuel into the cylinders. This is entirely normal. I also noticed in another discussion that some people were upset with the dealer transportation for warranty work. John Deere will not pay for transportation or service calls to perform warranty service. The dealerships in our area will transport and do service calls but that particular service is charged back to the sales department provided the machine was purchased at that dealership. This policy has been in effect for over 30 years that I know of.

On a positive note, having been around Deere equipment most of my life, the 2210 is ultimate in lawn/acreage care equipment. It is small enough to be highly manuverable and powerfull enough to handle most any task. I have a FEL, 62" MMM, 48" tiller, 50" rear blade and 60" landscape rake with
I-Match hitch.

horseman1 · Oct 18, 2004

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense to me. The other things that were recommended didnt seem to help all that much, but were very good to know and understand. When it is cold is the only time it really smokes much.

Kurt

JD2210MAN · Oct 18, 2004

When my dealer sold me a 2210, he offered free Pick-Up and Delivery for all warrenty work. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
A very good sales incentive, along with many others. I never thought for a moment that Deere would pay them back.

horseman1 · Oct 24, 2004

Sorry to bring an older post back up to the front, but I wanted to make sure that I reported back that engaging the pre-heater did make a very big difference, like Dutch and others suggested. I was doing it wrong before and did not hold the key in the "start" position. I just turned it to the "on" position before. Much less smoke and a smoother start this time.

The method I used was to leave the tractor in gear and turn the key and hold it in the start position for about 5 seconds. I released the key, waited 5 seconds and repeated the process. Put her in Nuetral and it started right up with much less smoke and a much smoother idle right off.

Thanks!

Kurt

Dutch445 · Oct 25, 2004

Thanks for the report,,,

Glad it worked for you

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

fgross335_2210 · Oct 25, 2004

What I do find interesting though about transporting to and from the dealer is that Deere DOES cover this in their extended warranty - but not in the OEM warranty - just got the offer in the mail on my 2210.

Of course, after seeing the price for the warranty (over $2000) I'll just continue to do routine maintenance on this little beast myself and the eventual savings will not only pay for any dealer repairs, but also possibly for the trailer I will need to purchase to move it back and forth. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

trlong · Oct 26, 2004

Dutch,

Thank you, again, for your great info. Although my 4115 rarely smokes much at all (180 hr.s now since June), the weather is turning colder. So, I will take the advice to use the pre-heater. I had my owner's manual for a week before they were able to deliver the tractor and I read it cover to cover (and several times since as I do my own maintenace as much as possible). I recall nothing mentioned regarding pre-heater.

I wonder if J.D. thinks that the safety checks (turn key to start while not on seat, then in gear, then with PTO on...) are likely to be performed every time you start up....thereby engaging the "pre-heat" sufficiently? If just an oversight on J.D.'s part, they should send out a note to owners, explaining what you have explained.

Again, these forums are a treasure for a novice, such as myself.

Thanks,...Tom

"Once I had money, now I have a tractor"

J.D. 4115, 410 FEL, 46 BH, 60" Mower, 47" Snow Blower, 60" R. Blade, I-Match, 3' Cyl Splitter for good measure /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

jd4115 · Oct 26, 2004

On the 4115, the preheater comes on automatically when you turn the key from off to run. If you watch carefully, you can see the panel lights dim for just a second or three. Then I turn the key to the start position.

I've never had an engine start so quickly!

Dutch445 · Oct 26, 2004

Tom,
I'd be willing to bet that they just think the heater is sufficient as long as it's on while cranking. Not really sure.

and i had to answer this post today,, i think it's my 100th post... do i get a watch or something??

trlong · Oct 28, 2004

JD4115,

Thanks for the tip. You are absolutely correct. The dimming can be easily observed if one knows to look for it. And, as for the starting....the 4115's are almost scary how fast they start. I have heard some concerns as to whether that fast a start allows enough lubrication to occur.

Thanks again,

Tom

trlong · Oct 28, 2004

Dutch,

It appears the short duration pre-heating is sufficient as (previously stated) very little smoke and these 4115's start amazingly fast.

Congratulations on your 100th post. You should get a watch. I've got one you can have but, it's only right twice a day /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Cliff_Johns · Oct 28, 2004

( Congratulations on your 100th post. You should get a watch. I've got one you can have but, it's only right twice a day /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif )

Not to go too far off topic, but that watch could be right three times in one day on Monday depending on what time it's set for.

Cliff

Dutch445 · Oct 29, 2004

a new watch huh,
2 years ago my wife asked me what I wanted for father's day. My watch had broken, and I let her know that. but, no i never saw a watch.
in 3 weeks the divorce will be final.

hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

could have boughten lots of watches!
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

GreenDeerJohn · Nov 11, 2004

( ie, if the PTO is engaged at PTO rpm 

I'm not sure what I read is what you meant to say but you shouldn't engage the PTO at PTO rated speed. The PTO should be engaged at a much lower RPM. Somewhere a little above idle. This makes it easier on belts, clutches, shafts and so on. )

Billy,

A suggestion about PTO engagement. The PTO clutches on our machines use hydraulic pressure to engage the clutch plates. If the machine is at low RPM when you engage the PTO, you may be slipping the internal clutch plates do to low hydraulic pressure. I know I ready this in my old 445 manual somewhere, and the 2210 hydrostat is similar.

I recommend running the RPMs up to ~2000, engage the PTO, then run it up to your working RPM. You can disengage the PTO at any speed above the ~2000 RPM, but I would not pull it back to idle and then disengage. Again, the hydraulic system pressure is used to apply the PTO brake when disengaged. This makes create excessive wear on the PTO brake, and things may still be spinning when you hop off the machine.

Hope this helps.

John

bigpete · Nov 12, 2004

Something in my gut has me running the RPMs on my 4110 (and previously my 2210) to 1600-2000 RPMs to engage the PTO with the MMM. With my long-since retired 445, the owners manual, and common advice, specified WOT (wide open throttle) to engage the PTO for the MMM. In my mind, it's a 3-cylinder diesel versus a two-cylinder, fuel-injected gas Kawasaki in the 445 (not that there's anything wrong with that... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)