1967 m416 trailer

[moojamboo]

Hi all,

Just picked up a 1967 m416 1/4 ton trailer. Going to use with tractor for firewood, and jeep for general wood scrounging in general. I am sure lots of other uses as well.



Anyway she needs some tlc. I am interested in sandblasting the trailer, fixing metal, then paint and herculiner. I was thinking of buying a sandblasting kit to use with my compressor but have read a lot about the problems with old paint. This trailer has layer upon later paint, flaking pretty badly. I don't want it around my property (pets and 3 month old) nor trickled into my well, let alone breathing, in the shop, tools, garage, etc.

Can someone explain sandblasting to me? My wife wants me to take it there as is and just "have them do it". I would think that all the parts need to come apart first, or do they just do it as is put together? If I want a real good job wouldn't I want it apart to get into every nook and crany? Am I going to have the same lead issues in my gear simply taking it apart, it's flaking everywhere....

What type of cost is reasonable for the sand blasting? 109 inches tip of hitch to back, bed about 4 feet by 5 feet by 18 inches tall. Is cost different if I bring them separate parts vs. the trailer as is?

Advice would be appreciated!

 

[Ed of all trades]

To get a good job the trailer will need to be taken apart. If you will pay I am sure that someone would like to take it apart spray and reassemble. It is all up to you.

 

[moojamboo]

yeah, that's what I thought. If I take it apart, and I going to run into the flaky paint becoming an issue? So long as I don't grind it into dust (really just freeing up rusted bolts, separating metal) and I going to need get expensive respirators and worry about the paint?

 

[RoyJackson]

Considering the work you intend to do (with the trailer) and that the rust appears to be surface only (no deep stuff), I'd take it to a blaster and see what they suggest....which will probably be pulling the wheels and bearings.
Now, I'm thinking you'll want a serviceable trailer, not a show piece.

 

[moojamboo]

I want it protected and want it to last, but also want something fairly utilitarian. I want to use it! Any idea on cost? Even ballpark?

How much snow you guys get in Randolph? Up here in Underhill we got maybe 8 inches....

 

[RoyJackson]

I want it protected and want it to last, but also want something fairly utilitarian. I want to use it! Any idea on cost? Even ballpark?

How much snow you guys get in Randolph? Up here in Underhill we got maybe 8 inches....

Can't help you on the prices...we're recent transplants to Vermont.
However, I'd guess for just blasting (no primer or paint), you'll be in the $200-$500 range (the higher end if the blast shop has to pull the wheels and bearings). There is probably a minimum charge (hence the $200). But, that is a guess and might be way off base.

As far as snow, we got about 10-12 inches total. The wind was blowing with some gusting, so it's hard to tell exactly how much. The wind was not that strong today, but it was a biting cold wind chill.

 

[mangus580]

You may also want to check this thread out for ideas as you work on it....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...umping-offroad-military-trailer-new-post.html

 

[moojamboo]

Thank you for the link!

I just got the bed of mine separated from the frame today...going to wait to talk to the sand blaster tomorrow before taking it off...will use my bucket to lift a bit then roll the frame out. I think at least.

 

[crbr]

Thanks for the picture

 

[Diamondpilot]

Let someone else do the blasting. I got my snow plow completely done for $125 a few years ago.

Chris

 

[moojamboo]

Please enlighten someone that has never dealt with sandblasting, or restoration. If I get it sandblasted, should I also get it primed by them if possible? I don't want it rusting on the way home, it is Vermont there is snow, slush, salt, sand, etc, everywhere on the roads, forget what comes from the sky. I have been reading about epoxy primers, or some "etching" chemicals which help convert the remaining rust to some sort of an inert material to stop the rust? I have also read that after sand blasting things can be powder coated...in this case would that been feasible / worthwhile for objects as large as the frame and the tub, or is that typically for smaller objects?

I was initially thinking sandblast, primer, then tractor paint, with herculiner in the bed for protection. Does that make sense in my situation? Flying a little blind here...I have seem some beautifully restored trailers with all the bells and whistles, but I really want utility and longevity, not a car show diva. Firewood will be the #1 use of this when complete.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

They will primer it for you even though the surface rust incurred is a primer, red oxide, doh! You are smart to let them blast it. But if you want to have a great coat on it take it on over and get it powder coated. Powder coating is seven times harder than baked paint, tough stuff. The cost is less than if you had a commercial painter do the job and the finished product is better most of the time.

 

[moojamboo]

I read you need a giant oven, something large to "bake" the content in. Do most shop have the ability to bake these size items? I have seen much powder coating on hitches, control arms, etc, but not entire trailers, even if the trailer is small.

Also, lets say I go powder coating, does that mean I can't herculiner the inside of the bed? Will it stick to powder coated material?

How do you maintain powder coated material? Can you just "touch it up" if you get a scratch?

thanks all for the help, I will do my best to pay it back in the future.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

It does have to be baked at about 400 degrees. Ovens come in all sizes, where I get my stuff done whole cars can be done. If you are wanting tough then you might also look into what the powder coater has to offer. Powder coating is paint. Conventional paint uses thinners/solvents to enable the application of color material. Powder coating uses the baking process. If you look at your best paint jobs they are baked, not as hot as powder coating, but the heat is important.

 

[ovrszd]

I think everyone is overthinking this project. The Op has repeatedly said he's going to use this trailer.

1. As for the lead in the paint, forget about it. Your ancestors lived around lead paint everyday. No worries.
2. If you are set on sandblasting, take it intact and let them blast it. If you do that I'd wait until the roads are clear so it comes back home clean and ready to paint.
3. Forget about lining the bed. You're gonna throw wood and whatever else in it. Shoot paint and use it.
4. Powder coating,,,, forget about it. Once you start using the trailer you are going to chip, scratch and ding the paint. You can't spot fix powder coat. Paint the trailer with a common implement color that you can buy at your local hardware or tractor supply store. Then in a year when you want to touch it up a little you go to the store and buy a spray can of the same paint.
5. Focus on the fact that you are going to use this trailer. First thing that's needed is the hitch needs fixed. The added drop in the hitch appears to be WAYYYY to much. The trailer came with a straight tongue with a pintle ring. I'd use a ball hitch, but that's just me.

In the end you have a very durable trailer that you cannot wear out.

 

[moojamboo]

@ovrszd - wouldnt lining the bed with herculiner or the generic alternative protect the bed when I put firewood in it? I thought that would actually help protect the existing 1967 floor, which is probably not as thick as it was from the factory.

I am hoping that whoever I find to sandblast is the one who puts a primer on it so I can do project work before I really need her this summer. Waiting for some call backs as I type.

In terms of the hitch, it IS a little weird, but fits on my wrangler (not lifted) with just a little slant back of the trailer bed. I figure when I replace my leaf-springs on the trailer it will solve this problem, as the trailer itself would raise up, making it flat? I know that the pintle ring would be original equipment, but it would require me tweaking my jeep hitch to be higher, and almost guaranteeing that it then could not work with my subarus down the road if I ever wanted a simple ball hitch. I was thinking of leaving as is for now.

 

[ovrszd]

@ovrszd - wouldnt lining the bed with herculiner or the generic alternative protect the bed when I put firewood in it? I thought that would actually help protect the existing 1967 floor, which is probably not as thick as it was from the factory.

I am hoping that whoever I find to sandblast is the one who puts a primer on it so I can do project work before I really need her this summer. Waiting for some call backs as I type.

In terms of the hitch, it IS a little weird, but fits on my wrangler (not lifted) with just a little slant back of the trailer bed. I figure when I replace my leaf-springs on the trailer it will solve this problem, as the trailer itself would raise up, making it flat? I know that the pintle ring would be original equipment, but it would require me tweaking my jeep hitch to be higher, and almost guaranteeing that it then could not work with my subarus down the road if I ever wanted a simple ball hitch. I was thinking of leaving as is for now.

I'm confident that the existing bed floor is thicker than anything you could buy today. How ya reckon it lasted 46 years without bedliner?? If you want to make it pretty, bedline it. If you want to use it, shoot some paint on it. Again,,, the first time you haul a load of wood you are going to ding and scratch whatever you put on it.

One issue those trailers have is that the axle is a bit too close to center of the bed. Makes it hard to get weight on the tongue. A two wheel trailer loaded with little or no weight on the tongue is an accident waiting to happen if towed at road speed. So with that said, you need the bed to "slant" forward, front of bed a little lower than rear of bed when loaded to put more weight on the tongue. Whoever built that hitch must have towed with a car.

When that trailer was built it was intended to be pulled by a military jeep. The jeep then was built with independent suspension on both ends. Used something similar to what's under an old VW Beetle. They were notorious for tipping over sideways. Especially when GIs improperly loaded that trailer. Had a severe case of "wag the dog".

Enjoy your project. It's unique.

 

[moojamboo]

So I called around, and I found a guy who really does seem reasonable and know what he is doing in my area. Others in my area have been MORE , but even the costs for this on his estimate seem to be way more than I want to spend for something I really want to use, and maybe have sit out (under some sort of cover - maybe) when not being used. So here is the prices he quoted:

Abrasive Blasting of Body, Fenders and Frame: $525 (5 hours at $105/hr)
Abrasive Blasting of Wheels $60
Two coats of Epoxy Primer $290 (5 hours at $58/hr)
Shop Materials $20
Waste $5

So I am looking at $900 dollars before I get into welding to fix issues that need it, bed liner (herculiner), new leaf springs, maybe new tires, tailgate (probably just get some sort of chain mounts welded on), and getting lighting's to work from it to jeep, and then painting. I got to think that I am talking maybe what another $500 dollars (with welding and leaf springs being the biggest expense) at a minimum.

So initial cost is $275 (pretty happy about that - it DOES function now as a trailer, and I could use it in about 5 minutes if I needed to to move wood.)
$900 initial cosmetic work
$500 for welding and parts (at least in my opinion)

So so far I am up to $1675 for an unregistered trailer that will sit outside when not in use, and be used primarily for firewood, and I would really think no more than 50% of its time off my property. The vast use of it is on property in woods. Could me even as high as 90% on property. I can't even start scrounging firewood till I get her working, these are all guesstimates.

So, I think that while I initially thought that this was a great idea to restore the "right" way initially, I now will try to think about dramatically cheaper, get her on the road, options..... What do you guys think? My entire mindset of restored trailer doesn't fit with the associated cost....ever watch the movie The Money Pit? Ended up great in the end, but man did it cost....

So, let me hear it!!@

 

[PAGUY]

Glad to see you took off the rose colored glasses and came back to reality.

For what you want to haul it just isn't worth sinking all that money into something that is 46 yrs old and has seen better days. You could buy a new trailer that will haul wood and do miscellaneous chores around the property and NO refurbishing everything from the ground up.

Paint the trailer and use it around your property but don't bother registering for road use. It just doesn't seem feasible to sink money into something you plan on abusing by hauling god knows what. Something like that only qualifies for full restoration if it was for a display purpose.

 

[RoyJackson]

So, I think that while I initially thought that this was a great idea to restore the "right" way initially...

So, let me hear it!!@

Well, I picked up a home built trailer for $200. It was titled for the road, but I never registered it. The tasks I had were similar to yours and I never did anything to it but load it with wood and brush.
So, I'd get some cans of Rustoleam and go to work...