Just acquired a 1948 Ford 8N, that runs fine. Trying to restore it to as original as my pocketbook will allow. Therefore a little at a time. There was no cable coming off the back of governor, so then looked and learned it went to a tachometer/proofmeter on the dash. But there is no tach or 3 1/2" hole for the meter anywhere. Was there a different way it was installed ?
1948 8N
- Thread starter Davenj4f
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EdGooding
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- 2006 Massey-Ferguson MF-1533, 1973 Ford 3000, 1952 Ford 8N
The '48 8N did not come from the factory with the Proofmeter, so you would not install one if you want to restore it to the correct factory standards. The Proofmeter was introduced in 1950 at serial number 290271.
KCTractors
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Your governor was replaced with a newer style of governor.
Thanks for the info guys.
Let's say for the sake of argument I wanted to attach a tach anyway. The operator's manual talks about doing certain things at specific rpms. If wanted to attach one anyway, would I use the regular tach and tach drive cable ?
John0829
Veteran Member
If you want to add a tach and use the drive from the governor then it will have to be a tach for a 1950-52 model 8N. If I were going to do that I would just find a dash for that model tractor and change it out.
You can maybe find an electric tach of some sort that can be made to work if staying original is not important to you.
Just for what it worth, I never pay any attention to the tach on my tractors, other than maybe an occasional glance out of curiosity. I go by the sound of the engine as it is working. Give the engine enough gas/rpm's to do the job without the engine laboring or straining and don't worry about a tach unless you just want one.
You can maybe find an electric tach of some sort that can be made to work if staying original is not important to you.
Just for what it worth, I never pay any attention to the tach on my tractors, other than maybe an occasional glance out of curiosity. I go by the sound of the engine as it is working. Give the engine enough gas/rpm's to do the job without the engine laboring or straining and don't worry about a tach unless you just want one.
Thanks for the reply. When I say keeping it original, I mean not modifying what's already there. Adding something without destroying what's already there doesn't bother me too much. That was more of a curiosity question. If I was to come across a tach I just wondered if it would hook up.
EdGooding
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You can buy a new Proofmeter for around $33. You can either cut the hole in your current dash panel or find one from a '50-528N. If you don't have the drive cable between the governor and Proofmeter, then you'll need to buy that, too (about another $33). The one advantage over a typical tach is the hour meter that you can use for scheduling maintenance.
If you want to learn more about the Proofmeter, you can download an original marketing brochure for it here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/service-troubleshooting/How to use the Proofmeter.pdf
Have another issue. Trying to get the grille to fit. The spring loaded tabs at the two upper corners don't mate with the corresponding holes in the hood. The grille is not bent that I can see, there is no gap between the hood and side hood. None of the sheet metal at the hinge point of the grille at the bottom appears bent or out of place. I wonder if there is another issue I'm not familiar with.
Attachments
John0829
Veteran Member
The hoods of the N tractors are a jigsaw puzzle and it can be a real trial getting all the parts to line up correctly. You probably need to loosen up the bolts holding the doglegs to the hood and tweak things to make it all line up.
For the record I have never seen a hood on an "N" tractor that fit very well.
For the record I have never seen a hood on an "N" tractor that fit very well.
Have another question. Trying to install a new boot at the bottom of the gearshift. Needless to say, it's a bear. Is there a special way to do that ? Or just get help and pull and tug ?
John0829
Veteran Member
Put it in really hot boiling water for a while, it will make it much easier to put on.
Thanks, I'll try this.
John0829
Veteran Member
Use whatever you want, personally if the engine is old and tired then 15w40 would be a good choice but if the engine is reasonably fresh then 10w30. The old Fords are not picky about oil, as long as it shows at least 5 lbs. of pressure it is good to go for MANY years.
Dad had a 49 8N. Ran 15w40 Rotella conventional oil in it. Never a complaint from the 8N. Matter of fact that oil went into everything with a gas or diesel engine. Only oil he stocked
Thanks for the input. I figured the answer would be something like that. BTW, I run 30w HD diesel in my commercial mower.
California
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As a gas engine, would ordinary 10-30 be preferable to Diesel rated oil?
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