Mowing 1026R Wheel Spacers?

[DeereMann]

Where did you see the lug bolts at Deere parts? I looked and couldn't find any, then had my dealer look and he couldn't find any. I ended up ordering some expensive hex bolts and used regular car lug nuts of the appropriate hardness. I thought about trying the lug bolts in your link up above, but wasn't sure on the quality of them.

Go to the Deere online parts catalogue --> https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

Type in your model tractor. Scroll to the Wheels menu. Look at the parts breakdown for the wheel lug bolt part number. Click on the hotlink, you will see the bolt attributes.

The longer, discontinued bolt was provided by 'etcallhome' in an earlier thread. Deere has since discontinued it, no local warehouse stock either.

I would be leery of hex bolts - they don't clamp the same surface area as the ball head bolts do.

 

[RG1]

Go to the Deere online parts catalogue --> https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

Type in your model tractor. Scroll to the Wheels menu. Look at the parts breakdown for the wheel lug bolt part number. Click on the hotlink, you will see the bolt attributes.

The longer, discontinued bolt was provided by 'etcallhome' in an earlier thread. Deere has since discontinued it, no local warehouse stock either.

I would be leery of hex bolts - they don't clamp the same surface area as the ball head bolts do.

I appreciate the link, but it takes me to where I have been searching already, and I have been all over JD parts for my machine ( and a couple others I have owned in the past to see if their lug bolts would work). Unfortunately, they show my wheels and valve stems that came on my tractor, but not the actual lug bolts in any of the parts breakdown schematics. My tractor is a 4115, not a 1 series, so maybe that's why.

As for the hex bolts, I will be using grade 10.9 which are what I have now, and running them in from the back side of the axle flange and using blue loc-tite and lock washers on the back side, then using the same grade of tapered lug nut for the outside just like on a truck. The tapered lug nuts fir the rims I am using like they should since these rims are lug-centric as well as hub-centric.

 

[DeereMann]

Sorry for that, RG1 -

I didn't know you were looking for a 4000 series tractor lug bolt. Did you look at all the Parts menus? Sometimes they put the lug bolts in subassemblies you wouldn't expect them to be in, like 'drive axle' or something.

I suggest skipping the lockwashers - we do not use them here at work on our powertrains or structures. They are unreliable & crack over time, losing retention capbility completely. We use 'blue' Loc-Tite (#242), as do most automotive companies. That's all you need.

Glad you can fin lug nuts that fit!

Meantime, I dropped a note to Bro-Tek (spacer mfg.) asking what their bolts are. Got auto-response, on vacation. *sigh* :duh:

How can something sooooo simple be this much work?

 

[RG1]

Sorry for that, RG1 -

I didn't know you were looking for a 4000 series tractor lug bolt. Did you look at all the Parts menus? Sometimes they put the lug bolts in subassemblies you wouldn't expect them to be in, like 'drive axle' or something.

I suggest skipping the lockwashers - we do not use them here at work on our powertrains or structures. They are unreliable & crack over time, losing retention capbility completely. We use 'blue' Loc-Tite (#242), as do most automotive companies. That's all you need.

Glad you can fin lug nuts that fit!

Meantime, I dropped a note to Bro-Tek (spacer mfg.) asking what their bolts are. Got auto-response, on vacation. *sigh* :duh:

How can something sooooo simple be this much work?

I appreciate your responses here, believe me.
yes, this can get way too complicated for no real reason other than the manu's don't always givee us what we want or need.

I have looked through every single sub link for my machine to no avail, and as said, I even tried some others hoping to find something that would work.

However. I got to thinking about something you posted above, so I called a local dealer to see if they could tell me what I want to know, but haven't hear back yet. maybe you can tell me instead and save me some time Ha!! Are the rear lug bolts for the 1 series 12mm, and if so, how long are they from the bottom o the head to end of shank? Also, are they either ball or tapered just below the head. either would work for the rims I have if they are long enough and would probably be cheaper than what have coming.

 

[DeereMann]

I appreciate your responses here, believe me.
yes, this can get way too complicated for no real reason other than the manu's don't always givee us what we want or need.

I have looked through every single sub link for my machine to no avail, and as said, I even tried some others hoping to find something that would work.

However. I got to thinking about something you posted above, so I called a local dealer to see if they could tell me what I want to know, but haven't hear back yet. maybe you can tell me instead and save me some time Ha!! Are the rear lug bolts for the 1 series 12mm, and if so, how long are they from the bottom o the head to end of shank? Also, are they either ball or tapered just below the head. either would work for the rims I have if they are long enough and would probably be cheaper than what have coming.

np, RG1 -

I can do better than that, I can attach the 1000 Series Tractor rear lug nut part specs right from Deere's parts list website.....View attachment LVU23280 JD 1026R Wheel Bolt.pdf

Keep in mind they show two styles of bolt, tapered head & ball head. Well, my tractor ONLY takes the ball head, so I don't know what they were trying to do here. Mine is a 2012 model year. They wasted a bunch of my time, effort & money.

Other answers:
Are the rear lug bolts for the 1 series 12mm? Yes - but - they are also 1.25 mm pitch - this is ULTRA fine metric thread, very uncommon (thanks, Yanmar!). You can not interchange 1.25 mm ultra fine pitch thread with 1.50 fine thread (which is much more commonly available).
if so, how long are they from the bottom o the head to end of shank? 20.770 mm thread length (see spec sheet), I confirmed (measured) from my tractor.
are they either ball or tapered just below the head? Mine are ball. Tapered will not work on mine - insufficient contact area on wheel rim & hub.

I bought tapered head M12x1.25-29mm long bolts, if you are interested. They are strength class 8.8 though. I was going to send them back.

 

[RG1]

Thanks a ton for the link there. That has all the specs I wanted to see. Either of them would work for me except for the fact that they are too short. I need at least 30mm of thread shank to work correctly.

Finding 12mm bolts are not a problem as long as you don't need 1.25 pitch threads. Then, almost all of them I could find were 1.25 pitch at grade 8.8 (= to grade 5 here), not what I want/need. A couple local hardware stores had exactly what I need..... just not enough of them at one place, and i want them all to match, not to mention the fuel used to run 20 miles here, 30 miles there made ordering them more cost effective for me. I ordered what I needed from a local Fastenal store. I orderd them zinc plated like the OEM bolts too. They should be here tomorrow or Fri. Not cheap either.

 

[PsRumors]

Go to the Deere online parts catalogue --> https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

Type in your model tractor. Scroll to the Wheels menu. Look at the parts breakdown for the wheel lug bolt part number. Click on the hotlink, you will see the bolt attributes.

The longer, discontinued bolt was provided by 'etcallhome' in an earlier thread. Deere has since discontinued it, no local warehouse stock either.

I would be leery of hex bolts - they don't clamp the same surface area as the ball head bolts do.

How about converting to studs and then using a lug nut?

Wheel accessories from Upgrade Motoring

 

[DeereMann]

How about converting to studs and then using a lug nut?

Wheel accessories from Upgrade Motoring

Yeah, I'm considering it. I was gonna pay one last visit to Bro-tek (Richard) to see what he has first.

Thanks for the link.

 

[RG1]

How about converting to studs and then using a lug nut?

Wheel accessories from Upgrade Motoring

I don't want to do that because I want to be able to go back and forth between my R1's and the original R4's that came on it and they require two different types of lug bolts. I think I'm on the right track and I'll know shortly.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Try McMaster-Carr... have every hardware item you can think of and impossibly fast shipping. Yesterday afternoon around 3:30 pm I ordered a bearring for a piece of equipment at work. They said it will be there today... and I'm sure it will. $50 bearring, $7 shipping, std rate, no extra charge.

 

[RG1]

Try McMaster-Carr... have every hardware item you can think of and impossibly fast shipping. Yesterday afternoon around 3:30 pm I ordered a bearring for a piece of equipment at work. They said it will be there today... and I'm sure it will. $50 bearring, $7 shipping, std rate, no extra charge.

I tried them. they said they are only a supplier, and the lug bolts I need are not something they can get from any of their sources. Fastenal came through though, and are supposed to have them today. We shall see.......

 

[DeereMann]

I found a conversion kit on RG1's website link above that converts ball seat to cone seat. I think I will try that, as once the spacers are installed with these, there should be (hah!) no need to ever remove them again - so no need for using a conversion stud/nut kit.

Bro-Tek provides studs & nuts for the wheel-to-spacer attachment, and even if they don't provide ball seat nuts, those are relatively easy to find - but not the bolts.

 

[RG1]

I found a conversion kit on RG1's website link above that converts ball seat to cone seat. I think I will try that, as once the spacers are installed with these, there should be (hah!) no need to ever remove them again - so no need for using a conversion stud/nut kit.

Bro-Tek provides studs & nuts for the wheel-to-spacer attachment, and even if they don't provide ball seat nuts, those are relatively easy to find - but not the bolts.

I think you are referring to PsRumors link in my post where I quoted him? Just want to give credit where due.

 

[DeereMann]

Thanks, I tried M-C. Nothing.

I've thought about this some more. Perhaps I have been thinking about this backwards. Bro-Tek's spacer attaches to the hub instead of the wheel. Presuming they didn't machine a ball seat into the spacer thru hole, their supplied hardware should fit, right? As long as it is M12x1.25 thread & long enough.

They supply studs from the spacer to the wheel, again, presumably M12. So what is actually needed is a ball radius NUT, not bolt. And, barring availability of that, I have found a number of ball seat to taper seat conversion washers on the web, to use a plain, old tapered nut.

What a hassle!

 

[J F]

If you haven't seen this thread, you may want to take a look: http://www.****************.com/for...scut/6054-1026r-wheel-spacers-supplier-3.html (it's.... green tractor talk... for the *****)

Post # 23 (and then see #29 also)

So the wheel spacers arrived! Well machined and supplied with studs and 60 degree tapered nuts.

I did discover however that the original 1026R rear wheel tapered bolts were too short. After some digging, it turns out that John deere sells a longer wheel stud so I ordered 10 of them today. The stock studs would have been about 3 mm too short to properly fit and distribute the load to the hub. The stock ones are 23.25mm long and ones I ordered are a John deere part LVU19960 which are longer at 28mm so I should be fine. I also verified that the same 19mm socket will fit fine intomthe spacer bores where the longer bolts will be attached. I just need to be patient and wait for the longer bolts!

Pics attached!

 

[DeereMann]

Yup - that thread is where I found the longer Deere lug bolt - but as I stated in previous posts, it is no longer available & I checked inventory in the midwest - nothing.

The key question now is what did Bro-Tek machine into the spacer for screw seat to attach to the tractor hub flange? Usually that is cone seat bolt. If that's the case, I'm ok there cause I bought cone seat bolts (earlier post) that are long enough.

For the wheel attach mounting to the spacer - the wheel has ball seat-machined holes. So if Bro-Tek's lug nuts aren't ball seat, I need to find ball seat lug nuts or ball seat - to - cone seat conversion washers for 12mm diameter studs.

Bro-Tek is out on vacation so I am stuck for now or until the spacers arrive.

Thanks for thoughts.

 

[PsRumors]

In anticipation of some day having spacers, I checked with my dealer on the LVU19960 lug bolts. They were able to order 10 without issue. Now let's see if they come in.

 

[DeereMann]

I wonder why my Dealer said there aren't any available? I bet he knows what I'm up to.

 

[RG1]

I wonder why my Dealer said there aren't any available? I bet he knows what I'm up to.

One thing I can't stand about JD- too many of their dealers will look at what they have available at their store or stores, and if they don't have it in stock, they will simply claim it isn't available without actually checking, or simply because they don't want to order something in and then have the buyer back out leaving them stuck with it. Been through that at too many dealers now, far more than should ever happen, especially for such a large company that claims to put their customers first. Un huh, right.

 

[PsRumors]

I wonder why my Dealer said there aren't any available? I bet he knows what I'm up to.

JD parts says the LVU19960 is no longer available. Maybe there are still some in the regional warehouse?

Crazy