10 hours greasing help

[Dr_Zinj]

The moly stuff you have listed should work just fine. Grease it regularly. Make sure you clean off the zerks before greasing (shoving dirt in under pressure is counter productive.)

 

[jeff9366]

I like the new color/clear based grease better than the black stuff because it doesn't look such a mess around the pivot points.

Page 19, MAINTENANCE, in manual for Kubota LA504 Front Loader: High quality grease designated "extreme pressure" and containing Molybdenum disulfide is recommended.

The "black" in the grease you do not like is Molybdenum disulfide.

Molly maintains its lubricity even with almost complete loss of grease carrier at at temps up to 350 degrees. It is so effective 3% molly is the usual amount added to grease base as an enhancement.

You can spend more but for tractors Molly EP grease is as effective as anything more expensive.

It is BLACK, sticky stuff.

 

[Recoveryhill]

In another lifetime I made a ton of money machining and replacing pins and bushings on backhoe arms and buckets. Never were we at risk of grease contamination, they were loose as a goose and dry as a bone upon arrival!

I stand firm in the camp that says any grease regularly applied beats the best grease on the planet not applied.

 

[k0ua]

I stand firm in the camp that says any grease regularly applied beats the best grease on the planet not applied.

Count me in this group.:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

Yeah, count me in as well. Moly for the loader and regular EP for everything else. You should invest in a lifetime source of rags too, since that dam* moly gets on everything known to man, including you.

Sean

 

[troutsqueezer]

For a constant source of good rags what I do is make sure I keep gaining weight so I always have nice T shirts that don't fit anymore to use on the tractor.

 

[dfortier]

Well after a few hours and 2 trips to the 2 differant stores and 2 differant air grease guns, i got it finished last night....... the actual job only took about an hour (most of that was cleaning the old grease and dirt off the fittings). Since i had never used a pneunmatic before i just assumed i was doing something wrong a messed around with the first one for over an hour, it was defective. Of caorse they didnt have another new one so i had to go to another store. im sure next time will go much smoother now that i have an idea of what im doing.

another question, any reason i cant use the same grease on the mower deck as well? i know it doesnt call for the moly compound, but it wont hurt it, right?

thanks again for all the input

 

[vrmnthntr]

How do you like the pneumatic grease gun over the manual one?

I use the same grease gun for everything. I don't know if thats bad practice but I've never encountered any problems. As said before, regular greasing is better than no grease.

Growing up working on a family farm we used the same grease for everything. Combines, tractors, planters, bearings. Combines have a lot. With that expensive equipment grease was cheap. Saved downtime on fixing things.

 

[dfortier]

once I got it working, it was really nice. you do have to keep an eye on it though as it seems more susceptible to air pockets.

I don't see how the moly compound could hurt it is listed as a "dry lube", but I figured id ask

 

[gssixgun]

LA680 FEL here, and my manual simply states "Multi-Purpose Grease" I just finished doing a complete maintenance schedule since I bought the tractor over the winter, seems the previous owner kept up with the maintenance pretty well, the tractor and FEL were well greased but very messy, I cleaned it all up as best as possible and re-greased everything..

 

[murphy1244]

For a constant source of good rags what I do is make sure I keep gaining weight so I always have nice T shirts that don't fit anymore to use on the tractor.

Good point! That thinking ahead.

 

[Ken45101]

Some greases are incompatible with each other and can cause lubrication failure. I try to stick to one grease and buy it by the case so that I don't have to worry about compatibility.

My JD skid steer only needs the pivots greased every 50 hours (I do it more often than that). One of JD's recommendations is their Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Gun Grease - TY6341. It seems to be a pretty broad use grease:

Ideal in rolling-contact applications
-15 to 350?ｰF (-26 to 177?ｰC)
For high-temperature, extreme-pressure conditions
Used for initial lubrication at the factory in U-joints and axle bearings
For excellent protection in corrosive and wet conditions
Compatible with most other types of grease
Excellent for all-purpose applications, especially those requiring a severe-duty grease
Our best multi-purpose grease

At $4/tube, it's not too expensive and is readily available at Deere dealers.

It doesn't have Moly Disulfide, so I guess that's a drawback. But one broad spectrum grease used frequently seems to be a good way to go for me.

Deer's only moly grease has more limited applications:

Special-Purpose HD Moly Grease (TY6333, TY22017, TY24502, TY26980, TY26981)
Application
ｷ High-temperature, extreme-pressure grease with 3% moly
ｷ A premium, high-quality grease
ｷ -10 to 350ｰF (-23 to 177ｰC)
ｷ Use with pins and bushings, ball joints
ｷ Use where shock load and sliding contact are continuous
ｷ For chain, cable, and conveyor lubrication
ｷ For applications where pitting, scoring, and wear failures are a problem
ｷ Compatible with lithium, aluminum, and calcium greases

So do you want a general purpose grease for everything, or separate grease guns for different use?

Here is another note:

Avoid use of John Deere Moly High Temperature EP Grease on high speed applications such as mower spindles and the rear axle.

YMMV