10 hour service on 2550

[Dascro]

I completed the 10 hour service on my 2550 today as recommended by the owners manual. Everything went pretty good including changing the hydro filter after lifting the front end up in the air as high as a floor jack could lift. I only lost about 3/4 qt of fluid.

However, while greasing the mower moveable idler pulley, the zerk pulled out when I removed the grease gun. Generally specking, I hate press in zerks!

Anyhow, had to remove the idler pulley assembly, drilll out the zerk hole, cut threads with a tap, and thread in a quality zerk.

All is well and I mowed with the tractor shortly after. But I was a little dissapointed that I had to replace a zerk during the first greasing.

On another note, I applied a second coat of Mo Deck while I was working on the deck (after I cleaned it). I checked it after mowing tonight and frankly am less than impressed with the Mo Deck product. It is quite dry here anad the grass is not full of water at all and I still had the same about of grass clipping build up under the deck. I'll give it some more time and use up the whole can of Mo Deck, but I am beginning to doubt its effectiveness.

Dave

 

[Fordlords]

Ditto on the press in zerks. I bought new spindle assemblies from Cub for my 44C deck when I rebuilt it, and the press in zerks fell out on me too. I also ended up putting on thread in zerks. Some guys say a little loctite will hold the press in zerks in place if you don't want to tap the holes.
-Fordlords-

 

[Northstar]

I just finished the 10 hour service on my 2544. I found I was missing one lug nut, and one of the deck wash connections is missing. Also I'm not sure where the front axle pivot bolt is, I can't find a grease fitting for it. Other than that all went well . I had a problem with the engine coughing when I shut down but 93 octane seems to take care of that.

 

[Dascro]

Northstar,

The zerk for the front axle pivot bolt is on the "bottom" of the front axle directly at the mid-point of the pivot point for the front axle (i.e. directly under the pivot bolt). At least that is where it is on my 2550 and I see no reason why it would be different on your 2544.

Also, I've seen a lot of remedies on this forum to minimize the engine continuing to "run on" after being turned off. Mine is worse when I try to shut it off after a long mowing session. But I don't think its that bad overall on mine. Given the ever increasing gas prices, running 92 octane may be an expensive fix in the long run. I don't think the sputtering and "run on" hurts anything, its just annoying.

Dave

 

[JSharp]

On my 2554 I had trouble with the press in zerks too. Like Dascro I pulled the combination pulley and fitted it with a 1/4 X 28 threaded zerk. Some of the others were repaired by the dealer on warranty when my tractor was in for the steering recall. I was going to do the rest on the machine as needed but replacing some of them will require disassembly I don't feel like doing, especially on a basically new $4000 machine.

Talking to the farmers in the area, it seems lots of new equipment uses these darn things. Enough equipment uses them that the auto parts store where my son works keeps them in stock. Looking at my tractor I decided that many of them just hadn't been driven in far enough at the factory. I used a small socket on a couple to drive them in completely and they've been fine through multiple greasings.

I also bought this $5 tool from of all places, Amazon. It should make the job easier in the future -

Amazon.com: Lumax Drive Grease Fitting Tool, Straight: Automotive

As far as engine run on, I've not seen that. I shut the engine down at 3/4 - full throttle. That's the procedure I've heard to eliminate back firing. Even though I don't like it doing it for some reason, that's what I do and I've never had a problem.

 

[Northstar]

Dave,
Thank's I found the pivot bolt fitting, right where you said it was. 93 octane is a little more expensive, and I tried to throttle back before shutting her down but it still backfires. I could live with it if it weren't for the smirk on my neighbors face (JD owner). Thanks

 

[JSharp]

Dave,
Thank's I found the pivot bolt fitting, right where you said it was. 93 octane is a little more expensive, and I tried to throttle back before shutting her down but it still backfires. I could live with it if it weren't for the smirk on my neighbors face (JD owner). Thanks

Try leaving the throttle wide open when you shut down and see what that does...

 

[Dascro]

Happy to have been able to help you out a little, Northstar.

Dave

 

[GRB]

Hey guys, not to hijack the thread, but I saw the comment about a steering recall. I have a 2005 GT 2550 and never received anything about a steering recall. Does anyone have any detail on the recall?

Thanks.

 

[JSharp]

Hey guys, not to hijack the thread, but I saw the comment about a steering recall. I have a 2005 GT 2550 and never received anything about a steering recall. Does anyone have any detail on the recall?

Thanks.

The early '06 2554 models had a recall to add an additional zerk on the steering shaft lower bushing right above the pinion gear and possibly some other steering work. My dealer had mine one day and it came back with the new zerk but I couldn't tell what else had been done if anything. I don't know if other models were effected...

 

[GRB]

Thanks, I will check with dealer.

 

[LBrown59]

I just finished the 10 hour service on my 2544. I found I was missing one lug nut, and one of the deck wash connections is missing. Also I'm not sure where the front axle pivot bolt is, I can't find a grease fitting for it. Other than that all went well . I had a problem with the engine coughing when I shut down but
*93 octane seems to take care of that.

*Reving the motor up then cutting the switch will cure it a lot cheaper.
My 2554 burns enough $3.09 #89 with out going to the more expensive # 93!

 

[GRB]

Front axle pivot bolt is underneath the junction where the two front axles come together. It is hidden from sight unless you get underneath the tractor.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

*Reving the motor up then cutting the switch will cure it a lot cheaper.
My 2554 burns enough $3.09 #89 with out going to the more expensive # 93!

Why are you using 89? 87 octane will work fine. The engine is not high enough compression ratio to require anything higher. My antique 1958 Harley gets 35 mpg on regular gas and drops to 33 with premium. I tested it enough to verify that it wasn't just a fluke. Higher octane fuel burns more slowly to prevent detonation. On a low compression engine the fuel may not be completely burned at the end of the power stroke so part of the energy is wasted.

Bob B.

 

[jay25rs]

Why are you using 89? 87 octane will work fine. The engine is not high enough compression ratio to require anything higher.

Bob B.

For me, I also use 89 octane. When fuel sits, the Octane rating will eventually drop with age. So by going with a couple point higher fuel, I help to prevent this problem. My leaf blower indicates that it requires 89 octane or higher. Having fuel on hand that I could run in all equipment is a plus also. I have a larger fuel container that I pour fuel off of to mix my 2 cycle mixes for the smaller tools.

 

[LBrown59]

Why are you using 89? 87 octane will work fine. The engine is not high enough compression ratio to require anything higher. My antique 1958 Harley gets 35 mpg on regular gas and drops to 33 with premium. I tested it enough to verify that it wasn't just a fluke. Higher octane fuel burns more slowly to prevent detonation. On a low compression engine the fuel may not be completely burned at the end of the power stroke so part of the energy is wasted.

Bob B.

I don't use 89 .
I use 87.
89 was a Typo.

 

[TractorLarry]

I think high octane can also be hard on the valves, too.

89 is a weird blend of fuel. I don't think they raise the octane in that by usual means. I think they use alchohol or some other additive.

-Larry

Why are you using 89? 87 octane will work fine. The engine is not high enough compression ratio to require anything higher. My antique 1958 Harley gets 35 mpg on regular gas and drops to 33 with premium. I tested it enough to verify that it wasn't just a fluke. Higher octane fuel burns more slowly to prevent detonation. On a low compression engine the fuel may not be completely burned at the end of the power stroke so part of the energy is wasted.

Bob B.

 

[JSharp]

I think high octane can also be hard on the valves, too.

89 is a weird blend of fuel. I don't think they raise the octane in that by usual means. I think they use alchohol or some other additive.

-Larry

Here in Illinois it's virtually impossible to find fuel without alcohol...

 

[ChipSmith]

89 is a weird blend of fuel. I don't think they raise the octane in that by usual means. I think they use alchohol or some other additive.

89 octane gas is a mixture of regular unleaded (87 octane) and premium unleaded (91-93 octane, depending on brand). Some gas stations only have two tanks - one for regular, one for premium - and utilize blender pumps to dispense 89 octane mid-grade. These pumps use to be able to identified by only having one nozzle for all grades. Now some of the newer pumps only have one nozzle even though the station may have separate tanks for each grade of gas.

As for the alcohol in gasoline, ethanol is being used as the replacement for MTBE (Methyl tert-butyl ether) which was used to oxygenate gas, but now is being phased out due to concerns of it contaminating drinking water.