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Drain it, remove the wheel, unvolt the straps, remove the sender wires and the fuel lines.

I would think you could take some that fit a Kubota, Deere or NH like these and modify to fit your 1920. MT40279792 STABILIZER $70.04...

Welcome to TBN! Sounds like an ignition switch problem

Most likely the same bolt pattern, but the 4630 is a 3 cylinder and the 6600 is a 4 cylinder. Look at the parts book for differences in the mountings. They made mounts for both tractors for the 7410. https://www.messicks.com/nh/141796

That is a single cylinder on the LHS. The cylinder portion is 1-4. The rest is the actuator.

What do you want to know? It has a 4 cylinder Perkins. It later became a Fermec, then Terex. Not much info on industrial MF serial numbers out there.

You have water passages (oblong holes) on the other side of the bolt holes. Not sure why those holes you circled are blocked, but not to worry.

Welcome to TBN. That is a casting number for the block...raised letters. Early NAA models the serial number was on the left front of the engine block just below the head Later it was on the flat area of the bell housing just behind the starter.

I believe the only orings you will have are on each end. I don't have answer for your second question

If you have the implemrnt side of the PTO shaft, why not just get the tractor half shaft? Tube is rectangular, yes?

Welcome to TBN. I am assuming it is a 3 cylinder 4000, 4100. Here is a parts breakdown of the cylinder. Go to section 06, then 03D02 https://www.messicks.com/nh/138355

Welcome to TBN! What make and model tractor? Are the loader hydraulics separate with its own pump?

Is there a gearbox brand that you can see? Did you try: https://www.dnequipment.com/store/pc/viewbrands.asp OR https://www.brooksagparts.com/product-page/replacement-hardee-finish-mower-gearbox-code-15340-1-2-83-ratio

Welcome to TBN! Looks like a 35 series or TL. These spindle fit multiple models within the series.

Welcome to TBN! It's in the TC45 parts book under hydraulics under 2 spool remote deluxe joystick, but it's not illustrated.

Serial numbers? The prefix: 'B' Basildon, England 'C' Romeo, MI 'A' Antwerp, Belgium 'D' Canada 'Z' Mexico

Image of.....?

I’ve never heard of reboring a hydraulic cylinder. Honing yes. But really, if it is leaking internally and there is damage to the cylinder, you’ll will need to consider replacement.

Depends on what part of the country you are in, but maybe $150-200.

So when you lift the dipper up and neutralize the valve it drops? Most likely the cylinder is leaking. Cheapest, first place to look. Resealing should take care of it.

Also, unless they are bent, the chrome can be redone and you would still have the original cylinders without a lot of expense.

Well they lock in until you have pressure against them. If you had a cylinder on one of them and it bottomed out, it would kick out of the detent. The detent can be adjusted to be stiffer

The 2 lines off of that valve, inlet/outlet are just hanging and not plugged in? Yes, you could plumb through the existing remote and tie open to divert that flow through you valve, but there may be another way to plumb that valve into the system

Welcome to TBN! I don't follow why you wouldn't uncap the 4 section valve and use that instead of adding on more valves.

I don't mind. I had a Ford New Holland dealership and we worked on Massey Fergusons as well. Massey industrial sold to Fermec so we needed a parts manual as parts on the Fermec were different from the 50E. I can sell this parts manual for $50. plus shipping. As I say, it is a 600 manual

Welcome to TBN! I have a Fermec 600 book, but I believe this is the part #:3522092m1

Did you ever go ahead with a backhoe for your 445C? The loader valve does not have a power beyond, but a backhoe could be added with a little bit of plumbing depending on the backhoe you install.

Fred, Can you take a picture of that area where the hoses are hooking up? I think the one you're talking about hooks in at the side of the frame.

Glad to help and that you found it. Now let's hope you can get it to move too.

Here is the SM pages

Hmm, well that is what the parts book shows. I agree that it looks like the spool is stuck or the coils are both bad which is unlikely.

I attached both the parts drawings for the 764 backhoe hooked up to an A-Series and the C/D Series tractors. A little hard to follow, but with this and help from former TBN posters specter and 545D from an old post from 2011, the hydraulic flow goes from the pump to the backhoe and then to the...

That's what I was assuming too, but from what I've picked up from the parts diagrams for the backhoe, no it doesn't. There may also be another relief to prevent the pump from deadheading if the backhoe is not plugged in properly.

Those are actually socket head bolts requiring metric Allen wrench

Fred, That is just the loader hydraulic system. I'm working on what I think the system looks like with the backhoe. Do you have a book on the 764 backhoe that might show it? Or does someone here on the site have one? I am thinking that a quick coupler came off or separated (maybe not all the...

I sold a new tractor to a polo field with Trelleborg wide flotation tires. Great until you need to replace one that is ruined. For your tire setup that you came up with, you should be able to get away with the current rims for the front tire. May be a bit narrow, but may work. Try Unverfurth...

Perhaps the clutch switch is not showing the clutch depressed.

No special tools really. A pair of inside snap ring pliers to compress the retaining ring at the cylinder end. The tips need fit the ring holes. A good vise to hold the rod while you loosen and tighten the piston nut. A block of wood to set the rod on when taking the piston nut off so as to not...

Essentially a Shibaura S723 or S753 diesel engine

There is an oring on the head/distributor.

@thepumpguysc

What Erik said plus the chain is not going to do much at that angle. I would try to lift the back end out of the mud with the backhoe and try to drag it backwards with the loader bucket in curl (use a bungee to hold ot in curl) and the loader lift in float. Solve one problem at a time. Also...

Search for 1120, 1210, 1215, 1220, 1310. They all use the same head.

What is the backhoe on your 445C and how is it powered? Is it tied onto the tractor hydraulics or is it PTO driven

Fred, when you chained the backhoe to the loader and activated the backhoe, I assume the backhoe moved, was working. Did you move the loader lift valve at the same time you were trying to pick the loader up with the backhoe so that the loader cylinders could transfer oil out of the top of the...

This axle does not have shimmed trunnion bearings, but I am thinking that the problem is improper assembly of the hub. It could be that the shaft bearing carrier was/is not fastened in the axle tube by the set screw on top of the axle housing.

Fred, DON'T JUMP! There is no clutch adjustment, it's just a switch. When clutch is depressed, it shuts the controller off. If the pedal is out of adjustment, there is no connection to the transmission. Like I said, not sure what is going on other than the transmission is low on oil or the...

It looks like the nut has moved from the staked position and the space between the hub and axle is wider than normal. Is the hub loose now? As Harry stated, getting it tight is important, but also, getting the inside bearing seated all the way is critical.

Fred, I answered you Friday on another post about loader float from you: "Hi Fred, you should be able to push the joystick forward as if to lower the loader, beyond the lowering position into a detent. If you loader is up, push it forward and it will float down. If it doesn't, you either have...

I would say heat is the reason it isn’t coming off :). Agree, lots of penetrating fluid and put a puller on it tensioned while tapping on the shaft and gently on the hub.

One thing I would add in addition to getting the nut as tight as possible is installing the seal correctly. I have replaced this particular seal in a variety of ZF, Carraro and NH Axles over the years and have yet to have one leak. The seal is a cassette style and requires a special tool to...

Hi Fred, you should be able to push the joystick forward as if to lower the loader, beyond the lowering position into a detent. If you loader is up, push it forward and it will float down. If it doesn't, you either have broken parts or rust in the lift spool cap.

Coastal Tractor, Salinas works with a local fabricator to build. The original Ford 7610 Mudder Tractor was developed there too.

Did you get an answer? Engine is straightforward. Transmission and rear end are pipe plugs underneath.

Looks right.

Skiploaders (545A/C/Ds) are made for dirt moving, construction, etc. Extremely good at doing that type of work and built low profile to be able to grade better. When you move to other Ford tractors, your other options are tractor backhoes or ag tractors. Ag tractors are built very strong, but...

The "weighted contraption" spins with the shaft. The "tombstone" meshes into the sleeve on 2 grooves. The sleeve is stationary. The picture shows 2 grooves at the end and that is where the "tombstone" catches it, but the picture shows the "tombstone" in the wrong place. It should be at the end.

The transmission oil is independent of the rear end oil and the hydraulic system. The transmission filter is the one on the LH side of the transmission.

Here is an inquiry similar to yours: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/howard-slip-clutch-springs.413119/ Howard slip clutch springs

The governor plate slips over the shaft and pushes on the governor ring. See illustration. Other than that, it sounds like the spring came off of the metering valve or it is in the wrong hole

Welcome to TBN! Try: https://southern-global.com/shop/engine-parts/fuel-system/injector-assembly-rebuilt/

No other place for fuel to enter the crankcase, but through the injection pump

What model Howard is ot?

If age versus function is the issue, I pick function in this case. You can always keep the Summit valve as a backup, but the Ford valve is pretty nice, plus it is a joystick which speeds usability.

When did you change the transmission filter last. Also, there is an inlet screen on this transmission that is supposed to be cleaned, but hardly anyone does. I'm thinking that it might be a flow issue. It would affect both directions though

I found this, but not sure this is yours: B Clutch cal too low − RPM dropped too soon, clutch pressure is not being controlled properly or something else caused RPM to drop

Welcome to TBN, from California

Strange. Could be the F/R shifter, but again acts like heat related. As LouNY asked, what kind of oil and what condition is it in? Could be the reverse solenoid or valve giving you fits.

Most likely the brake piston in the rear end is leaking into the axle as you have stated there are no external leaks. You could measure the oil on the dipstick for the rear end/hydraulics, but you have pretty much ruled out anything else.

I have much experience with them as well, but kingpins are the lesser problem with them. That axle without the reversing box is used in a variety of models of Fords and other manufacturers. Rear axle puvot is the Achilles Heal on the skiploaders with that reversing box.

When the conditions are too muddy, but the vegetables need to be harvested

?? The expensive repair on a 3,4 or 545A/C/D front end is when the rear axle pivot is not greased. The thin oring gets dirt in it and tears allowing the front axle oil to leak out. The reversing gearbox gears are hard to get and $$$, that is if you haven't lost the ring and pinion too. Don't...

Easiest, cheapest way would be to remove the Westendorf valve and put quick coupler tips on loader hoses. This would utilize the NH joystick valve. If hoses aren't long enough, make new hoses.

Ford put the reversing gearbox on the front axle to get that lower profile, otherwise you could run more like a backhoe profile or Ag tractor profile. Not many ways to go, but possibly a 28" rear would work.

Have been able to narrow down your problem?

Welcome to TBN! Sorry no one answered you. Did you find it or do you still need help?

Yes, you will get bubbles at the hard line if you have air. BTW. I was a dealer and I have a 1910 myself and I have not had problems bleeding it. One thing you should do is fill the tank at least 3/4 full

If you had a New Holland or Case dealer nearby, they are Small, SBA052100160 metric oring (SIZE (DASH) NUMBER P16 INSIDE DIAMETER 15.8 +/-0.20 SECTION DIAMETER 2.4 +/-0.09 LINEAR DIMENSION UNITS MM O-RING MATERIAL: SYNTHETIC RUBBER NBR OR EQUIVALENT(MINERAL OIL RESISTANCE, SPRING...

Welcome to TBN! It shoul be Napa FIL 3048. There is an oring on the stem of the filter and one on the bowl that should be replaced, but may get by without replacing.

To get a float valve and also give you some versatility, you would be best to install a hydraulic diverter block and an external spool valve(s) with a float...

Sounded like air getting in somewhere until the end of your story. Take an injector out, attach to a fuel line and see if you get a decent spray pattern out of it. Careful you don't have any spark source or open flame around when you do this and keep your hand away from the nozzle.

Do these kits have a float position?

It appears they both are the same 17 tooth gear making it 1:1 ratio. This is listed as a set, but price seems too cheap. Call Messicks to verify: 717-367-1319 6122BH GEAR MINTER SET $188.72

Welcome to TBN! Do you only have one hydaulic pump on your tractor? Have you already looked at the kits online?

Using the original idler pulley mounted on an adjustable arm, I don't see why it wouldn't, but the original swing arm tensioner with a spring would be pretty easy to fabricate

It is 1:4 increaser for 540 pto. If you went to the manufacturer of the gearbox, it would be less money for parts. Dana make increasers in many ratios, but if I were going to replace the box as a whole, I would go with a 1000 rpm pto 1:2 ratio.

As a percentage of the total lift of that loader, that is quite a lot, but not my tractor

Yes they are. As MT Green said, Alexander Tractor. Also try Gulf South Equipment Sales Parts for Tractors & Heavy Machinery or Salvage Tractors Archives

There is no brake. Several sources in the US, but not much help for you. Korea or Japanese market would be closer, https://www.finaldrivemotors.com/Kobelco-SK025-Final-Drive-Motor-p/sk025kob.htm

Resealing a cylinder isn't difficult. The ring you are talking about is for the piston. Generally, you don't need to replace it as you will see when you take it apart. The leaks occur through the gland and the rod. The hardest part about any cylinder reseal is removing the piston retaining nut...

You might ask this at the Heavy Equipment Forum. Could possibly be that if you get an answer, you will need a Case dealer mechanic with a laptop to clear the code.

Ahh, now makes sense: https://www.buckeyebid.com/Inventory/?/listing/auction-results/221538247/world-agritech-corp-im500-rotary-mowers-hay-and-forage-equipment?dlr=1&accountcrmid=13792893

The electric pump should be fine. As far as leaving the old pump in place, it won't hurt.

The increaser should have a tag as to make and model. Parts from Alamo probably pricey. Probably easier/cheaper replacing the unit. Is it 1000 rpm or 540 rpm input. If the ratio isn't listed on the gearbox, measure the diameter of the gears to figure out the ratio.

It is an electrical shifter buy the heating up and stopping is baffling. Power comes from the fuse block to the foot switch/clutch and the shifter and loader buttons, then to the controller module mounted I believe under the steering column. If power is disrupted along that line, such as...

Welcome to TBN. When it does this, it won't even try to move? If you lift the back end off of the ground and engage the shuttle, do the wheels move or try?

No, it won't

Not sure who made it. Looks like a letter in front of 500 to me. Maybe an M. Turn it over and see if there are any numbers on the blades

Pressures vary between different models due to the axle rating of that particular tractor. Raising the pressure 50 psi probably won't do any harm, but 225 psi, providing you have a very accurate gauge, will break something or possibly kill you. Why the need to increase the pressure?

That is true, but let's hope the 10w40 is diesel rated

Glad you found one, but commercial backhoes used linchpin for years

Yes, that is fine. By the way, welcome to TBN! Have fun with your 4500. Make sure you grease the hydraulic pump driveshaft under the radiator and the 2 zerks for the steering mechanism

Being that it is very old, anything above 30wt is spoiling it. A good quality hyd/trans oil is fine for everything else

E Series II. Series 1 had a 1 speed gearbox only.

Can't you just use a linch pin? Found on on Ebay. Look up Branson13474 Retainer pin

I believe that is a model E. I will look at my books tomorrow. Missing the steel gauge wheel

It could be a 50E, I don't remember

I believe it was a Massey 50H before being rebranded as a Fermec. Parts get very interesting sometimes as the crossover is blurry.

Welcome to TBN! Was it working, then stopped? Does oil come out of that hole in the priority valve?

Shuttle pump, seal and disc kit

Quite possible a pinhole. I know you put a new oring on the pump, but did you grease the tube and make sure it is pushed in all the way? Without the clamp, there is nothing to hold it in place.

Great to hear. As a service manager, the dumb question has to be asked as sometimes it is not even suspected!

Southern Global may buy the drivetrain

Yes, he may want to part out and it is old, not popular. The block may be bondoed if he wanted to rebuild. Probably good money into bad, but.....

It is a Toyosha MS142 diesel https://southern-global.com/shop/?category=277&wpce_search=14779&post_type=product https://southern-global.com/shop/engine-parts/engine-kit/engine-kit-ek-ms142/

Welcome to TBN! Did the family member change the transmission filter/oil? Oil level in transmission correct?

Agree that Flailmaster is a better buy for parts they carry. I have a 917 parts machine that may have some parts that you are missing.

Is your oil level in the rear end correct? What dies the oil look like? The transmission oil is separate from the rear end/hydraulic oil.

Welcome to TBN. Not necessarily. The newer injectors still have the same setup inside, just lower profile and are adjustable through the leakoff hole. What part number did you get?

The F/R piston seals are old and stiff allowing oil to slip by until the oil warms up. You can get various shuttle rebuild or seal kits. You have the after 1981 version if it is a 555B and the following should be correct even though it indicates it is for earlier models...

You're right. I was thinking of not an automatic and not a hydro. That's a great video. The lower gears were great for what now you need a creeper box in addition to the main box.

The SOS had 10 forward, 2 reverse with slight overlap from gear to gear. Not a power shift or automatic, but you could shift it without clutching. Most people that don’t like them is due to lack of or incorrect adjustments of the bands. In the Salinas Valley, older units kept going as...

It is an early 545; 78-85? How did you check the pressure on the pump, by dead heading it? I'm pretty sure, I'll check on this, that the pressure on the pump is supposed to be about 2100 psi and would explain that if your pressure reading is on the pump itself, your pump either is worn out or...

They plastic and they are to identify which hoses go to which couplers when you go to plug the hoses back into the respective couplers. I don't have the oring size offhand, but it is a hardness of duro 90, meaning it is stiff. If it is a 1/2" coupler, you can order these online vp2211n055290

Maybe referring to #44, Seat Switch Timer, which I would figure out how to eliminate.

That is not an oring. That spiral ring is the I.D. ring to match the coupler to the tip There are four colors

Take a look at these TBN posts: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/upgrading-ignition-switch-on-new-holland-tc33d.379467/

Got it. I was thinking I found an Australian sourced plug. Good luck replacing yours.

On the other hand, if you have a 14' mower, it is better to have the 1000 rpm option, rather than 540

No it's not. I am referring to why you should run at 1000 rpm vs 540 rpm. That is a situation for 540 rpm as, you are exactly right, it is not a load for a 100 hp tractor.

How about this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401706136181

The idea of 1000 rpm PTO is to run more efficiently. If you have the 1000 rpm geared gearbox on the implement, then use the 1000 rpm PTO, but this is not always something that is available on the implement. Adapting 1000 to 540 is not the best thing to do as you would run the engine at the lower...

Welcome to TBN. Hard to diagnose without knowing pressure. Is oil circulating (is the gear engaged on the shaft)? Pressure relief adjusted too low/stuck? Rebuilding meaning installing a seal kit, but how much wear on the pump was there or why did you reseal? Was it working before?

Ray, the PTO speed is changed by removing the existing shaft and installing the needed shaft. Parts picture of each attached here. There should be a snap ring that takes a normal pair of pliers to remove, then pull the shaft out. You will lose little or no oil when you do this. Install the...

Porous block refers to cavitation in the block which could result in a pinhole in the cylinder wall. This is not unique to Ford and can be prevented with good quality water and coolant with an SCA additive or with a premix of the same additives. Regarding the high range seal, he is referring to...

Also, take the cap off of the lift pump and check for crud and blockages in the incoming and outgoing lines at the lift pump

Keep going down the line. Check the inlet orifice in the filter head. Replace the filter. Blow your lines out. Flow at the injection pump, activating the lift pump, should produce a stream out of the line

Looks like you have a 735 Loader on your tractor. Is your filter like this in the pictures?

Guys, that filter in the tank, is for the loader/backhoe hydraulics. It has absolutely nothing to do with the transmission. The transmission filter is hanging on the side of the transmission.

@audieo, this thread got long. I just went back to the beginning and saw that you checked the fuse. Being the harness has been riddled by rodents. I would next check the dump circuit coming from the range shifter and the loader lever for a short that is energizing the transmission dump solenoid...

I misspoke, this transmission is not computer controlled, but is completely electrically controlled. Fuse F4/A would be a place to start

Here are the transmission harness and F/R solenoids

On the contrary, the C Series in 1988 had a simple transmission computer. The E series was introduced in 1996 and the transmission is more computer controlled.

I have to ask the stupid question, did you check your fuses?

That's the loader valve. Here is a diagram showing the shuttle valve, on top of the transmission. I believe access is through vab floor panel.

Milton Shockit Crowfoot

Interesting for fittings that won't break loose easily, which is the case on older units. This and offset wrenches together would be the ticket!

A hydraulic shop or aftermarket hoses will be cheapest way to go. The 755 backhoe didn't come with 2 lever in North America, but I have a 2 lever setup off of a newer backhoe that you might be able to make work. DM me if you are interested. Ted

Could you take a picture of your PTO or what your concern is regarding replacing the seal? The parts book is pretty vague.

I was trying to get Sjanderson470 to answer whether he’s had 2 reverse, 1 hi, 1 low like yours, or 2 hi, 2 low like the decal shows. His model code suggests the prior (8x2) while the decal on the dash suggests the latter (6x4). Yours is a nice machine and the Rustoleom looks good!

You can make a fusible link with the wire shown in the Napa picture. Most likely the original is 14 ga.

Complete oring kit: Ford 4000 Hydraulic Valve O-Ring Kit - DHPN485A

NO, NO, NO!

Ford, Ford New Holland and New Holland buckets from 1983- current will fit. Prior to the 555, the 4500 and 550 backhoe had smaller pins. As DJ54 said though, a variety of stuff in dealer lots and salvage yards. 12" buckets are very hard to find used though as they are in highest demand.

Welcome to TBN! Since your description is vague and we have no pictures, one can only assume you mean one like #13 in picture. There are orings that seal this. This particular one is on a 4000, but it is the same on 3 and 4 cylinder Fords, 1965-2000. Go to: New Holland 4000 - SERIES - 3 CYL...

Welcome to TBN! Unstick the pumps with PB Blaster or similar. Tap the the rack until it is in position to remove pumps. Do you have any other choice?

Ditto to what Harry said. Many times the Allen bolts do not come easy. The only reason I would remove is the inability to get to the cylinder easily. Honing should not be necessary.

If you're talking about the center mount cylinder and want to reseal, just unscrew the tierods, remove the gland locking wires and remove the glands, extract the rod/piston and reseal.

Depends on who had/has it. If it is for contract work, years. If for home use, decades. Add plates to sides to restore and you will be fine for a decade or so, again, depending on how much dirt you decide to move

Welcome to TBN! On the RH ledge of the bell housing is a flat ledge behind the starter that has 3 stampings. The date code will be 4F16B where: 4=year F= Month A-M, but not I to indicate A=Jan, B=Feb, etc. 16=Day B=Shift So if yours starts with 4, it is an 84

Not difficult at all. The timing gear that the injection pump bolts up only one way, so the major timing will be correct. When you bolt the pump to the timing cover, you will line up the scribed mark on the pump ear with the 0 deg mark on the cover. If no mark on the cover, leave the pump...

Welcome to TBN! It is impossible to help you as we do not know what you are working on. Make and model of the tractor will get you a good response.

So you have one or two reverse gears?

It may not have many hours, but the age would cause the seals to dry out. To verify my theory, I would first put a gauge on the clutches and system overall to determine what is going on.

Feb 20, 1967 build, according to that number. The last letter is probably a C which would be afternoon or evening shift. BUT, the number next to the serial number, 7F19 would say it is a May 19, 1967 build. Either way, it is a 1967 model. What doesn't make sense is according to the model code...

How many hours on the tractor? It's been years since I've seen the inside of one. I may have a service manual on it. I'll let you know.

That is the loader model, a 740, which is pretty common

Those are casting numbers. The model code, date code and serial numbers are "stamped" into the ledge on the right side of the bell housing top behind the starter. Also on the hood on a foil like label, but probably gone or illegible by now.

That's what I was thinking. It would explain why the clutch will not disengage. The cross shaft "rotates back and forth a bit". How much?

6x4 w/Independent PTO, should be the following kit: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-4500_Clutch-Kit-11-Inch-IPTO_11126113.html If you had the date code, ie: 4F14B, found on the RH ledge of the bell housing behind the starter, this will help.

Welcome to TBN! When you push it in to that point, can you feel anything through the clutch pedal like the TO bearing has pushed through the fingers on the PP or perhaps onto the PP fingers themselves?

Welcome to TBN! The clutch seals are probably getting old and causing the clutch to not engage until the oil warms up. My old (1978) 550 will crawl in low gear when it is cold and within a minute or so, it runs fine.

When you say the tap was blocked and you know the screen is missing, I assume you cleared the gunk from the tank? Did you clear the line to the filter? Have you checked the inlet orifice on the filter head? Take the fuel line off of the injection pump supply and see what kind of flow you...

Where?

What make/model alternator?

My wife and I were just talking about him as a country singer showman. Not many left. Now, one less. Rest in peace, Toby Keith

Definitely missing the friction washer. Look up a throttle friction washer for a Ford or MF like this...

Welcome to TBN. Did you pull the shutoff solenoid to see if you might have a clog at the shutoff plunger? Strange that you have fuel at the injectors, but how much?

Knowing Gavin Nuisance, he probably will require illegal alien labor at time and a half

The following is from a European supplier with some info on the heads of turboed E3CD engines. https://shop4trac.com/en/iseki-3-cylinder-problems-where-can-i-find-the-tightening-torques-of-e3112-e3cd-e3cf/

Weavers Tractor https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/massey-ferguson/iseki-e3cd-e3cf-top-gasket-kit-w-valve-seals

The relief is actually still available, about $620. from Deere. It is a Husco valve and I believe Ford used similar. I believe Deere used it on 310, 410E, which a salvage yard would have. You got it fixed nevertheless and this is a moot point now, but just wanted to add 2 cents to it.

Probably in the rear end behind the seat

Nothing worse than not knowing where an odd noise is coming from!

That would be the simplest way that I can see.

Those look like Weather Pack connectors. Pretty common anymore. https://www.customconnectorkits.com/product-listing/weather-pack-connectors

Strange "squeak". Sounds more like a plastic squeak, but can't define. Does it occur the same way every time as in the video? Could jack up all four tires off of the ground and try again. In either 2 or 4wd, the driveshaft turns in the cover from the dropbox at mid-tractor

Sounds like it is probably the 4WD driveshaft rubbing on the shield.

Welcome to TBN. A video would be helpful. Is the squeak coming from a specific area?

May need to offset the shaft seal from where it previously was riding or use a Speedo-sleeve

For the OPs question, they are keyed into place, but agree, a square or hex hole is the way to go.

But great digging dinosaurs. Designed to trench by using the dipper to dig rather than the bucket to scoop like an ice cream scoop.

Sitting looking at the backhoe, left to right. #1 Dipper/curl - push goes out, pull curls in #2 Boom - push goes down, pull comes up #3 Bucket - push dumps, pull digs or curls up #4 Swing - push goes left, pull comes right Outside levers are the stabilizers/outriggers

Going Case to 4 lever or vice versa, you have to cross your hands as everything is backward depending on your previous experience.

4 lever control takes practice, but once you get it, it works well.

Gasgacinch works well to hold gaskets, thermostats in place Gasgacinch - Gasket Sealer Products. Made in the USA

Welcome to TBN. The shaft in the flywheel is your PTO shaft and it has galled or a bearing is binding to the transmission input shaft, so your thoughts are correct, but now you are going to need to get into the transmission. Good luck, not an easy tractor to work on!

10 hours, conservative? 6.6 mm plug is close to 1/4".

The rod could be replated. Allen Machine in Banning, CA does a very reasonably priced job. Something like that is probably $75. Is it not available? What model?

Looking at that parts book (pics here) and same block on other models, it's likely a plug listed, #6 - 10.4mm or #7 - 6.6mm. Another model show an 1/8" npt plug closer to where you are showing, although you indicated it doesn't seem to be threaded. Is the hydraulic pump tucked behind a frame...