Preferred method to pull trailer behind tractor?

[CH4Ohio]

They also make a regular tandem-axle semi-trailer version of this, which would obviously take less brain power to reverse into tight quarters, but wouldn't be stable when loaded with a few thousand pounds of firewood and not attached to a tractor. Likewise, when moving dirt or mulch, I can disconnect this wagon from the tractor, and use my FEL to load the wagon, with zero concern for it tipping on me.

Oh, and for those talking about using your tractor's drawbar to move wagons... good luck doing that with this rig! When backing an articulated wagon like this, you really need the hitch to be far aft of the rear axle of the tractor, in order to get sufficient swing on the drawbar to steer the thing.

Obviously, there's two steering reversals happening, when you have articulated steering on a wagon, versus a regular semi-trailer. Most people think it's impossible to back these trailers into any tight space, but you can see I do it every 2 - 3 weeks thru or entire heating season, without too much trouble. It does take practice, but it's do-able with the same finesse and accuracy of a regular trailer, by the time you've done it a few hundred times.

I've seen dump trailers at Rural King in the $3-4 thousand range. But theirs have the tandem-axle setup that you mention. Would be much easier to back up -- as you mention. But I like the setup on yours with the wheels spread apart and steerable on front because of the stability. Yours is setup like a farm wagon as opposed to a trailer.

 

[tjandrews]

I have a 5x8 trailer and this got me thinking, I'll probably just get this & put a ball on it.View attachment 5709791

I bought one of those at a garage sale last spring for $1. Fastened a ball to it and used it once with a small trailer. Will never use it again that way. Not terrible going forward if paying attention, but almost impossible to back up accurately because of sway, even with limiters.

 

[WinterDeere]

I've seen dump trailers at Rural King in the $3-4 thousand range. But theirs have the tandem-axle setup that you mention.

You got me curious, so I went and checked current pricing. It's $2200 today, which I think isn't much more than I paid... I seem to remember it was about $2k ten years ago. They also have the tandem axle version of the same:



They also have lighter 1-ton variants... but why?

Would be much easier to back up -- as you mention. But I like the setup on yours with the wheels spread apart and steerable on front because of the stability. Yours is setup like a farm wagon as opposed to a trailer.

I have to admit, after more than ten years and many hundreds of uses of the thing, I've actually grown to prefer backing this trailer over the regular type, when I need to jacknife it into a tight spot like the porch I photo'd above. My tractor ROPS would never fit under the porch, and the extra point of articulation on this wagon allows me to get the wagon farther under cover, with the tractor still away from the porch.

I couldn't do a slalom course in high speed in reverse with this thing, the way I could easily do with a regular boat trailer or utility trailer, after so many decades of pulling those. But with a little extra thought and practice, backing these little farm wagons up really isn't all that difficult.

 

[Hay Dude]

I bought a ball from e-trailer with a really high rating and an extra long threaded shank. I pull directly from the drawbar.

 

[CH4Ohio]

You got me curious, so I went and checked current pricing. It's $2200 today, which I think isn't much more than I paid... I seem to remember it was about $2k ten years ago. They also have the tandem axle version of the same:

View attachment 5712398

They also have lighter 1-ton variants... but why?


I have to admit, after more than ten years and many hundreds of uses of the thing, I've actually grown to prefer backing this trailer over the regular type, when I need to jacknife it into a tight spot like the porch I photo'd above. My tractor ROPS would never fit under the porch, and the extra point of articulation on this wagon allows me to get the wagon farther under cover, with the tractor still away from the porch.

I couldn't do a slalom course in high speed in reverse with this thing, the way I could easily do with a regular boat trailer or utility trailer, after so many decades of pulling those. But with a little extra thought and practice, backing these little farm wagons up really isn't all that difficult.

Wow! That's cheaper than what I expected. I guess by the time you got the hydraulics on it you'd be pushing $3K.

I was moving a hay wagon gear around yesterday changing tires and greasing things up. It's the same principle as backing your Little Red Wagon when you were a kid -- and remember how awkward those were ??? That's why I put the hitch on top of my FEL bucket. Instead of backing the tractor, you can drive forward and push the wagon backward. When trying to back several wagons into a center aisle in a barn, "pushing" them in instead of "backing" them in is MUCH easier.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Wow! That's cheaper than what I expected. I guess by the time you got the hydraulics on it you'd be pushing $3K.

I was moving a hay wagon gear around yesterday changing tires and greasing things up. It's the same principle as backing your Little Red Wagon when you were a kid -- and remember how awkward those were ??? That's why I put the hitch on top of my FEL bucket. Instead of backing the tractor, you can drive forward and push the wagon backward. When trying to back several wagons into a center aisle in a barn, "pushing" them in instead of "backing" them in is MUCH easier.

To clarify the above -- I don't mean to suggest that we back several wagons AT THE SAME TIME. Only backing one at a time. (Don't need to go down that imaginary rabbit hole again . . . )

 

[denchen]

This is my set up. I made the 'A' frame using scaffold pole. The tractor is only light and I use a small double axle car trailer to collect wood. The draught arm pins were bought off Ebay, All works well.

 

[HAR]

View attachment 5710129

I only use the receiver. Switch the open hole for a hitch ball as needed. Not for towing at speed or down the road. But great for wagons and trailers around the place. Be sure you have positive tongue weight and keep it low when needed and use common sense.

I have something similar to this unit that I use to move trailers and other things around the property, mostly because it is easy and convenient, but when towing, I always use the drawbar, as that is what it is designed for. As others have pointed out, you do not want the trailer tongue to rise up when transporting a load, and that will happen if attached to the 3PH.

Edit: I should have pointed out, when I said move things around the property, it is just very slow rearranging.

 

[Dennis59]

I have a fairly heavy-duty 5'x8' utility trailer that I am sure I am going to want to pull behind my tractor from time to time. Have used it a lot for hauling cut/split firewood behind the truck.

What's your preferred method? Favorite 3pt hitch receiver? Something I am probably not even thinking about?

I use an adaptor that slides over the tractor hitch that has a ball on it. That way it is quick to take the ball on and off the tractor. The main issue with using the 3 point is that if the trailer hitch is higher then the center line of the tractors rear wheels and you go up a hill with a heavy trailer you can flip the tractor.

 

[WinterDeere]

Wow! That's cheaper than what I expected. I guess by the time you got the hydraulics on it you'd be pushing $3K.

Yeah, I'm surprised their price hasn't gone up more, with everything else. I'd guess you could have the full dump kit made up around $2700 - $2800, depending on how much you spend on hydraulics. Those tie rod cylinders and log splitter SCV's are pretty cheap, thru places like Surplus Center, and I have my hydraulic hoses made custom at a local shop for reasonable prices.

I put the hitch on top of my FEL bucket. Instead of backing the tractor, you can drive forward and push the wagon backward.

I did the same, when I first got this wagon. You're right, it's definitely easier going forward, at least when the wagon is light or empty.

But pushing uphill and making sharp turns in snow or frozen grass, the tractor tends to slide around a lot when trying to push from the loader bucket. Ultimately, I just learned how to back them up, and find it works much better for my case of a heavy wagon going up a slight hill.

 

[Rob REECE]

I have a fairly heavy-duty 5'x8' utility trailer that I am sure I am going to want to pull behind my tractor from time to time. Have used it a lot for hauling cut/split firewood behind the truck.

What's your preferred method? Favorite 3pt hitch receiver? Something I am probably not even thinking about?

Definitely a three point hitch. I have one and it works great.

 

[Bill601]

One of these:
View attachment 5709772

Wish I could rent one of those. I need one about twice a year, tops.

 

[chim]

For moving the small utility trailer and generator around to mow, I use a ball that's mounted on the RFM. It's perfect for backing up and using the 3PH to raise and lower the RFM and relocate the stuff to a spot that has been mowed. It is NOT for moving anything serious.

For the loaded trailer, etc it is always one of the fixed mounts. I did have a mount for the 3PH that I wasn't at all happy with because it could ride up. On the rear of both tractors there's the beefy drawbar. On the Kubbota I added a receiver to the front frame and the FEL. Sometimes they can come in handy just to hold things to work on them.

 

[Joe Batt]

I have a 5x8 trailer and this got me thinking, I'll probably just get this & put a ball on it.

That doesn't work, because it rotates and when turning, the ball doesn't extend behind the bar, so it is rough on the trailer hitch. I have one of those with a triangle welded on top to connect to all 3 points. In retrospect I should have bought a real 3 pt receiver and wouldn't have to fix my trailers as often.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I ABSOLUTELY try to use the drawbar as much as possible,

especially on a smaller tractor.

SR

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yours is setup like a farm wagon as opposed to a trailer.

Technically, WinterDeere's is a trailer. Unlike the far more common semi trailers.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Technically, WinterDeere's is a trailer. Unlike the far more common semi trailers.

You may be right. I think of a "wagon" as carrying its own weight, as opposed to a "trailer" putting weight on the hitch. You don't need a jack on a "wagon" -- can just pull the pin and walk away.

Course there are dozens of variations.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Little Red Trailer?

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Be careful, the bar will rotate.
I have this, three point and direct connection draw bar and draw bar is the safest option by far.
Be careful View attachment 5712380

I've known lots of farmers in my day. Never ever have I heard one say "be careful". Ever...about anything.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I seem to remember a multi-page "discussion" about the "trailer vs wagon" terminology a while back. I think it mainly comes down to context.

When you're out baling hay, and you send someone for another "wagon", and they show up with a "trailer" -- it's a problem.

Or if you actually want them to bring a "trailer", bringing a hay wagon doesn't work either. There's a difference.

Probably pays to discuss and settle on the "approved terminology" during the pre-job briefing.