Tractor Sizing Tractor for 1.2 acres

[termilvr]

Looking to get a tractor witha FEL for doing basic chores around the house. I have an old garden tractor that would stay dedicated asa mower.

Tasks:
-Move mulch, dirt, gravel for gardens and other landscape activities.
-Move Snow on 100ft driveway
-Move brush and downed trees from edge of the property (forest lined)
-Build out garden beds for flowers and vegetables -Level ground for large fire/burn pit, and playground
-tree planting

Impliments:
-Loader w/bucket
-Pallet Forks
-Snow Pusher
-Grapple
-Stump Bucket
-Sub Soiler
I have tested out both the 1025r and B2601. The 1025r seem like plenty for my needs. The B2601 is the one step up in case my needs were to ever grow but likely overkill right now. Thoughts? Should stick with 1025r or step up to the B2601? always read people say go bigger than you think you need.

 

[Yander]

Welcome. B2601 is a much more capable tractor. I think 1025R is over priced.

 

[airbiscuit]

I'm generally not a fan of Sub-Compact Tractors, but for your acreage and tasks, it would be perfect. Where are you located? Here in WI, the Farm & Fleet stores carry Bobcat. Here are some prices for comparison ...

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[termilvr]

I'm generally not a fan of Sub-Compact Tractors, but for your acreage and tasks, it would be perfect. Where are you located? Here in WI, the Farm & Fleet stores carry Bobcat. Here are some prices for comparison ...
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I am located in SE WI about 35 min outside of Milwaukee. I did look at Kioti as well but the prices seemed to have jumped and are on par with Kubota.

 

[termilvr]

For added context, JD dealer is 10 min down the road, Kubota is 40.

 

[airbiscuit]

There's a Bobcat dealer in Kenosha. What town are you in?

 

[rScotty]

For added context, JD dealer is 10 min down the road, Kubota is 40

You shouldn't have to go to the dealer unless you just want to. Tractors rarely need repairs , espeically new ones.

Our Kubota has needed dealer service once in 20 years. When a hydraulic cylinder broke, all it took was a phone call and the dealer sent their mobile service truck out to do the work at our place.

Like a lot of owners, we buy routine maintenance items like hoses, control cables, oils, and filters online.

 

[rScotty]

Looking to get a tractor witha FEL for doing basic chores around the house. I have an old garden tractor that would stay dedicated asa mower.

Thoughts? Should stick with 1025r or step up to the B2601? always read people say go bigger than you think you need.

If you stay with the sub-compacts, take a look at the Kubota BX23 and the Massey Ferguson 1700 series. Both those are similar to the 1025r, and all three subcompacts are popular for equally good reasons.

Whether or not to step up to the B series (Kubota) has a lot to do with your property. If your land is sloping or has deep mud or lots of high grass...or has rocks and downed tree limbs... then the larger tractor offers more ground clearance & has better underneath protection.

The bigger size also has a wider wheelbase for better stability, more lift to the loader, and more gears to match the work. Add all those things up, and they sound like huge differences, but although those are real benefits, each one is really only slightly more than the subcompact comes with. And the larger tractor does cost more.

If your property is already landscaped and you mostly want to maintain it plus do some improvements - then the subcompact can certainly do that.

Or do what I did. Being a b ig guy with bigger feet, I sat on several different models at the dealer. Then went with the one that fit best, was easy to get on and off, had a decent seat, and let me turn around to see behind without straining my back too much. Sometimes it's the small things that matter the most.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I believe the Sub-Compact Utility Tractor (SCUT) will do all you want!

I do have a 2021 Massey Ferguson GC 1725 MB (the"B" designates a backhoe) it's an AWESOME little tractor!

Massey Ferguson has changed the model numbering system though they are now a GC1.__ the 23 or 25 is the basic HP and the 25 is a more deluxe version, over the more basic 23 ...

John Deere also has a similar new numbering system ... They also have the more basic economy model called the 1E 23 with a slightly smaller engine.

There 1M25 is the new 1025R ... The 1R25 is the new 2025R, which is closer in size to the Kubota B2601

One of the bigger challenges of my sized SCUT is the tiny tires, (18" front, 26" rear) since there is no suspension on these, the little tires make for a rather rough ride in bumpy ground, they also only provide about 6' of ground clearance ... The BX has those little tires, the B is roughly 23" and 32" ... But that means a bigger step to climb on too ...

The Kubota BX line is very slightly smaller foot print than the Massey and JD ...

One thing to consider is what do you want to lift with the forks? And to recognize that the brochure numbers probably don't mean what you might think ... The "pins" is a way most all loaders are "measured" it does not include the weight of the bucket/forks/grapple in that number ... The purple arrow is the "pin"! Notice that the load of logs I have on below starts quite a bit forward of that!

Also be aware that the closer the load/weight is to the pins, the actual weight you can lift ...

This is as high as I can lift the forks, pallet and 15 bags of wood heating pellets ...

Notice that by stacking the bags closer to the "pins" I can now carry an extra bag!

Also notice that in all three of my pictures that I have some weight on the back on the 3pt hitch, this is critical to safe and effective front end loader (fel) use ... Read ... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/how-much-ballast-do-you-need.659531/

 

[Runner]

A few things to consider:

You mentioned pushing snow with the machine. Having split brakes is very helpful when actually "pushing" snow with either the bucket or blade (or a snow pusher) for steering. Therefore, you might want to take note if any of the machines you are looking at have split brakes. A differential lock is also helpful.

Also, in general, look closely at what the snow-handling options are for the machine you are looking at. What attachments are available (bucket, front blade, rear blade, pusher, blower, etc.) and how easy are they to attach/detach.

If you get very much snow, and especially if you have hills, you will be much happier with the performance if the tractor has tires chains at least on the rear wheels. You will also need extra weight, either wheel weights or filled tires (or both) and will need rear counterweight (weight box) for doing loader work.

I have found that rear-mounted attachments are easier to mount/dismount from the machine. This becomes an issue with things like snow blowers, blades and mowers which can be mounted front, middle (for mowers) or rear on the tractor. For instance, if you need your loader all winter for whatever, but also need something to handle snow, but you have to remove the loader to mount the blade or blower, this can be a pain. However, you can put blowers and blades on the rear of the machine and keep the loader on all the time.

Whatever you decide on, have fun!