Shop Interior Wall Panel choices

[GrandpaSmurf825]

My shop is 30x53x14 post frame construction. The solution I went with was 3/4" OSB laid on it's side all around the base of the walls. Above that is white metal the same as you would use on the exterior and then on the ceiling. OSB at the base because it will stand up to inadvertent bumps etc. better than metal. The ceiling is also lined with the white metal. The beauty of the metal is the wall sections were cut to length so they went up fast. The ceiling pieces were rolled and cut to 30' lengths and also went up quickly. There are nailers every 4' from truss to truss so the ceiling metal could be ran across the span easily. Then I blew in fiberglass insulation 15"-18" deep in the ceiling. The walls are 5-1/2" kraft faced fiberglass bats. The electrical is ran in conduit around the perimeter. The lighting is high bay LED lighting. I have radiant floor heat and two 18,000 BTU mini splits for summer time air conditioning.

You have lot's of options obviously. My daughter just built a barndominium and dry walled everything but the great room ceiling, She chose tongue and groove car siding for it. She also went with radiant floor heat and put in duct work for and air handler/mini split setup.

 

[Otto Syracuse]

we outfitted a nice workshop in a hotel with plywood covered in white Fiberglass Reinforced Panels. You can mount anything you need anywhere into the plywood, and the FRP is easy to clean, rodent proof, and it reflects light well.

 

[not2old]

I'm planning on 5/8 fireguard drywall, mostly for fire resistance, partly to smooze the insurance people.

 

[turbo36]

That minisplit handles that?

There are three mini splits, 2 on one wall and one on the other. Until the temperature gets above 85° outside, one will handle the cooling load.

 

[dieselscout80]

There are three mini splits, 2 on one wall and one on the other. Until the temperature gets above 85° outside, one will handle the cooling load.

What size are your mini split?

Are they 220 volts?

 

[Fxfymn413]

I used T 1-11 OSB as the interior finish in my shop. I like the idea that I can remove the panels to add wiring etc. and it did not need finishing as it came pre-painted. There is no second floor so using a combustible interior finish was OK. Without taping etc. it was less expensive than drywall.

You will need to use fire rated 5/8 Type X for your ceiling since there is living space above. I have had to be the bearer of bad news when we rejected a finished ceiling that was done with regular 1/2 inch drywall in that situation. The IRC also requires 1/2 drywall on the interior of the garage walls with living space above. I believe a combustible panel applied over the drywall would be acceptable, but I'd clear it with the building department first.

 

[BlueKnife]

Has anyone used these PVC panels?? Would be easier to cut openings for electrical boxes, etc. Thoughts?

They wouldn't be very durable. Thin PVC like that cracks easily, especially in the cold. Be real easy to wack it with a board or whatever and put a hole in it. Also easy to melt a hole in it when throwing sparks at it with a grinder or torch, if that's something you do. It's not particularly difficult to cut holes for outlets in metal siding. Use a step drill and drill two opposite corners of the hole, then cut it out with snips.

 

[4570Man]

View attachment 5522177

Has anyone used these PVC panels?? Would be easier to cut openings for electrical boxes, etc. Thoughts?

I’ve not used pvc roofing panels. I put flat pvc boards in my pool pump room. Cleaning the filter dumps a bunch of water and I wanted a wall covering that would tolerate getting soaked in salt water. I wouldn’t use them in a shop. One is straight up cost. It was way more expensive than metal siding or OSB. It’s not very durable either. It’s comparable to drywall in strength. Thin pvc like that doesn’t cut very well either. They make dedicated saw blades for it but the easiest tool is a grinder. A cutoff wheel cuts it quickly and doesn’t chip it.

 

[turbo36]

What size are your mini split?

Are they 220 volts?

24,000 BTU

yes - 220V (230V)

2 units would have been enough but I went with 3 just incase I had to do a lot of door opening.

Pioneer WYF Hyperformance 24000 BTU Ductless Hyper Heat Pump

Discover year-round comfort with Pioneer Hyperformance ductless mini split heat pumps. Reliable heating to -22°F, energy-efficient, WiFi-enabled, 4-in-1 filter.

www.pioneerminisplit.com

 

[ETD66SS]

After seeing all of the pictures, I think full height steel panels would look the best.

If I were to use plywood as a wainscoating it would be 3/4" thick MOD, which runs about $175 per sheet, so something like $3600 for 4ft high around the perimeter.

If I don't go that route, I think I'd want to avoid attaching stuff to the steel panalled walls and rely on shelving & cabinet units.

 

[WinterDeere]

3/4 inch thick plywood is awful heavy for wallboard. My last two shops have been done in 7/16" OSB, with zero issues or regrets. If going plywood, I'd probably be using 3/8" or 1/2", not seeing any good reason to go heavier.

 

[ETD66SS]

3/4 inch thick plywood is awful heavy for wallboard. My last two shops have been done in 7/16" OSB, with zero issues or regrets. If going plywood, I'd probably be using 3/8" or 1/2", not seeing any good reason to go heavier.

I routinely watch the RR Buildings YT channel, he always uses 3/4". Not sure if it is for rigidity or to match the thickness of the steel panels at the wainscoating transition to steel.

 

[Runner]

If I don't go that route, I think I'd want to avoid attaching stuff to the steel panalled walls and rely on shelving & cabinet units.

I went with cheap steel storage cabinets from Office Depot. I like the clean look of having everything put away. Excuse the rest of the mess in the photo, that's what happens when you finish out a building after you already moved into it...

 

[EscapedSuburbia]

I went with cheap steel storage cabinets from Office Depot. I like the clean look of having everything put away. Excuse the rest of the mess in the photo, that's what happens when you finish out a building after you already moved into it...

I did the same. I don't like the cluttered look of shelves and having everything getting covered in dust. The one thing I haven't found a good solution for is how to store short metal pieces for the lathe & mill.

 

[Runner]

I did the same. I don't like the cluttered look of shelves and having everything getting covered in dust. The one thing I haven't found a good solution for is how to store short metal pieces for the lathe & mill.

I cheated and moved them to another building. Built a wood and metal storage system just for all that stuff. Out of sight, out of mind.

 

[ETD66SS]

I cheated and moved them to another building. Built a wood and metal storage system just for all that stuff. Out of sight, out of mind.
View attachment 5538269
View attachment 5538288
View attachment 5538296

That's the problem I am already having. I'm not done with my main structure and already thinking of the other buildings I "need"...

I have (5) 40ft standard height shipping containers I plan to use to build a shipping container shed with roof between for storing materials. However they won't be climate controlled.

 

[BlueKnife]

3/4 inch thick plywood is awful heavy for wallboard. My last two shops have been done in 7/16" OSB, with zero issues or regrets. If going plywood, I'd probably be using 3/8" or 1/2", not seeing any good reason to go heavier.

If a person wanted to attach shelf hangers or hooks to the wall for heavier items, that'd be a reason to go with 3/4. If they're going to use floor shelving units and only hang light items from hooks, then 1/2" would be fine. Another option is to throw up a few extra interior girts in strategic locations for attaching wall hung shelves or a row of hooks, if that's what's desired.

 

[Runner]

That's the problem I am already having. I'm not done with my main structure and already thinking of the other buildings I "need"...

I have (5) 40ft standard height shipping containers I plan to use to build a shipping container shed with roof between for storing materials. However they won't be climate controlled.

I know the feeling - I have 4 buildings and it's not enough. Actually, if I could just make the barn in the above pictures one bay bigger everything would be fine....