Quick hitch issue similar to Squirrel242 ...

[SouthernSky]

You could be right. I did try the diagram Bruce provided to see if that would work. The answer is sort of. I can raise or lower the 3-point and the top bolt will stay in the J-hook, BUT -- I cannot connect the PTO shaft because of the trailer hitch mount under the center of the QH. I may have to grind that mount off to keep the current QH configuration in the diagram. Unless I'm doing something wrong.

Side note - Does anybody truly LIKE their Quick Hitch or was I just hoping for something easier than Pat's??

 

[Midniteoyl]

Side note - Does anybody truly LIKE their Quick Hitch or was I just hoping for something easier than Pat's??

My no name eBay QH works perfectly so far using cheap King Kutter mowers and brush hogs.. Hardest part is hooking up the shaft. Mine doesn't have the trailer hitch to get in the way though.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I have the Pat's system. I know many like it but I found it cumbersome and am trying the QH. I can always go back to the Pat's stuff. I have learns there is nothing quick about a quick hitch.

Using a QH on the L3800 has sped up changing implements a lot.

Side note - Does anybody truly LIKE their Quick Hitch or was I just hoping for something easier than Pat's??

I would probably hate it if trying to use the top hook, but it wouldn't work with most of my implements so I'm using the link instead.

With connecting the lift arms being a non-issue with the QH, that leaves one pin to insert, connecting the link to the implement. That can take 15 seconds if I'm way off on the angle of the QH, which is nothing compared to fighting with the lift arms, and then the top link.

 

[SouthernSky]

I have similar hitch mount on my bucket so I won't need the one on the QH. Hopefully I can grind it off easily to gain the clearance. Seems like it must have worked for someone if they put it on the QH in the first place. Overall, I believe I made a stupid investment trying to make my life easier but failed in the execution.

 

[JDW 1]

I have similar hitch mount on my bucket so I won't need the one on the QH. Hopefully I can grind it off easily to gain the clearance. Seems like it must have worked for someone if they put it on the QH in the first place. Overall, I believe I made a stupid investment trying to make my life easier but failed in the execution.

Southernsky before you grind it off make sure it doesn't rub the quick hitch frame in all positions. All the way up and all the way down. When running my 2572 land pride finish mower I lower the draft arms all the way down so it can follow the contour of the ground. This is when I will get into trouble with contact of the quick hitch on the pto shift. With the pats of course there is no problem. Besides implements with pto, you have to get off and hook them up. There is more room to do so without the quick hitch. I also have a set of extendable draft arms I use which makes hooking up a breeze.

 

[HybridVigor]

I have the Pat's system. I know many like it but I found it cumbersome and am trying the QH. I can always go back to the Pat's stuff. I have learns there is nothing quick about a quick hitch.

If you haven’t heard of them, google the weld on Euro style hook and ball.

Compared to the one piece QH style you compromise still needing a separate step for the top link (which you lose the advantage of anyway if you have to have an adapter), but you keep the flexibility of easy adjustments and access around the PTO shaft. Compared to the Pats, I’d say they are more rugged and don’t extend the lower links as much. You can still use them with a traditional QH, but since they’re a weld on it is a more permanent commitment compared to the Pat’s and I understand if welding is a deal breaker.

If you have the chain style lower link width adjusters, you may find the pin style will make working with the Pat’s or Euro style less cumbersome too.

 

[SouthernSky]

I went back to the Pat's for now. Now all I need is two more tractors so I can have each dedicated to a permanent regularly-used attachment (like my L2650 with the non-working PTO now runs nothing but my box blade).

Thanks for all the help, folks. I think I bought the wrong QH but at least I tried it. There are just too many variables for it to be productive for me.

 

[Runner]

Side note - Does anybody truly LIKE their Quick Hitch or was I just hoping for something easier than Pat's??

I LOVE mine and after using it for almost 20 years, wouldn't be without it. Once you get it sorted out it makes your life so much easier. In order for me to get to my rotary cutter in the back of the barn, I have to move four other attachments and (with the help of a front quick hitch) I never have to get off the tractor.

The key is buy attachments that are compatible, if possible, and be willing to make a few mods (once) for any attachment that isn't, then you are good to go forever.

 

[SouthernSky]

With the exception of the finishing mower (and only because the factory says so), mine are not QH compatible. Perhaps if I ever need a replacement ...

 

[newkiotiguy]

You need to add a hydraulic top link with the pat's to make it really easy. They aren't very expensive.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Regardless of QH usage or not, I wouldn't want to use a tractor without a hydraulic top link.

 

[SouthernSky]

Regardless of QH usage or not, I wouldn't want to use a tractor without a hydraulic top link.

Never played with one actually.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Never played with one actually.

You don't know what your missing.

Whether using a blade, a box blade, a mower, just about whatever, I'm always grateful for having the hydraulic top links.

 

[JDW 1]

I would not be without a hydraulic top link period. Makes hooking up and operating a breeze.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

That's why I use the "Pat's" system.

Absolutely.

 

[Runner]

I would not be without a hydraulic top link period. Makes hooking up and operating a breeze.

I have always liked the idea of "top and tilt", but one thing concerns me about these hydraulics: Do they leak down (like every other hydraulic cylinder on the tractor)? I assume that answer is "yes".

If I am correct that these cylinders leak down, isn't it kind of a pain the neck to keep your attachment in a consistent orientation?

Example: Say 90% of the time, I am running a rear finish mower. I want to keep the top and side links in exactly the same orientation all the time. Will I have to readjust the T and T every time I start mowing?

 

[Alan W.]

Mine has never leaked down while using. It has a check valve built in to prevent that. I have seen them without it being sold.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

The remotes on my M6040 doesn't leak down as far as I've ever noticed. The ones on the L3800 are a different story.

They were so bad that they made me join TBN in the first place. Now I got them to where the leakdown is tolerable.

 

[SouthernSky]

Where does the two hoses on a hydraulic top link go to? All I have on my L3200 is a front end loader. I would need some sort of remote, right?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Get two remotes while you're at it.

Can't go wrong with Fit Rite, but there are other options, including OE setups.