Just another junk chainsaw

/ Just another junk chainsaw #2,721  
Happy New year

Little off topic, but has anyone seen an air filter (foam and plastic cartridge assembly) like this before? It’s for a Ryobi gas tool of a by-gone era.
Although the Ryobi tool is discontinued, I wondered if any other 2-cycle gas tools used this same air cleaner?
It’s the white piece on the left. Fits on a Walbro carb.
 

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/ Just another junk chainsaw #2,722  
Can you disassemble and replace the filter bits instead of the whole unit?
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,723  
New owner of the echo 3510 loves it so far. Older guy I traded it to for the easy start stihl. = Thanks,. I pulled on it twice and it fired off.
SKEERED me a little

e3510tx.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,724  
I think that stihl 250c easy start I traded for will clean up nicely.

Hopefully be easy to start for dad too. Little harder then the easy start 180 I gave him years back.

Going to replace those purge bulb lines with echo oem ones.

New purge bulb and Denso plug put in to check things. Start up in couple pulls. 😎👍

Might get him a new muffler set too.



 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,725  
Line routing for purge

s250dpurge.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,726  
New muffler ordered.

Muffler was getting loose and caused some melt on the plastic. But nothing through as far as I can see.

Piston is sweet

s250dp.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,727  
250C Just so you know if you come across one with H L and I on zama. Their 250c IPL shows it. 24 L, 25 H and 23 I and fully adjustable too. Another guy in my group said he just noticed same thing.

Was just the walbro 215 one.

Trash yellow lines gone now too.


s250carbc.jpg
s250carb.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,728  
Also just to show. The 250c manual does show the walbro and zama fully adjustable carbs too.
Not just the zama non H ones shown in IPL.

Lower is what this saw has and what others in my group has seen in 250c they worked on recently.

s250cipll.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,729  
Before putting back to show the L up there in handle with screwdriver and H back. I down low.

s250carbbb.jpg
s250carbb.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw #2,730  
Can you disassemble and replace the filter bits instead of the whole unit?
Only thing I have been able to do so far is buy filter foam blocks and try to cut a similarly sized piece out and press it into the plastic housing.
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,731  
Muffler shows Sat delivery. Will know more then.

Found what I was missing on IPL. #12

Pan head screw DIN84-M4x5-8.8

Time to run to run to hardware store if I cant find something to work or make one.



s250ctensioner.jpg
s250ctenbolt.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,732  
Before and after. Just using that wd40 degreaser that is safe for plastics and aluminum. Doesn’t turn aluminum black soaking cylinders etc either.
Spray on let set, spray off. But I add in a bristle brush then wipe down.

I ended up turning it down to a safe 12.8-13 tune. I think I seen in manual 14 was max. What it was at today when checking.
So yes H side Zama working great.

Good enough for dad. Because I know it won’t ever get this clean again.

Only things left to fix is the oil tank plug melted some by muffler and leaks now and new muffler I’m waiting on. Had to drill it to get it out. Never had to remove one before. Usually just missing.

Might put some heat tape down there on side and muffler area too.

s250z.jpg
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s250zxxxxxx.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,733  
Just a warning on this. Every time I have replaced that plug it has been missing.

This one was still in it but had melted and started leaking. I tried picking at it etc to get it out. That never worked.
I ended up drilling a small hole in it to try and get out.

Don’t push to hard though. It will go downward into it. :rolleyes:😁

s250oilll.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,734  
Homemade and hardware store bought grub shown. No need for their part in manual.

Grub installed with red loctite . Talking pocket change cost.

It’s that simple for guys always asking here.

s025pluggg.JPG
s250oill.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,735  
Just to show guys that ask. Here is that hole inside that you do not want to cover sticking the grub in use red or orange loctite.

You only go so deep while installing and cutting it's own threads.

s250oil.jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw #2,736  
what is the location and purpose purpose of the "grub"
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,738  
Some say don’t use Loctite near plastic
Yes they have a warning not for plastics where stress cracking could occur on thermoplastics.
Which these cases are not.

I always have on these. Per stihl service manual.

Read the first line 2nd paragraph, straight from shop manual. ;) It works been doing it for this for many many years now.

splugfixx (2).jpg
 
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/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,739  
what is the location and purpose purpose of the "grub"
Plastic stihls have them in certain models. They used a plastic injected plug from factory that falls out over time.
Should have used the grub from get go IMO.
Common issue.

Then your saw will leak bar oil out beside their mufflers.

splugfixx (2).jpg
 
/ Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#2,740  
Little fine tuning with the new muffler kit.

I started it without using purge bulb today. Couple pulls all it took still.
1 pull starts after warm.

Calling it good ready for the trip to dads to be a back up 250 easy start to his 180 easy start.

He was wanting a saw to use 18” on too.
So this saw if he can start it covers all bases.

s250dadx.jpg
 

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