Deere 4100 blows starter/glow plug fuse when pulling pto switch

[coloradotrout]

I had been mowing for an hour when it suddenly died. No dash lights, nothing. I found that the 10A fuse was blown. I replaced it, started right up, but when I engaged the PTO switch, the fuse blew again. Later I installed a 7.5A fuse and mowed for about 30m before the fuse blew. Hydraulic fluid is at minimum on the dipstick. I do have a leak at the fitting attached to the pump. The finish mower was working hard but not stalling.

What can I check?

 

[coloradotrout]

Another thread noted there are 3 solenoids that may have bad windings. The first time I replaced the fuse it only ran for a few minutes after pulling the PTO switch. The 2nd time it ran for nearly 30 minutes before that fuse blew.

 

[coloradotrout]

John Deere 4100 Blowing 10 amp Fuse when PTO Engaged

I think may be your direct shorting a wire with movement also as it happens after your started and moving. My shop manual shows all these circuits (HST) are protected by the F2 fuse BR1& BR2 terminals on key switch Glow plug module Glow plug relay Fuel relay PTO switch PTO relay Fuel gauge...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[coloradotrout]

Resistance on the PTO solenoid was 5 ohms. After running the PTO awhile the fuse blew, the solenoid was hot, and resistance 1 ohm. I'm assuming I have a bad solenoid. The spec says 8 to 10 ohms

 

[WranglerX]

Resistance on the PTO solenoid was 5 ohms. After running the PTO awhile the fuse blew, the solenoid was hot, and resistance 1 ohm. I'm assuming I have a bad solenoid. The spec says 8 to 10 ohms

Would seem so.....

 

[Mike1955]

Normally a good solenoid’s resistance would increase with heat. So it sounds like a good possibility that coil is bad. Now for what caused this overheating was most likely dirty clutch plate or maybe worn and too much distance for that coil to pull in. So the entire clutch may need changing. Just some food for thought. Good luck

 

[coloradotrout]

Normally a good solenoid’s resistance would increase with heat. So it sounds like a good possibility that coil is bad. Now for what caused this overheating was most likely dirty clutch plate or maybe worn and too much distance for that coil to pull in. So the entire clutch may need changing. Just some food for thought. Good luck

Thanks. I don't like the sounds of that! Good to know however. It has 2600 hours. Not sure where it's useful life is, but we push it pretty hard. Mowing, tilling and not in easy conditions. The coil got very hot to the touch. But wouldn't an electromagnetic pull to the same spot regardless?

 

[Mike1955]

Thanks. I don't like the sounds of ! Good to know however. It has 2600 hours. Not sure where it's useful life is, but we push it pretty hard. Mowing, tilling and not in easy conditions. The coil got very hot to the touch. But wouldn't an electromagnetic pull to the same spot regardless?

Colorado trout I’m not sure. Any problems I have dealt with were either a switch or a coil. Looks like the current could be monitored and that would give you an idea where you stand, but I have never did that. I guess if I were you I would buy a solenoid and cross my fingers. Good luck sir

 

[coloradotrout]

Colorado trout I’m not sure. Any problems I have dealt with were either a switch or a coil. Looks like the current could be monitored and that would give you an idea where you stand, but I have never did that. I guess if I were you I would buy a solenoid and cross my fingers. Good luck sir

I'm trying a $70 coil from Amazon. JD has a $110 one and a $160 one. We'll see

 

[coloradotrout]

Ok. Taking the old one off is 10x more difficult than I anticipated. I ground off the coil part. Now I need to remove the threaded piece. But it's recessed in with little clearance to fit a wrench. I may need to fabricate a tool