Blind Pin on NH TC30

[kotchz]

The power steering cylinder dropped all its fluid after running over stump. I've tried many lubricants to attempt to get the blind pin out of the axle to remove cylinder for rebuild. Kroil, Blaster. The 3/4x2" pin has a welded flange screwed to the axle which I unscrewed and beat the hell out of to try to get it the pin to turn. No spin. Supposedly there is 2 bushings in there which I cannot see. Oh and the pin has a grease fitting which I removed and saw no grease but no rust. The only option that I can think of is to buy or borrow a slide hammer. Don't know how hard the pin is. I would have to figure a way to get the front end up higher. It has a loader which is not a small job to remove. Never tried. Any other ideas to get the pin out?

 

[skramer360]

I would remove the loader to start. It isn't that big of a deal and will make all the work on the front end way easier. Your local Autozone or other parts house may have a slide hammer puller available to use for free (pay a deposit, get it all back when returned in good condition).

 

[dicktill]

The power steering cylinder dropped all its fluid after running over stump. I've tried many lubricants to attempt to get the blind pin out of the axle to remove cylinder for rebuild. Kroil, Blaster. The 3/4x2" pin has a welded flange screwed to the axle which I unscrewed and beat the hell out of to try to get it the pin to turn. No spin. Supposedly there is 2 bushings in there which I cannot see. Oh and the pin has a grease fitting which I removed and saw no grease but no rust. The only option that I can think of is to buy or borrow a slide hammer. Don't know how hard the pin is. I would have to figure a way to get the front end up higher. It has a loader which is not a small job to remove. Never tried. Any other ideas to get the pin out?

Don't really have an answer for you, but with the grease fitting out, loading the inside of the pin with PBlaster won't hurt.

 

[thclimer]

Any chance you could post a picture of what you are trying to take apart?

 

[TractorTech]

I assume you are talking about removing pin #8 in the axle illustration. About the only way to get it out will probably be with a Broco or exothermic torch.
I also assume you have buggered the pin/mount tab pretty well, but it is not necessary to remove the cylinder to rebuild. Gut the cylinder in place and reseal the gland and piston.

 

[kotchz]

Thanks, yea I couldn't get pin "8 to turn and buggered the mount tab enough to decide that this is not going to get the pin to spin and loosen it. I don't know torches so I don't follow. As far as rebuilding the cylinder on the tractor I thought well let me see if I can at least unscrew the end of the cylinder and I then noticed that it was crimped or spot hammered. Was unsuccessful in removing the crimp. I appreciate any more help.

 

[kotchz]

I assume you are talking about removing pin #8 in the axle illustration. About the only way to get it out will probably be with a Broco or exothermic torch.
I also assume you have buggered the pin/mount tab pretty well, but it is not necessary to remove the cylinder to rebuild. Gut the cylinder in place and reseal the gland and piston.

Above

 

[nyone]

If the pin wont turn a slide hammer wont do anything. You need to get that pin turning. Welding a large nut on it and useing a impact is a good start. Next would be heat and the impact.

 

[kotchz]

If the pin wont turn a slide hammer wont do anything. You need to get that pin turning. Welding a large nut on it and useing a impact is a good start. Next would be heat and the impa

If the pin wont turn a slide hammer wont do anything. You need to get that pin turning. Welding a large nut on it and useing a impact is a good start. Next would be heat and the impact.

It's got a flat mounting tab welded to it. Look at the diagram above, the parts list "8. I wish that I had welding experience. You would need to heat the axle, not the pin which is impossible. The welded nut is a good idea to get it to spin at least but I don't have the equipment or the skill.

 

[nyone]

And? Weld a nut on it to spin it.

 

[kotchz]

And? Weld a nut on it to spin it.

see edit

 

[Harry in Ky]

I wish you good luck with all that. If it were my project I would forget the pin. Bolt or no bolt it's not likely to fall out anytime soon. I would disconnect the hoses, unscrew the gland nut and pull the rod/piston unit out and deal with it. No real need to take the barrel off in my opinion. I do it that way every chance I get. I probably wouldn't go to New Holland for the seals though. $165 for the "kit" sounds a little steep to me.

 

[kotchz]

I wish you good luck with all that. If it were my project I would forget the pin. Bolt or no bolt it's not likely to fall out anytime soon. I would disconnect the hoses, unscrew the gland nut and pull the rod/piston unit out and deal with it. No real need to take the barrel off in my opinion. I do it that way every chance I get. I probably wouldn't go to New Holland for the seals though. $165 for the "kit" sounds a little steep to me.

Two questions: How would remove the "crimp" in the one area of the gland so that I can unscrew it and where can I get a better price on the seals? Thanks

 

[Harry in Ky]

Power Steering Cylinder Assy. W/fwd | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for POWER STEERING CYLINDER ASSY. W/FWD. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

I'm not sure what crimp your asking about. Looks like they used the same cylinder and seal kit for both 2 and 4 WD tractors. (oddly enough) Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like the nut has notches on the outside which should work well with a pipe wrench. (My tool of choice in this situation) So what do you see that's crimped?

 

[kotchz]

Power Steering Cylinder Assy. W/fwd | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for POWER STEERING CYLINDER ASSY. W/FWD. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

I'm not sure what crimp your asking about. Looks like they used the same cylinder and seal kit for both 2 and 4 WD tractors. (oddly enough) Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like the nut has notches on the outside which should work well with a pipe wrench. (My tool of choice in this situation) So what do you see that's crimped?

The nut has 2 notches as you say. I forget the name of the pliers- like snap ring pliers. I'll try and find the tool but one of the notches has been peened in. Trying to turn this "as you say nut" is not possible with a screw driver and a hammer. The diagram on Messicks appears to show the notches on the outside of the nut not on the face as mine is. Are they different or is it an illusion, don't know. The peening is on the cylinder, not on the nut. I guess the manufacturer did not want the nut which holds the seal to back off and ultimately leak.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Well you're looking at the cylinder, I'm looking at a diagram. I believe the gland is actually a nut (of sorts) threaded into the barrel. It very well could have been peened on assembly as a precaution. That doesn't mean it's permanently adhered. I would put a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe on the end of it onto that nut/gland/part (whatever it's called) and do my best to unscrew it. I would do that before removing it from the machine in all cases anyway. Having it securely mounted is far better than a vise attached to a bench. I carry two or three different size pipe wrenches and cheater pipes to match when I go out to work on a cylinder. Sometimes I will take a hand grinder and make some flat spots for the pipe wrench to grip on.

 

[kotchz]

Well you're looking at the cylinder, I'm looking at a diagram. I believe the gland is actually a nut (of sorts) threaded into the barrel. It very well could have been peened on assembly as a precaution. That doesn't mean it's permanently adhered. I would put a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe on the end of it onto that nut/gland/part (whatever it's called) and do my best to unscrew it. I would do that before removing it from the machine in all cases anyway. Having it securely mounted is far better than a vise attached to a bench. I carry two or three different size pipe wrenches and cheater pipes to match when I go out to work on a cylinder. Sometimes I will take a hand grinder and make some flat spots for the pipe wrench to grip on.

You know I apologize. The notches are on the side and the face. The part of the gland that is showing is only 3/16" deep. If you are looking at the diagram on Messicks like you were to buy the complete cylinder ($1000) and blow up the cylinder as much as possible which isn't much you can just about see the peen on the top notch.
Thanks Harry, I'll get it rebuilt on the tractor and let you know how it turns out.

 

[kotchz]

Thanks for all your help guys. Lots of great ideas. I'll get it rebuilt on the tractor and not worry about the stuck pin. The hydraulics are enough to turn the steering and fixing the very bad leak will do for as long as I own the tractor.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Thanks for all your help guys. Lots of great ideas. I'll get it rebuilt on the tractor and not worry about the stuck pin. The hydraulics are enough to turn the steering and fixing the very bad leak will do for as long as I own the tractor.

I seriously doubt the stubborn pin is much of a threat down the road. If you're really concerned about it (which I doubt) you can always take a cut off wheel, cut the distorted tab off and bolt larger flat washer on it's place.

 

[kotchz]

I seriously doubt the stubborn pin is much of a threat down the road. If you're really concerned about it (which I doubt) you can always take a cut off wheel, cut the distorted tab off and bolt larger flat washer on it's place.

Good idea, but I can clean up the tab and screw it back in place.