Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

[Gem99ultra]

Looks like you already have lots of suggestions on the shop build. I'm in the process for one for my son; I've already had mine built several years ago.

Price for just the metal building was ~$50K. Foundation and electrical will run about the same.

My only suggestion would be to classify it with the County as a 'barn'. Much lower tax rate!

 

[eolesen]

Great thread. I'm having a 30x50x14 shop put up by Summertown Metals, with material arriving Friday... should be up by end of the month. Was approx $37K including the slab. We are in unincorporated TN, so no permit or inspection for a pole barn.

Concrete slab will be poured after the structure is up. Putting sleeves into the slab to run water at some point, and 3" conduit for electric service later. Someone here convinced me to add two floor drains along the center line.

Added an open 12x50x12 lean-to that will be gravel for all the same reasons mentioned by others. Leaving space for a second lean-to on the other side.

Two roll-up doors on the 30-foot face - 12x12 and 8x10. The 12x12 is to accommodate the RV, although it will likely get stored in the lean-to. Man door opening to the lean-to.

On the back wall, I'm planning a small enclosed area at ground level (maybe 12ft x 15) with a loft spanning the entire 30ft width mainly for storage and also to be able to walk onto the RV roof as needed. We have steel trusses, so that the entire pitched area of the roof is available. With14ft walls, that gives us 6-10 feet of overhead space in the loft.

I'm not planning to do more than ceiling fans in the main area. Mini-split for the enclosed space.

 

[EddieWalker]

That sounds like a good-sized building with plenty of doors and storage!!

 

[gsganzer]

One of the things I've found to be really handy is an air station on the outside of the shop. Mine has a pressure gauge (so I can tell if the air system is charged) a shut off valve (in case hose has a leak) and then a 50'hose with an air chuck and blow gun. It comes in handy to fill tires and blow out filters and such.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Yes I wish I had my 2 stage 175 psi compressor outside. I would have it on concrete in a small insulated room with door.
About 5ft x 8ft would be fine plus garden hose storage. I have an air hose reel which is handy for outside.
I should have insulated everything before moving things in and you can't have too many outlets.

 

[RayIN]

Yes I wish I had my 2 stage 175 psi compressor outside. I would have it on concrete in a small insulated room with door.
About 5ft x 8ft would be fine plus garden hose storage. I have an air hose reel which is handy for outside.
I should have insulated everything before moving things in and you can't have too many outlets.

Placing an air compressor outside in an unheated area results in a lot of condensation in the storage tank.

 

[eolesen]

There's my shop....

View attachment 4079956

 

[EddieWalker]

Those trusses are interesting. I've been planning on buying something similar, but I've never seen them built as strong as yours look.

 

[eolesen]

Summertown does their own fabrication, so these might be from their own shop. I'll ask... they sell materials as well as doing the assembly. I am buying some 24ft 6x6's to shore up an outbuilding that has a sagging floor... they'll come on the same truck as our house did so delivery was more or less free.

My trusses are for the 30 ft span, but their catalog lists up to 40ft on 6x6, and 60ft on 8x8 posts at 10 to 12 ft spacing.

 

[dstig1]

1 shop, some assembly required...

Your profile by your name says tractor: none, but you clearly show a Kubota in the pic. Looks like maybe an L series?

 

[EddieWalker]

I looked up their website and location. They are 9 hours from me and they don't list the price of their trusses.

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the framing and your comments on installing the trusses.

 

[eolesen]

1 shop, some assembly required...

Your profile by your name says tractor: none, but you clearly show a Kubota in the pic. Looks like maybe an L series?

2020 L4701DT actually. I access the forums on the Tapatalk app, which can't update the profile.

Crew will be out this week or next to put up the shell. Sooner the better... I've got two storage units that I need to get out of paying for.

 

[hayden]

I've seen a number of pole barns where the slab is poured after the building is up. Is that the norm for a pole barn, and if so, why? It would seem so much easier to pour it before the rest of the building, both for access for the pour, and to provide a much better working surface/space for putting up the building.

What's the motivation for doing it the other way around?

 

[aircommuter]

Trusses are usually designed per building and location since many factors affect how they are used.

 

[eolesen]

The weight of the pole barn rests on the poles, which are anchored like you'd see a fence post - a 18 to 24" wide hole deeper than the frost line and filled with concrete.

That likely doesn't work well with setting form boards or rebar for the slab.

 

[aircommuter]

I think he means to pour the slab after the poles are done but not the remainder of the building.

 

[eolesen]

Timing... pole barns can go up in 2 to 3 days start to finish, and once the poles go in the ground, the purlins and siding help keep everything upright.

Most have a large enough opening to get the concrete inside, and waiting for the concrete guys would definitely slow that down. Plus, its a job they can do in the rain...

 

[redman135]

I haven't looked at the previous pages so these pionts may have been raised.
Floor: ENSURE enough fall to drain floor properly(no puddles). Inadequate fall is common mistake.
Outside: DRAIN the roof to at least 2 metres from building, further if in soft/eroadable/steep soil. Better still,if you are on water rates, drain roof into tanks for vehicle washing etc.

 

[aircommuter]

Timing... pole barns can go up in 2 to 3 days start to finish, and once the poles go in the ground, the purlins and siding help keep everything upright.

Most have a large enough opening to get the concrete inside, and waiting for the concrete guys would definitely slow that down. Plus, its a job they can do in the rain...

If you have rebar and pipes or conduits you don’t want the truck inside.

 

[hayden]

I think he means to pour the slab after the poles are done but not the remainder of the building.

Yes, that's what I was thinking. Pour the bases for the posts, then pour the slab. Then have the building crew come in and erect the building. I have been watching Tractor Time With Tim as he builds his building and it just looked so much more difficult to do all the slab excavation, forming and pouring with the building in the way.

I'm in the early stages of building a steel building with similar post/footing requirements. We plan to pour the columns for the posts, then form and pour the slab. Then the building will go up, and we will have a nice working surface where we can easily operate a scissor lift, etc.