Warranty work lessons learned.

[Dude1234]

Any thoughts comments, suggestions contacts? Would be much appreciated. I don’t mind picking up the tractor taking it to a different store. I just like to get this done and be moved on as I need the tractor as a season and they told me they didn’t give me a loaner.

 

[DonRybak]

Are you talking about the arms on the front end loader or 3 point hitch? Did this just start or has it been an issue from the start?

 

[Dude1234]

3 point hitch, from the start.

 

[ptsg]

Was this tractor bought new? Can you tell if there was anything added to the hydraulic system? Like a 3rd function in the loader?

 

[DonRybak]

Glad you got some response. Hopefully it will be a quick fix and you can get back to the field.

 

[DonRybak]

Any update on your issue?

 

[bmaverick]

I finally got the tractor back yesterday. They just replaced the rear remotes and said that it is now operating normally. They said to run the tractor in the forward or reverse position. The middle position doesn’t do anything….

I explained to themit still is doing the exact same thing and the rear and is getting so hot that steam is coming off of it and I will lose function to my loader. I spoke with the lead tech and he told me it’s normal and most people carry gloves in their tractor if they need to do something on their rear end.

Something seriously wrong and they don’t know so I’ll be giving him a call today as well. Which is unfortunate because I live two hours away.

 

[bmaverick]

I finally got the tractor back yesterday. They just replaced the rear remotes and said that it is now operating normally. They said to run the tractor in the forward or reverse position. The middle position doesn’t do anything….

I explained to themit still is doing the exact same thing and the rear and is getting so hot that steam is coming off of it and I will lose function to my loader. I spoke with the lead tech and he told me it’s normal and most people carry gloves in their tractor if they need to do something on their rear end.

Something seriously wrong and they don’t know so I’ll be giving him a call today as well. Which is unfortunate because I live two hours away.

By chance, what hydraulic fluid is recommended in the TYM part of this tractor? If it was a Yanmar or Deere, JDM J20C Hygard or Yanmar TF500A should only be used.

If it is HOT to the touch, I would strongly recommend Lube Gard.

Amazon.com

 

[ray66v]

I bought a tractor from a well established local dealer, who had been in business forever. I figured, parts and service, will be easy.

A few years later, they stopped selling my brand. No parts, no service, just apologies.

The lesson there is, you can't count on anything.

As far as the service goes, that dealer picked up my tractor for a small hydraulic leak, and returned it to me, with a big hydraulic leak.

After that, the next two warranty claims, were handled by me signing a work order, and taking the defective part home to install myself.

The lesson there is, you are the probably only one who actually cares about your tractor.

So, while the OP's issue is not that simple, it may help to know, no matter what you buy, you can still end up feeling some regret.

 

[JTKub]

By chance, what hydraulic fluid is recommended in the TYM part of this tractor? If it was a Yanmar or Deere, JDM J20C Hygard or Yanmar TF500A should only be used.

If it is HOT to the touch, I would strongly recommend Lube Gard.

Amazon.com

I know with my TYM T224, TYMs recommendation for hydraulic fluid is any AW32 universal tractor hydraulic fluid. No fancy OEM fluid recommendations listed.

With my little T224, there is no fluid cooler. Only the fan on the input of the hydrostat. I would hope something the size of the OP's RK55 would have an aux fluid cooler.

 

[LouNY]

I know with my TYM T224, TYMs recommendation for hydraulic fluid is any AW32 universal tractor hydraulic fluid. No fancy OEM fluid recommendations listed.

With my little T224, there is no fluid cooler. Only the fan on the input of the hydrostat. I would hope something the size of the OP's RK55 would have an aux fluid cooler.

Does your tractor have wet or dry brakes?
I am surprised at a recommendation of AW32 as that is a hydraulic only fluid, it is not a Universal Tractor transmission/Hydraulic fluid such as this at a minimum:

 

[JTKub]

Does your tractor have wet or dry brakes?
I am surprised at a recommendation of AW32 as that is a hydraulic only fluid, it is not a Universal Tractor transmission/Hydraulic fluid such as this at a minimum:

That's good to know. I'm still waiting to take delivery of my T224, but the manual says it's got wet brakes. Here's a pic of the fluid recommendations page in the owner's manual. There is some Chinglish in the manual for sure:

 

[LouNY]

That is a contradictory page there for transmission fluid, does your tractor have a separate reservoir for hydraulics?

API GL-4 is a light duty gear lube and I believe the lightest weight is 80W,
ISO VG-32 is about the same viscosity as 10W motor oil.
Quite a difference!

Most Multi-purpose tractor transmission/hydraulic fluids are closer to a 10W-30 viscosity and have additives for wet brakes and a complete additive package to provide several other protections.

 

[JTKub]

One reservoir for the hydraulics and drive system. It's setup just like every other SCUT I've seen.

I'm thinking something got lost in translation or that API GL-4 (gear lube spec) on the transmission fluid line in the book is a typo.

 

[ptsg]

Not only the T224 has wet brakes, it also has a wet clutch for the PTO. I would say it's definitely a typo and I would be using UTTO instead of straight hydraulic oil.

 

[WinterDeere]

No advice on fluids or RK tractors, but one very general comment on temperature / gloves, etc.

People often think that because something is hot to the touch, it must be bad. But hydraulic fluids and transmission fluids are often spec'd for 180F or higher, whereas your hand is not going to be happy touching anything hotter than about 120F. Normal operating temperature might be 150F, which is screaming hot for your hand, but totally fine with regard to the components and fluids involved.

Of course, "steam", if that's what you're really seeing, doesn't happen below 212F. That is awful hot for the outside casing on any transmission component.

 

[JTKub]

I bought a tractor from a well established local dealer, who had been in business forever. I figured, parts and service, will be easy.

A few years later, they stopped selling my brand. No parts, no service, just apologies.

The lesson there is, you can't count on anything.

As far as the service goes, that dealer picked up my tractor for a small hydraulic leak, and returned it to me, with a big hydraulic leak.

After that, the next two warranty claims, were handled by me signing a work order, and taking the defective part home to install myself.

The lesson there is, you are the probably only one who actually cares about your tractor.

So, while the OP's issue is not that simple, it may help to know, no matter what you buy, you can still end up feeling some regret.

Unfortunately this is the way it's going today. Everyone seems to recommend you choose a make/model with excellent dealer support. IMO even the big guys in the game can't maintain the parts inventory, staffing, knowledge and resources needed to solve their product line's issues.

With things like my SCUT and various pieces of OPE, I first consider what I'll be able to do myself in terms of maintenance and service, then I consider parts and info availability online. My last consideration is the dealer network, as I know they're your best buddy at the time of sale. Afterwards, not so much.

 

[newbury]

With things like my SCUT and various pieces of OPE, I first consider what I'll be able to do myself in terms of maintenance and service, then I consider parts and info availability online. My last consideration is the dealer network, as I know they're your best buddy at the time of sale. Afterwards, not so much.

Also very important it the knowledge and user base online.
Although sometimes there is an overabundance of free information.

 

[R Barger]

One reservoir for the hydraulics and drive system. It's setup just like every other SCUT I've seen.

I'm thinking something got lost in translation or that API GL-4 (gear lube spec) on the transmission fluid line in the book is a typo.

The RK 37 shows the same spec. I have been thinking about buying one and that spec confused me. I think I'm going to talk to Rural King about it.

 

[JTKub]

The RK 37 shows the same spec. I have been thinking about buying one and that spec confused me. I think I'm going to talk to Rural King about it.

Like @ptsg suggested above, I confirmed with my TYM dealer. They use universal tractor hydraulic fluid/oil. Anything compatible with wet clutches, brakes, hydrostatic drives and hydraulics. Not that it's something that has to be touched all that often beyond the recommended first 50hr service, but it's nice to not have to use $$$ OEM fluids.

I like the coolant recommendation too: "Antifreeze".

I'm still undecided on the engine oil/filter for the Yanmar 3TNM. I will run a diesel spec'd oil for sure, but 5w30 or 10w30 like the chart leads to? I dunno.. They're supposedly shipped with 10w30 in them.