Have I been using my weed trimmer wrong?

[ning]

This guy regularly trims next door.
Is this how you do it? Rev-rev-rev non-stop? Have I been doing it wrong this whole time?

 

[ultrarunner]

Steady throttle for me… slow around sensitive areas and speed for tall grasses and scrub…

Maybe he likes to sound?

 

[Eagle1]

I do that lot keeps the heat down and stuff does not kill you flying around. Full throttle for thick patches. I see no reason for wide open around breakable things like rocks or launchable nuts on the ground (Hickory, acorns, walnuts, etc).
I have cut back since I retired but used to trim around 50 campers and their stuff, hidden stuff can be dangerous to people and things.

 

[scootr]

Guilty

 

[5030]

Innocent... I run mine wide open all the time and mine is over 30 years old and no issues at all. Stihl FS66 straight shaft and ususally has the Stihl metal brush blade in the end 2 strokes are meant to run at rated rpm anyway. I do run canned gas in it, Echo 50-1 Red Armor.

 

[rontaki]

I operated my trimmer without the guard mounted, in order to have maximum control and manouverability. I also always wore the face screen/earmuff protection, several times something big enough to notice bounced off the face protector screen. Eyeglasses cought the smaller stuff.
I didn't mow near people, and used extreme caution around windows, etc.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Not me, I let go at each end of the swing when its not cutting and full throttle in the between (if required), a 2 stroke engine like throttle variation.

 

[Runner]

If he wants to rev it that much, he should take the guard off and let a couple more inches of line out (like I do). He could cover the area faster and longer line helps keep up the momentum for when you hit heavier weeds.

 

[scootr]

Not me, I let go at each end of the swing when its not cutting and full throttle in the between if required, a 2 stroke engine like throttle variation.

I believe 2 strokes run cooler revving up and down that at steady throttle.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Only time I run mine wide open is when I'm cutting down heavy or thick stuff that needs it. Rest of the time its half throttle at best and feathering it as I go. No need to run it harder if it's cutting down what you're aiming at. Had an old timer small engine mechanic (one of the best in the business in the N. Phoenix area, 30 years worth of reputation and knowledge running his own shop at the time) tell me decades ago, no reason to run one that hard, it's only hard on the equipment. Wastes fuel, wastes trimmer line, hard on the engine, hard on the shaft and bearings, and doesn't do any better of a job.

 

[bigtiller]

Innocent... I run mine wide open all the time and mine is over 30 years old and no issues at all. Stihl FS66 straight shaft and ususally has the Stihl metal brush blade in the end 2 strokes are meant to run at rated rpm anyway. I do run canned gas in it, Echo 50-1 Red Armor.

Same here. I run all my 2 cycle motors full throttle, even when moving to the next cut. They are like tractors, designed to work WOT all day long.

 

[RandyT]

Several years ago there was an issue with a construction company burning up their 2 cycle saws cutoff saw while cutting plastic pvc pipe. After a few scored cylinders it was discovered that the saw had proper fuel to air ratio's at idle and full throttle they were running lean at mid-throttle leading to scored cylinders since the operators were not using full throttle since they didn't need it while cutting plastic pipe.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

I'm in the feathering camp. WOT when cutting swing, release in between. Sounds like I'm riding my dirt bike...

 

[Rockbadchild]

I believe 2 strokes run cooler revving up and down that at steady throttle.

You would be right believing that, throttle variation helps lubrication and preventing hot/dry spots... I have learn from mechanics that during a initial break in for a 4 stroke you want steady throttle and increasing the RPM over time, for 2 stroke you want quick burst and increasing the length of these burst over time, to me the same principle apply while operating them. From a sled to a trimmer to a chainsaw to a dirt bike I always make sure I have throttle variation, not saying I never hold it balls out but I make sure I do give them a ''break'' from time to time. If someone give me any 2 stroke and say blow it up what would anyone do ? they would holds it balls out until it blow up.

 

[ericm979]

Lately I have been in the full throttle camp, except when I need slower string speed around fences or other obstacles. I find that I get more time on a tank of fuel. I suspect that my carb runs rich at mid throttle openings.

Two stroke power equipment like string trimmers, blowers and chain saws are made to be run full throttle all the time. Unlike two stroke motorcycles. The carbs are often designed to run well only at idle and full throttle. The engines are lightly stressed (low power for the displacement) compared to motorcycles and are fan cooled so they don't overheat.

 

[ning]

My Echo straight shaft has been run WOT for more than 20 years now, pump gas cheap 2-stroke oil.

I only left off the gas when there's nothing to cut; if it's light I'll feather the throttle while it's light, but I don't bounce at all.

I have no idea why you guys are calling what he's doing "feathering"...

I can say it's obnoxiousAF to listen to that all day, I'd rather hear WOT and have a hope he's going to get done sooner.

 

[TractorGunn]

This guy regularly trims next door.
Is this how you do it? Rev-rev-rev non-stop? Have I been doing it wrong this whole time?

My huskie trimmer says to not run full throttle for lengths of time, and to do it in spurts like that.

I read that after I ran it for long lengths of times for years.

Now I have an electric milwaukee trimmer.

 

[John0829]

Had an old timer small engine mechanic (one of the best in the business in the N. Phoenix area, 30 years worth of reputation and knowledge running his own shop at the time) tell me decades ago, no reason to run one that hard, it's only hard on the equipment. Wastes fuel, wastes trimmer line, hard on the engine, hard on the shaft and bearings, and doesn't do any better of a job.

I have said this for years, only run the engine fast enough to do the job with lugging or dogging it down. ANY air cooled engine only needs to be run fast enough to get the job done without causing it to labor. It does not need to run at WOT for cooling, the fan moves air proportionate to the speed of the engine. Last time I had to prove this was using an ExMark Laser Z cutting two side by side as near to identical sections of grass as possible, ran the engine at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle for 30 minutes cutting grass then took the temps of the heads, block, oil cooler and hydros. Then running it at WOT cutting the other section of grass the temps at WOT were on average 10 degrees hotter and you can prove it to yourself by using an IR temp gun.

I have proved many times over the years and I have 30-40+ year old air cooled engines that run as well today as they did when bought new that seldom ever have been run at WOT.

I usually avoid these types of discussions because people have their minds made up and refuse to accept something that is provable.

 

[Will_C]

I run the conditions call for. Trimming around the house, lots of Hal throttle and idle. Cutting hundreds of feet of ditch with 3’ high weeds-wide open.

 

[2515R Dude]

On a different note, my friend drives like this. He constantly pushes and releases the gas pedal. If he wants to drive let's say 70mph he constantly moves 65-75 without ever staying at 70. It's been like that for over 40 years since I know him