John Deere Oil Filter Changes

[Runner]

Noticed that JD changed the design of the oil filters for the 2520 when I did my annual oil change the other day. This is the same old part number they've had since 2007 (M806419), but now the filter is smaller. Looks more like what you might find for a Honda or Toyota. Usually, they do it the other way around, i.e., the part stays the same but the part number changes. I guess the new smaller one will work OK since they are selling it for the same purpose. See attached pics of old, new and a couple of car filters for comparison. Thread and gasket size are the same.

 

[Tpondel]

Experienced the Same. Smaller one working fine.

 

[dieselade]

filters for lawn mowers is smaller also.

 

[WinterDeere]

I asked the parts manager for my local Deere dealer about this last year, when I'd noticed the same. He said Deere changed manufacturers for these filters in 2024, and you're just seeing the new ones push through the system as the old are flushed out of stock. Same spec's, just slight differences in canning.

The only frustrating poing, whenever a supplier does this, is sometimes the filter socket-type wrenches you already bought to reach a difficult place no longer fit the new can.

I believe most of Deere's filters and fluids are made by contract manufacturers, to Deere spec's. I wouldn't be surprised if they solicit competing bids every few years, and then hop to a new CM when it's deemed the savings are worth the time, effort, and customer blowback that always comes with switching CM's on a consumer product.

 

[Runner]

I wasn't too terribly worried about it since it was obviously made to fit on the block the same and because it's as big as the ones used in my 4 cylinder cars.

Definitely did a double-take and re-checked the part number though. I (rightly or wrongly) like to give the new filter just a little extra twist with a filter wrench (or strap wrench) when installing, so had to go back to the tool box and get a smaller one.

Just as an aside - the reason I always give the new filter a little extra torquing after hand-tight is because "this one time" back in the 70's, I had an oil filter loosen up enough in some very cold weather to leak on me. I know hand-tight is supposed to be good enough, but I can't get the picture of that oil puddle on the driveway out of my mind.

 

[D&D]

Same as a Wix 51064 and fits quite few different things.

Part Applications List

 

[5030]

I never put additional torque / twist on any filter when tightening it up to the filter boss on anything.

All filter makers state plainly to apply the compatible fluid to the sealing gasket / O ring, screw it on until the sealing ring makes contact with the filter boss and then an additional 1/2 turn to seal it. No filter manufacturer recommends tightening them more than hand tight plus 1/2 turn that I know of.

 

[5030]

One thing I always do is I try to find or cross reference filters that have a larger capacity the a stock OEM filter for 2 reasons, One it increases oil capacity and 2 provides more filtration material. So long as the sealing ring is of correct dimension and thread count / pitch and there is adequate clearance to install a compatible larger volume filter, I always do. Prime example is our aur cooled 22KW Generac standby. Stock filter is one of those teacup filters but you can install an increased capacity WIX instead and that is exactly what I always do. The Generac don't hold a lot of oil in the first place, so increasing the capacity is always a good thing and clearance isn't an issue at all. In the case of filters, going bigger has no detractions.

 

[Runner]

All filter makers state plainly to apply the compatible fluid to the sealing gasket / O ring, screw it on until the sealing ring makes contact with the filter boss and then an additional 1/2 turn to seal it. No filter manufacturer recommends tightening them more than hand tight plus 1/2 turn that I know of.

I know, but I just can't help myself. Maybe I should see a therapist....

In the case of filters, going bigger has no detractions.

Couple of things bother me about this too, again, perhaps without reason but....
My 2520 takes exactly 4 qt of oil so I like to be able to just buy a gallon of Shell Rotella and be done with it, not having to try to go back and add more to bring it up to "full".

Also, I am leery of buying alternate oil filters because "this one time" I read that there can be differences in filters even though they appear to have the same specs, such as the bypass valves. So just to ease my mind, I like to stick with the original equipment filters.

I will note that, this time, I did have the gasket on my old hydro filter stick to the mating surface and come loose, so had to be sure to remove it separately before installing new. Not sure if that was due to my "extra torquing" last time, but could have been. Not a problem because I am also **** about checking that too.... but that was one of the very few times I've had that happen.

Edit: Hilarious that the word "****" was censored.

 

[WinterDeere]

No filter manufacturer recommends tightening them more than hand tight plus 1/2 turn that I know of.

If I recall correctly, Mopar OEM filters for SRT (6.4L and 6.2T) engines specify 1 turn beyond contact. I should remember, since I just did one maybe 3 weeks ago, but the instructions are printed right on the can so I don’t need to memorize, and there’ve been too many cars to commit any to memory.

I always use a wrench for the final half or full turn, after spinning on by hand to gasket contact. It’s easier for me to see and feel the rotation and snugness with a 3/8” ratchet to an end-drive wrench on the thing, than doing it by hand. The result is probably about the same, but I’d argue my way is easier!

 

[5030]

Never done that on any of my vehicles or equipment. I oil the gasket tighten the filter until I feel some resistance and then an additional 1/2 turn and that's it and I've never had one leak either. Not a clue about Mopar's. You cannot give me one.

This site has some strange censoring of common word for sure. Not even PG 13 in most cases, more like PG kindergarten

 

[5030]

I would be way more concerned with those engines eating camshafts and variable valve timing sprockets than anything else. Those engine are noted for having issues.

 

[WinterDeere]

I would be way more concerned with those engines eating camshafts and variable valve timing sprockets than anything else. Those engine are noted for having issues.

Which engines? The 6.4L's are bulletproof.

Some of the other guys here can speak better on the 6.2T's, but when you're pushing as much as 858 HP, expectations for reliability may be somewhat less than mom's Toyota Camry.

 

[wolc123]

I didn’t notice any difference in the oil filter, that I used on my 4120 this year, compared to last year. They were identical, bought from the same dealer (4 miles away) and bought and changed almost exactly one year apart.

One of my favorite things about that tractor, is how easy it is to do an oil and filter changes, compared to my other two tractors (both broken down now - Ford 8n and Farmall Cub with “no spark” issues).

The JD 4120 filter is always easy to remove and change without any tools. On the Ford, I’ve got to take the gas line off and rotate the sediment bulb, to change the oil filter. The Farnall is in a tough spot to get at also.

I also like the metal drain gutter that the JD has under the oil filter, such that it drains away from the engine block, during changes, right into the same catch bucket that I use for the pan plug drain, at the same time. Unlike the Ford and Farmall, where it drains right across the block, far from the oil pan drain plug.

The oil and filter change takes me 7 minutes on the JD and is much cleaner than the messy 1/2 hour jobs on the Ford or 15 minutes on the Farmall.

 

[WinterDeere]

I didn’t notice any difference in the oil filter, that I used on my 4120 this year, compared to last year.

Nice summary on the JD vs. Ford and Farmall process. But as noted previously, Deere has a lot of stock of the old filters, so it may be awhile until you see the new ones show up in your branch of the supply chain. Also, it's possible the new manufacturer's version of your filter is identical to the old, although most seem to have undergone slight exterior changes in canning.

 

[wolc123]

Nice summary on the JD vs. Ford and Farmall process. But as noted previously, Deere has a lot of stock of the old filters, so it may be awhile until you see the new ones show up in your branch of the supply chain. Also, it's possible the new manufacturer's version of your filter is identical to the old, although most seem to have undergone slight exterior changes in canning.

As long as it can be turned on and off easily by hand, there’s no big deal concerning the exterior canning. My dad’s Husqvarna 54” zero turn mower with Kohler 23 hp gas engine did have that issue though. Fortunately, I was able to get the old one off with big channel lock pliers.

 

[WinterDeere]

They make special channel lock pliers for gripping oil filters. I had never seen them until I had a swimming pool installed, and saw the installers using those pliers for (over) tightening PVC pipe unions. I bought a full set myself, which I'll use to loosen a union, but never tighten one. PVC pipe unions are another thing that's fine at hand-tight when the treads are lubed.

I use the old-skool strap wrench for loosening the oil filter on my zero-turn mower.

 

[Runner]

I have always used these HF filter pliers to loosen filters, but finally broke down and bought a full set of filter sockets this year. The reason I did this is because it seems the vehicles/equipment I've been acquiring lately have more difficult access to the filters.

https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-filter-pliers-61477.html

Now the problem is keeping track of which filter socket goes to which vehicle. Rather than try to read the number on the socket, I just label the socket with the vehicle/equipment with a paint pen.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have always used these HF filter pliers to loosen filters...

https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-filter-pliers-61477.html

Sane type I bought, but in 3 sizes for various unions/filters.

Now the problem is keeping track of which filter socket goes to which vehicle. Rather than try to read the number on the socket, I just label the socket with the vehicle/equipment with a paint pen.

Same. Paint marker, since used oil seems to make Sharpie notations go away.

I noticed one of the Wix filters for 5.7L Hemi required a different socket than the same filter bought previously, and assumed they just changed cans, the way Deere had done last year. But then the next Wix filter from the same supplier (Amazon) for the same engine went back to the old wrench size. It leaves me wondering if it's just a COVID response thing, such as Wix had to temporarily move filter manufacturing to a different facility for awhile, or if I got a counterfeit filter that one time.

 

[dbritt]

I asked the parts manager for my local Deere dealer about this last year, when I'd noticed the same. He said Deere changed manufacturers for these filters in 2024, and you're just seeing the new ones push through the system as the old are flushed out of stock. Same spec's, just slight differences in canning.

The only frustrating poing, whenever a supplier does this, is sometimes the filter socket-type wrenches you already bought to reach a difficult place no longer fit the new can.

I believe most of Deere's filters and fluids are made by contract manufacturers, to Deere spec's. I wouldn't be surprised if they solicit competing bids every few years, and then hop to a new CM when it's deemed the savings are worth the time, effort, and customer blowback that always comes with switching CM's on a consumer product.

I asked the parts manager for my local Deere dealer about this last year, when I'd noticed the same. He said Deere changed manufacturers for these filters in 2024, and you're just seeing the new ones push through the system as the old are flushed out of stock. Same spec's, just slight differences in canning.

The only frustrating poing, whenever a supplier does this, is sometimes the filter socket-type wrenches you already bought to reach a difficult place no longer fit the new can.

I believe most of Deere's filters and fluids are made by contract manufacturers, to Deere spec's. I wouldn't be surprised if they solicit competing bids every few years, and then hop to a new CM when it's deemed the savings are worth the time, effort, and customer blowback that always comes with switching CM's on a consumer product.

I'm sure Deere would be more than happy to sell you a new $100+ green filter wrench for that smaller filter, and I wouldn't be surprised if that was the whole purpose behind the change.