Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

[ETD66SS]

HIred a plumber for this. Asked about the clear primer he uses vs. purple, says he won't use purple.

 

[newbury]

Next big hurdle for me is the Natural Gas installation. I've already dug most of the trench and fully paid the invoice from the NG company, so I am hoping this locks me into the service even though this Natural Gas ban starts in 9 months.

Are you locked in?
The area I'm in sold Natural Gas installation circa 2000, I paid ~400. They stopped about 1,000 yards from me last year.
Their response "Sorry".
I had bought ~$1,000 of stuff to hookup to the line.

 

[EddieWalker]

HIred a plumber for this. Asked about the clear primer he uses vs. purple, says he won't use purple.

I just went to the Oatey website and saw that they have clear primer that does the same thing as the purple primer. I've never used it and wasn't aware of it. From what I've dealt with, Inspectors like to see the purple on the pipes. I guess it's different there.

 

[ETD66SS]

Are you locked in?
The area I'm in sold Natural Gas installation circa 2000, I paid ~400. They stopped about 1,000 yards from me last year.
Their response "Sorry".
I had bought ~$1,000 of stuff to hookup to the line.

There is natural gas at the road, and I already paid the gas company the full amount of the invoice to instsll the service. I have the trench dug but the weather is not going to cooperate for about another month. I'm hoping to have the service installed by July. But it will depend on the scheduling of the crew doing the work. Hopefully they don't hold me up. It's a mad scramble right now for gas installations because come Jan 1st 2026 NG new service installs are banned.

 

[ETD66SS]

I just went to the Oatey website and saw that they have clear primer that does the same thing as the purple primer. I've never used it and wasn't aware of it. From what I've dealt with, Inspectors like to see the purple on the pipes. I guess it's different there.

I guess it's who you know. If I did the job myself I would have had to use purple, but because the building inspector knows this plumber well, he does not require him to use purple.

 

[ETD66SS]

I think I am ready for the plumbing inspection. Might of backfilled a bit too much, but wanted to make sure nothing moved. Left the tops of the pipes exposed to the pitch can be checked.

 

[EddieWalker]

That is the cleanest drain line install that I've ever seen!!!

If I understand what's going on. This is for the living quarters that will be on the second floor. And you are getting this inspection done so you can pour concrete, but you will have to get another inspection when you run those lines?

 

[ETD66SS]

That is the cleanest drain line install that I've ever seen!!!

If I understand what's going on. This is for the living quarters that will be on the second floor. And you are getting this inspection done so you can pour concrete, but you will have to get another inspection when you run those lines?

Yes, this is just the under slab plumbing. Need to get this inspected so I can get the concrete going. Once the concrete is done then I can do the interior framing, then the rest of the plumbing and electrical can be finished.

 

[ETD66SS]

Found something else the Amish crew messed up:

They did not leave a 1/8" gap at the ends of the OSB subflooring. I assume especially with radiant floor heat I will need those gaps. So now I have to use a circular saw and create them I think.

Started laying out the walls:

The manlift is already super useful:

 

[EddieWalker]

Is there any sign of ridges forming were the sheet of plywood touches another sheet? I believe the gap is do minimize swelling when the plywood/osb gets wet. With a roof over your decking, and your decking remaining dry, I wonder if you need the gap.

 

[ETD66SS]

Is there any sign of ridges forming were the sheet of plywood touches another sheet? I believe the gap is do minimize swelling when the plywood/osb gets wet. With a roof over your decking, and your decking remaining dry, I wonder if you need the gap.

No, I see no evidence of ridges. The OSB never got wet and was stored inside then installed after the roof was installed.

My concern is causing damage to the finish flooring if the radiant heat + humidity make the panels expand.

 

[EddieWalker]

What will the finished floor be?

 

[ETD66SS]

What will the finished floor be?

Pretty much 50% tile, 50% hardwood flooring.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would wait until it's time to install the flooring before cutting expansion joints in your sheeting. Odds are very good that you won't need to do it. Odds are also good that by the time you get to it, the sheeting will need some attention from everyone working in there anyway, and the floor installers will take care of it.

 

[civilian]

Our tile in the kitchen is laid on top of cement board over 3/4" OSB. In the laundry room the tile is laid over "Detra" plastic grid material over the OSB. The plastic grid contains the electric wire for heating the floor. Don't know if the OSB has 1/8" gaps. I know the builder used a sledge hammer to get tight fits. Jon


and I know the floor got rained on, when roof ws not on yet.

 

[ETD66SS]

I would wait until it's time to install the flooring before cutting expansion joints in your sheeting. Odds are very good that you won't need to do it. Odds are also good that by the time you get to it, the sheeting will need some attention from everyone working in there anyway, and the floor installers will take care of it.

I was wondering if I should cut the seams before laying down any crossing wall plates.

Our tile in the kitchen is laid on top of cement board over 3/4" OSB. In the laundry room the tile is laid over "Detra" plastic grid material over the OSB. The plastic grid contains the electric wire for heating the floor. Don't know if the OSB has 1/8" gaps. I know the builder used a sledge hammer to get tight fits. Jon


and I know the floor got rained on, when roof ws not on yet.

I'm pretty sure the sledge hammer is used to seat the tounge & groove on the long edge of the OSB.

In any event, the OSB the Amish guys used has big lettereing and arrows telling the installers to leave a 1/8" gap at the edges, they could not seem to follow those directions right on the playwood, sigh.

 

[ETD66SS]

Worked on some 4" conduit today to be used in the future if I ever want to change/supplement my radiant heat system with an outdoor wood boiler or geothermal.

It will come up through the floor under the staircase.

 

[Carl_NH]

Will 2 - 1" lines fit inside 4" conduit? I see you have a second stub line coming out at 45* is that for electrical or the second line?

When is electrical coming in?

 

[ETD66SS]

Will 2 - 1" lines fit inside 4" conduit? I see you have a second stub line coming out at 45* is that for electrical or the second line?

When is electrical coming in?

So the incoming electric conduit was done a few weeks ago:

The 2" on the left is for 200amp service from my meter pedestal. The conduit on the right is for cable.

The 4" conduit would be for insulated wrapped (2) 1" pex lines, similar to this stuff: Insulated pex

This 4" conduit it a "just in case" I want to ever change the heat source from a NG water boiler to an outdoor wood boiler. I may never use this conduit, but easier to put it in now than busting through a concrete floor with heat tube in it.

What I did today was run 2" conduit from the main panel to where I will have a secondary panel on the other side of the shop. So I don't have to run so much steel conduit along the ceiling to power things on that side of the building. My plan is to have a 200amp bus bar pass through from one panel to the next, so I basically have a main panel with full 200amps on either side of the shop:

Probably will not pull the electric from the meter pedestal to the main panel until the electrician comes back to do the rest of his work.

 

[Carl_NH]

Very nice work and well thought out - and you have all the tools and machines to make it look easy. Its a lot of work working alone, doing conduit and backfilling.

Like the older iron you have the Ford 1920 with plow, the older Ford with land plane? and is that a JD BH or Case?