Older Stihl getting hard to start

[Boeing]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

 

[KS KIOTI]

Time for a good inspection. May need a new fuel filter, lines in the tank shouldn’t be “stretchy”. Carb probably due for a cleaning and diaphragm check. Also, give the air filter a good once over and cleaning. Start with the basics.

It’s always time for a new saw

 

[lman]

My Stihl had a crack in the fuel line a few years ago. It was acting similar to yours. My saw is much older than yours though.

 

[ArtMech]

I recently had similar symptoms with a Husqvarna 359. The air filter had not been replaced. I replaced it and it came back to life like when I bought it.

 

[Steve1300]

My Stihl machines are old as well, and I used to use ethanol gas. Replaced a lot of fuel filters to get them running. Air filters need replacing sometimes, too. When I don't take care of those items, they get difficult to start. I lately ordered a new carb kit for a powerhead and was surprised at how cheaply and how easy it is to replace. YouTube is handy.

 

[Hay Dude]

Have you replaced the spark plug?
Plugs should be replaced regularly and can cause all kinds of problems with starting and running.

 

[WinterDeere]

It's usually easiest to just replace the carb, and the new carb kits usually come with lines, fuel pickup filter, and any applicable primer bulb, etc. I've done at least 3 carburetors on my various Stihl's over the last 15 years.

The failure mode, at least those on the BG-56 blowers (I have two of those), is that the carb starts leaking fuel straight thru to the cylinder, causing it to partially hydro-lock while trying to start the thing. Forcing it can cause damage to the starter mechanism, so you do want to address it.

Easy way to debug is if you see it blowing fuel after a successful start, or just remove spark plug and see if it spits fuel on a quick pull.

And yes... you can rebuild the carburetors, if you have more time than money. But they're so damn cheap and tedious, I wouldn't ever bother, unless the carb for your saw is NLA.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I had a couple of old saws that became hard starters. I had good results switching from ethanol gas to Tru Fuel. I start the old saws with the synthetic fuel and once warmed up, switch to ethanol free 93 octane gas. Before storing, I switch back to synthetic fuel.

It's worked well in my old Craftsman, and Husky saws.

 

[Hay Dude]

I stopped with mix almost completely. I only run Trufuel in the newer saws. I still run mix in weed wackers.

 

[bdhsfz6]

When I bought my Husqvarna 460 Rancher saw last year, there was an offer from the manufacturer to extend the warranty by one year if I purchased 4 quarts of their brand of synthetic fuel mix.

I guess it was like an extended warranty in a way, but I use synthetic fuel anyway so I took the offer.

 

[RayIN]

Storing any 2-cycle engine with today's ethanol-mix fuel in the system is problematic at best.
I empty the tank then run the engine dry. Tru-fuel is best, even though more expensive.
A local gas station has ethanol-free fuel for $6/gallon___, no_ thanks anyway.
I have a portable generator that always ran great; forgot to empty the tank and drain carb. Now the carb needs replaced and all the fuel line are crumbling off.

 

[Hay Dude]

Store your equipment with ethanol shield, not stabil.

 

[WinterDeere]

I run 93 octane pump gas (E10?), and have had zero issues with any fuel lines on any of my saws. I have replaced two carburetors on BG-56 blowers over 15 years, which seems to be par for the course on that model, and once on crappy McCullough weedwacker, but never any of my Stihl or Husky saws.

I’m sure non-ethanol gas is at least theoretically better in many ways, but I’ve never had any issue with pump gas in any of my saws. I usually fill them in the fall, use them regularly October thru March, then drain, run them dry, and shelf them for the summer.

 

[5030]

Better yet, just store all your equipment with synthetic gas in them. I use Echo Red Armor, 50-1 in everything including my over wintering gas powered equipment other than chainsaws. I drain the e-gas out and put it in the vehicles and replace it with Red Armor and in the spring they start right up no issue. No gunked up carbs or flabby fuel lines either and if you need chainsaw parts, I recommend 'Sawzilla'. They specialize in parts for older chainsaws.

 

[5030]

I run 93 octane pump gas (E10?), and have had zero issues with any fuel lines on any of my saws. I have replaced two carburetors on BG-56 blowers over 15 years, which seems to be par for the course on that model, and once on crappy McCullough weedwacker, but never any of my Stihl or Husky saws.

I’m sure non-ethanol gas is at least theoretically better in many ways, but I’ve never had any issue with pump gas in any of my saws. I usually fill them in the fall, use them regularly October thru March, then drain, run them dry, and shelf them for the summer.

You will at some point, bank on it....

 

[5030]

Store your equipment with ethanol shield, not stabil.

Stabil is stinky red junk. Marine Stabil isn't however.

 

[WinterDeere]

You will at some point, bank on it....

Yeah, I suspect you’re right. But when a new carburetor costs little more than just ONE gallon of canned fuel, let alone the hundreds of gallons of fuel I’ve burned through, I’m still miles ahead when I do!

 

[Dyer retired]

My neighbor had a 20 year old Stihl chainsaw that was getting harder and harder to start. If the saw had been running for 10 minutes or so and then shut off to refuel, it was impossible to start until it had cooled off. We rebuilt his carb, installed a new plug, and he always burned fresh gas. Still no luck! I looked at the coil and noticed the gap between the contacts and flywheel looked excessive. The coil was not testing well, so I put a new coil in and gapped it correctly. The saw now starts like new and restarts with one pull once warmed up.

 

[etpm]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

I have the same saw that's about the same age. It too got harder to start. I finally tried Seafoam in the tank. I had little hope but it fixed the hard starting problem. After a couple weeks it started to get hard to start again and I used more Seafoam and the second use seems to have fixed the problem for good. It has been easy starting for the last year or so. BTW, I bought the saw because I have bone on bone joints in both wrists and the easy start feature makes life much easier, way less pain when pulling the starter cord.
Eric

 

[dodge man]

I’ll jump on the “spark plug” bandwagon. Start with the cheap stuff.